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Discussion Starter #1
Before you ask I have read every D50 thread I can find.

I have been having trouble getting my passenger side axle into the stub shaft (slip joint) far enough for the spindle to bolt on. The front third member is actually a D50. I just bolted it into my 1984 TTB housing and I am trying to use my D44 axles.

I can get the spindles pulled on with the bolts, but it puts a lot of drag on the axles. There is little free play in and out, and the axles are VERY hard to turn. I don't know if this has an effect, but it is just a rolling chasis right now. So there is no weight on the suspension or axles.

What is going on? Do the axles sit further out in the D50 member than in the D44 member? How much free play (in and out movement) should I have? I only have about 1/16 of an inch on each side.

Somthing is different, but what.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I just read my post and it even confused me. Lets try again...

I bolted a D50 center section into my TTB housing because it was free and had the gear ratio I was Looking for. I figured it would be easy because it bolts right on to my beam, and uses the same spline axles.

So I bolted in the center section put in my axles and tried to bolt on the spindles. The axles are sticking out to far. It is as if they don't seat far enough into the D50. I even tried beating them. I was able to suck the spindles in by tightning the bolts, but they are really crammed in there now. I can hardly turn them.

The D50 is either a little different internally, or F250 axles are actually shorter, or the holes in the drop brackets from my lift are both a little off. Or it is because it is just a rolling chasis and their is no weight on the suspension or axles.

What do you think???
 

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Wrong forum. This is for write-ups of your installs with step by step instructions and pics.

You would have better luck in one of the repair forums.
 

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So you used the D44 axles or the D50?

:scratchhe

EDIT: Nevermind I just re-read it and see that you are. Are you using the D50 stub-shaft or the D44? Andy351 did a write-up about this swap but he used the D50 stub and had ZERO probs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wrong forum. This is for write-ups of your installs with step by step instructions and pics.

You would have better luck in one of the repair forums.
Sorry, I feel pretty stupid for posting in the wrong forum, I was in a hurry and well...:duh

I used the D50 third member, everything else (axles, stubshaft) was from the D44. I did read the writeup by Andy351 already. He only used the stub shaft from the D50.

I have been told the D50 uses a different ring, pinion, and carrier. I'm thinking the axles sit in there a little different. I will find out for sure tomorrow. I am going remove the D50, install both axles, and measure end to end. Then I will put the same axles in the D44 and measure end to end. In theory, they should be the same length. But then I'll still have to figure out WTF is going on.

Dose any one know off hand,if you push and pull on the axle piece that sticks out through the spindle, how much should it move. Like I said, these ones don't move at all, and I think there should be some freeplay to account for the suspension moving up and down.
 

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Back when I was running a TTB I had a D50 stub shaft installed on the D44 center section. If you have the D50 stub you should use it instead of the D44 stub. As for the other problem, it sounds like the D50 carrier may be just a bit wider than the D44 carrier. Maybe you could cut a little, like maybe 1/4", off the end of each D44 shaft to make it fit? Frankly most people only use the D50 stub, not the third member. In any case, you'll need to make sure that the u-joint is lined up with the ball joints such that they all pivot on the same plane, otherwise it'll bind up the steering.
 

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1996 Bronco 5.0/E4OD/BW1356
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I am running a D50 center section with 4.56 gears and a Spicer powerlok. I am using D44 TTB shafts without a single issue - I am also using the D50 stubshaft. There should be not issues with using the D50 center section. I am also running the JBG upgraded outers without an issue. Dont forget to weld the cap on the back of the D50 stub and find a spring that will put pressure on the shaft to keep everything connected properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am glad to hear that it is working for other people. I pulled the D50 earlier today. When I get help later, I will measuer both end to end.

There is definately somthing wrong. I had to take the spindle seals that sit on the axle (against the U-Joint) off. Otherwise the spindle was a good 1/2 inch away from the knuckle.

The drop brackets I used for my lift could have been drilled 1/2 off at the factory. But I think it is odd that both would be off. I am going to install the D44, and see what kind of play I have then. If I have the same problem, then will know it is not the 3rd member. My other thought is that the D50 stub is actually a little shorter. The passenger side (stub side) gives me the most issues.
 

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I am glad to hear that it is working for other people. I pulled the D50 earlier today. When I get help later, I will measuer both end to end.

There is definately somthing wrong. I had to take the spindle seals that sit on the axle (against the U-Joint) off. Otherwise the spindle was a good 1/2 inch away from the knuckle.

The drop brackets I used for my lift could have been drilled 1/2 off at the factory. But I think it is odd that both would be off. I am going to install the D44, and see what kind of play I have then. If I have the same problem, then will know it is not the 3rd member. My other thought is that the D50 stub is actually a little shorter. The passenger side (stub side) gives me the most issues.
The last time I put my front end together I noticed that the shaft stuck out further on the passanger side - it was very hard to tighten down the spindle nuts because the hub socket was bottoming out - that had never happened before. I have blown up 3 or 4 sets of shafts up front without any issues, I've always had it go together with ease. The D50 and D44 3rd members have got to be the exact same size - the front bolt pattern lines up as well as the side mount bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The housings look to be identical and all of the bolts holes are exact. But somthing is still making my passenger axle stick out farther. It is out so far, that if I do not remove one of the seals, I can not even get a nut on the spindle studs.

I checked the sleeve on the stub shaft and it is clean. The only reason I went with the D50 is because it had a 4.10 ratio, and I was having trouble finding a D44 with that ratio. I did not think it would fight me this much:whiteflag
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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Heres what i think. First up, the third members are interchangeable, so thats not the problem. What i think the problem is, is that you are using the D44 shafts for the center ujoint. I think this is where your problem is, because the inner D44 shaft is a tad longer so that the c-clip will fit onto it once its installed into the diff, but the D50's stub shaft is externally retained. My guess is the shaft is sliding so far into the diff its hitting something, and not letting the shafts go far enough over to get the spindle on. id swap over to the D50 stubs in the center, and id bet that fixes it. It makes sense that its only a problem on the passenger side since thats the only side with the c-clip.
 

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I think Rep is correct - use the D50 stub, it is WAY bigger to boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Y'all are right...

Just measured everything. The D50 Stubshaft is 15" as compared to the 15.5" D44 stubshaft.

Problem solved:thumbup
 
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