Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
scrounger extrordinaire
Joined
·
4,774 Posts
looks pretty beefy, should work fine. looks like a simple way to get steering angles to stay right. i am going to have to do some weirdness to get my high cross over steering on my d60. just a thought, if your going to weld on a boss like that, why not keep the ford tie rod just to cut down on work. plus there is always the stock steering rods with the eye for attching the drag link to the tie rod, but then you would have to get your rods shortened.
 

·
TTB Hater of course
Joined
·
3,099 Posts
What are you trying to accomplish exactly?

How is that gonna help clear the leaf? That puts the drag link higher than stock F350 steering
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
Yeah, I can't even raise the tie rod from under the knuckle without hitting the spring. I don't see that thing clearing any easier. I'm not sure why it's built like it is, either... seems like you were close to being able to put the drag link end in double shear, but boxed the mount and bolted it in single shear instead....?

Just get yourself a high steer arm for the pass side and be done with it.
 

·
Lurker
Joined
·
617 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I realize that the tie rod will be under the knuckle b/c of the clearance with the spring. That drag link triangle mount could possible go outside the spring, very close to the pass. side heim. It would have to be pretty tall though and it doesn't seem too safe. OR it could go closer in, inside the spring. It will increase the drag link angle, but with a dropped pitman arm, it might be OK.

Using this type of mount would allow me to use beefy DOM and heims as opposed to the stock stuff.

It is a ball joint axle, so I can not jsut buy a steering arm. The Dynatrac knuckles are $329 a peice and the ORU or $950
 

·
Lurker
Joined
·
617 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
seboh said:
I'm not sure why it's built like it is, either... seems like you were close to being able to put the drag link end in double shear, but boxed the mount and bolted it in single shear instead....?[

I do not understand that either
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
Balljoints? Well, then.... you're fawked. :D

Rather than boxing the bracket in completely, weld two tabs to the tie rod -- one on either side, 1/4" thick min., sticking straight up. Weld another piece perpendicular to the first two, on the passenger side of the two brackets you just attached. Basically, you want to build a box that's open to the top and to the driver's side. Slip your SRE inside (should be a snug fit with misalignment bushings installed), and run a bolt through the two plates and the SRE.

The SRE is captured that way, so the ball can't come out of the housing when it fails (and it will fail), and the bolt is in double shear... twice as strong.

In all honesty, I'd build links that used a DOM bar threaded for stock-type TREs. Take a look around and see if you can find a LH thread Ford 1-ton end.
 

·
Lurker
Joined
·
617 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Why stock TREs instead of heim joints?

What kind of bolt would I use with a heim?

Let me think out loud here for second as I am stupid when it comes to steering. I have been researching it though.

DOM is a solid piece of round metal. In order to put TREs or heim joints on the ends of the DOM, the ends of the DOM need to be:
A) drilled out to a size just below the diameter of yoru TRE or heim, then taped to make threads. Then, thread the heim or TRE into the DOM w/ a jam nut.
or...
B)drilled out to a size of a threaded insert, which is then pressed in and then welded to the DOM. Followd up with the TRE or heim and jam nut.


Correct so far?

These are the heims I was looking out. I was planning for the 3/4"
JEGS QA1 Heims

Thanks Seboh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
Yep... longevity issues and cost. I'm running SREs on mine, but they're pretty damn good ones, and I accept that I'll probably have to replace them sooner or later. I might have gone with Chevy TREs and full high steer given a little more time, but I was looking for a package deal at the time, and SREs gave me the most flexibility.

As for the bolts, 3/4" fine thread gr 8, minimum.

And yeah, what you said about tapping/sleeving the tube is right, too. Scott at Rockstomper can make you a link if you need one, too. They're about $200 with Chevy ends... but I imagine he can build you whatever you need.
 

·
TTB Hater of course
Joined
·
3,099 Posts
Swamp Donkey said:
DOM is a solid piece of round metal. In order to put TREs or heim joints on the ends of the DOM, the ends of the DOM need to be:

B)drilled out to a size of a threaded insert, which is then pressed in and then welded to the DOM. Followd up with the TRE or heim and jam nut.
DOM is just Drawn Over Mandrel. It's not rolled and then welded so it doesn't have a seam, just makes it stronger (altho I once read somewhere DOM does technically have a seam, can't remember now)

As for the threaded inserts, they don't usually press in, they just slide it. Then weld around the round surface, and do plug welds if you choose. I got my threaded inserts from Avalanche, but they're pricey. This is what I used to build my anti-wrap bar.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
That's why most guys are going with Chevy ends. They're about $25/ea. I'm not sure how they'll work with leaves, tho. Problem is, you'll have to retaper for the Chevies, and that usually means going over-knuckle with the links....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,463 Posts
Swamp Donkey said:
Moog tie rod ends....$66 a piece :mad: That is was O'Reillys just quoted me.
my moog last me one mounth and it was bent stock ford lasted me over a year and now I got one custom made chrome moly with spicer tie rod ends on both sides
 

·
my precioussssssss
Joined
·
877 Posts
I was looking at some prices on the bulletproof site.

$75.00 for a bullet proof TRE, Ouch!
but they give a lifetime warranty and claim that they should last at least 10 years. Hmmm, Might be worth it though. Just think, you would never need to wory about your TRE's again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
High steer arms are the ticket. It'd be tough getting them on a stock 44 knuckle. A set of 44HD knuckles and a pair of high steer arms from any of the folks that make them. You'd be moving all the steering components out and up away from any suspension parts.

There's always a set of the 44HD knuckles on Ebay. I've been getting everything I need from Complete Off-road.

Bob K.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
nwbronco said:
It'd be tough getting them on a stock 44 knuckle.
We're talking about D60s. There are high steer arm options for the ball joint D60s, but it takes new knuckles (or heavily machined stock parts) plus the cost of the arms and shipping for the whole mess. I don't remember the cost off-hand, but I remember that it was at least enough $$$ to make selling the ball joint axle and swapping in a "real" D60 worthwhile.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top