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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, lets get the fact that i'm a newbster out of the way first. I would be posting on the f150 forums but I like the content I see here..its not full-bore custom fab like pirate, and not useless like the F150 forums..very thorough writeups and not much drama, I like it.

I just bought an '88 F150 4.9 5 speed 4x4 shortbed.(tophat style hubs) not bad for $500..the body is rough but I didn't give a shit after I saw the frame..for some reason the underside of this thing is in perfect shape..Has a new clutch and slave cylinder, Rough Country 1.5" leveling springs with 6 Rough Country Nitro 9000 shocks, Hella's.

It needs- new balljoints, a new driver side outer U joint, i'm guessing wheel bearings and other bushings and what not..it has 267,000 miles.

I want to do the D50 Stub shaft swap while everything is apart, but i'm a little unclear on whether you need to remove the third member to do this swap? does that OEM(d44) stub shaft have a c clip inside the 3rd member? or is it clipless?

I am aware there are different torque specs for the different style hubs..anyone know the torque specs and procedures for my spindle nut?

Anyone have any info on welding U joint caps?

I plan on replacing my ball joints with OEM dana/spicer non-greasable balljoints, I'm not sure what U joints to get for my outers, though? I'm guessing non-greasable u joints are stronger, right? I do tend to get carried away when off-roading..so keep that in mind.

The truck..its not pretty but it gets used..
 

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shibby
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Yes, the third member must be dropped to take off the c-clip on the D44 passenger side shaft.

Why are you welding u-joint caps?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, because my driver side front spit out a cap, and from what I read most of the failure on a D44 isn't from shaft breakage, its from U-joints breaking and or popping ujoint caps out, and in a wheel joint it can literally rip a ball joint out and grenade the whole knuckle.. I'm just looking for some 1st hand experience on it and maybe some tips.
 

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Cleaning the trails
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Well, because my driver side front spit out a cap, and from what I read most of the failure on a D44 isn't from shaft breakage, its from U-joints breaking and or popping ujoint caps out, and in a wheel joint it can literally rip a ball joint out and grenade the whole knuckle.. I'm just looking for some 1st hand experience on it and maybe some tips.
See post three
 

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Cleaning the trails
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Similar to this? I know its from a ranger D35TTB..but i'm assuming its the same deal..Hmm..
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May06/dana35_ujoint_snapring.htm


Edit: thanks for the link
That is what I did with the C Clips. I did spit a cap, but fortunatelly caught it before it completely destroyed everything. Did have to replace the axle.$20 at the JY. When I bought my U Joints, the guy gave me the clips. Haven't had a chance to test it yet, but will this weekend...
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
buy these:





D50 slipshaft upgrade on top:


make sure you have cleareance on your ttb arm. I had to grind mind just a little to be sure.


You also will need the spring in the slipshaft, and might want to tack weld the end cap on the yoke. No need to weld the caps though, external retention.
 

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Cleaning the trails
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931 Posts
buy these:

]

D50 slipshaft upgrade on top:


make sure you have cleareance on your ttb arm. I had to grind mind just a little to be sure.

You also will need the spring in the slipshaft, and might want to tack weld the end cap on the yoke.


All the issues I had were at the spindle. Never had a problem on the D44 stub shaft, but it will most likey go next...
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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All the issues I had were at the spindle. Never had a problem on the D44 stub shaft, but it will most likey go next...
all the outer stuff is easier to get to as well. If you have not put a locker in the front yet, you still are C clipped. It's bad enough to deal with outer joints, so this one should be as strong and new as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the info. How come the Ujoints in those pics have two different part numbers? I was planning on getting those 760X's on BGY. And thats cool that the d50 stub shaft has external clips on it..what size u-joint is that?(lol..nevermind..DURP..799 is for the d50 shaft.)

Anything that can help me not break parts (and help make removing broken parts on the trail easier like the spring trick) without dumping a bunch of money into the TTB will help..I plan on getting extra top hat lockouts and axle shafts to carry with me on the trail in case I grenade them.
 

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Cleaning the trails
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all the outer stuff is easier to get to as well. If you have not put a locker in the front yet, you still are C clipped. It's bad enough to deal with outer joints, so this one should be as strong and new as possible.
I've got an Aussie up front and running 4:10's on 33's. I have not come across a D50 stubshaft yet. The two chunks I got from the JY were from f-250's but with the D44 stubshaft. I did the eleimnate the C CLip and used the spring with the welded cap..
 

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I installed an Aussie in the front of my truck a couple weeks ago...I have popped the yoke cap twice now. Any recommendations for prepping that weld? Cap is long gone, We welded a heavy duty washer in where the cap used to be, but the welds broke.

Also, any hints on the spring size you guys used? Does it need to be pretty stiff? How big (tall) is your spring fully compressed? Just looking for more information so I can fix this once and for all.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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It does not need to be very stiff. Basically what I think works best is that when you are reassembling the spindle after having put the shafts back in, you should just begin to feel slight resistance when the spindle is fully seated (the resistance is the spring pushing the shaft out against the spindle back). If there is a ton of resistance then as you tighten the spindle nuts your just putting the spring force against the other side, the cap.

I'll go find a pic of the little spring I used for some time, and never had the little tack welds pop....

Edit:

 

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It does not need to be very stiff. Basically what I think works best is that when you are reassembling the spindle after having put the shafts back in, you should just begin to feel slight resistance when the spindle is fully seated (the resistance is the spring pushing the shaft out against the spindle back). If there is a ton of resistance then as you tighten the spindle nuts your just putting the spring force against the other side, the cap.

I'll go find a pic of the little spring I used for some time, and never had the little tack welds pop....

Edit:

Good stuff. Hoping to put it all back together today after work...third time's the charm, right?
 
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