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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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Well, Pepe' if you haven't ever been zapped by 30,000V or more if it's an aftermarket coil you are in for a real treat.
That used to be my method. Get my brother set up with whatever screwdriver stuck in the wire rig we could come up with to check for spark. I'd crank the engine. If he jumped we knew it had spark. If he jumped & yelled we knew it was a good hot spark. 😁
 

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i use a test light to check for spark, ground the test light(not a led one) to battery or frame /engine block and with engine running probe each spark plug wire boot at coil end and that will kill spark on that cylinder and not curl you short hairs!
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter #205
What size exhaust pipe? 2", 2.25", 2.5"??
Like this?

Walker Universal Ball Flanges 41724

I use to get those at the local auto parts stores..
2.25". These are the ones, I think: Walker Universal Ball Flanges 41725

Now I understand why I didn't find one. Too specific/narrow in my search. I'll call the local stores tomorrow. Pretty sure somebody must have a set or be able to get one as quickly as I could.

I was walking around it tonight, after cleaning up. I'm seriously considering pulling the engine to find/fix the oil leak, possible to the r.m.s. w/sleeve repair whether that's an issue or not... and fixing the y-pipe tips while the engine is out of the way. It won't be a comfortable repair to do like that... but I shouldn't have to cut the exhaust pipe and sleeve it back together either. Hmmm... more work, lots.
 
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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter #206
Took a few calls but I was finally able to find the flanges I need through O'Rielly's. They've got them on order and should be in store tomorrow. Once I verify they are what I need... I guess I'll drain the coolant and pull the engine again.
 
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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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... Once I verify they are what I need... I guess I'll drain the coolant and pull the engine again.


WHY???? Drop the exhaust, cut the ends, attach the flanges to the manifold. tack them together and make your repair.
I don't think you need to pull the engine as i don't think your rear main and sleeve is the issue if you installed them correctly.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter #208
I wanted too do the sleeve RMS fix but Dad wasn't down, so I never touched it. At the time, I thought it would be preventative but being unable to find another source for the oil leak now, I don't know. When I pulled the engine, it had been slowly leaking oil from lots of places. If the RMS was leaking, Dad wouldn't have even known or cared. The only way to really find out is to run it, pull it, inspect it, find the leak and fix it.
Now, I know the oil isn't coming out of the back of the intake manifold. I know it's not coming out at the rear of the valve covers. That leaves 2 options. 1. I didn't get the heads bolted on properly and it's leaking out the rear of one of the heads or 2. it's coming out of the rear main seal. Either way... we know the RMS is a fail point, sooner or later.

With the engine out, I should be able to fix the flanges easily in place. Otherwise, I have to cut it, pull it, fix it... hopefully get the flanges on exactly where they're needed, then re-install it with a sleeve, then take it to a shop and have that welded by someone much better than I.

Never-minding the considerable oil leak, how do I "drop the exhaust" when it goes over the tranny support and t-case protection plate and over the rear axle? By the time the y-pipe joins up, it's literally at the edge of the tranny support brace and there's only a few inches where that stops and the t-case cover plate starts. The thing will only move so far forward to pull before it hits the oil pan and if it won't drop and pull out by then, I'll have cut the exhaust up for nothing.

edit: doh! I just realized... I can unbolt the tranny support and hold it up with a jack or a board/block/whatev and the t-case cover, I suppose and then work the exhaust out over the axle? Unknown territory for me.

It's not like I WANT to do this shit over and over again.
 

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man thats a bitch. When I built my motor 5 or 6 years ago (Damn I cant believe its been that long), I started with a long block. I had never done any major engine stuff before that time so everything I did was a first for me. After installing it and driving it a bit I took it in to the mechanic to do an oil change and cut open the oil filter to check for metal. In the process we noticed that I still had an oil leak. It was coming from the back joint of the heads. It was plainly visible where it was coming from. Directly below the Crossover emissions pipe. Upon inspecting the heads the mechanic pointed out that whoever built the long block put in USED head bolts. ****! The leak wasnt bad. Just a trickle, so I left it. Its never been addressed and the leak is negligible. Im not sure if its still leaking but I assume it is. I have only put maybe 25k miles in the last 5 or 6 years. It sucks when someone doesnt do their job. I didnt know at the time. If I had, I would have put new ARP bolts in. Its one of the many lessons I learned from building that motor.
 

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I doubt it is a head leaking oil. Not saying it isn't possible but it is rare for a head to leak unless its coolant.. They have no pressurized oil flow in them, only gravity flow to return from the rockers.

Are you seeing oil on the floor or noticing a loss in the engine meaning like your burning oil?
 

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If it is the RMS then you should see the oil around the trans inspection hole. It can almost look like it is coming from the trans but the fluid won't be red.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter #212
man thats a bitch. When I built my motor 5 or 6 years ago (Damn I cant believe its been that long), I started with a long block. I had never done any major engine stuff before that time so everything I did was a first for me. After installing it and driving it a bit I took it in to the mechanic to do an oil change and cut open the oil filter to check for metal. In the process we noticed that I still had an oil leak. It was coming from the back joint of the heads. It was plainly visible where it was coming from. Directly below the Crossover emissions pipe. Upon inspecting the heads the mechanic pointed out that whoever built the long block put in USED head bolts. ****! The leak wasnt bad. Just a trickle, so I left it. Its never been addressed and the leak is negligible. Im not sure if its still leaking but I assume it is. I have only put maybe 25k miles in the last 5 or 6 years. It sucks when someone doesnt do their job. I didnt know at the time. If I had, I would have put new ARP bolts in. Its one of the many lessons I learned from building that motor.
That could be it. I inspected and cleaned the old bolts and did re-use them. They were re-secured to torq spec in 3 steps, moving up and down, inside to the out... but it's entirely possible that they were too used to be re-used.

I doubt it is a head leaking oil. Not saying it isn't possible but it is rare for a head to leak unless its coolant.. They have no pressurized oil flow in them, only gravity flow to return from the rockers.
OK, good. I was hoping someone would correct me if that was less likely than a coolant leak, which I've seen no signs of.

Are you seeing oil on the floor or noticing a loss in the engine meaning like your burning oil?
I am seeing a small puddle on the floor. I've cleaned it up a few times, even put a bowl under it but the wind is blowing that stuff around (leaving the door bottom up to help with the summer heat). This last puddle is around 3" x 4" overnight after running the engine a few times, stop and start, for just a few minutes, 4 or 5 times to check the exhaust leak.

If it is the RMS then you should see the oil around the trans inspection hole. It can almost look like it is coming from the trans but the fluid won't be red.
Yep. That is exactly what it looks like and where it's coming from. Said it early on. The only reason I'm not dead set that it is, is because there were no obvious signs of leakage there when I had the engine out and it's more fluid than I would have expected from an RMS leak.

I was thinking maybe I should get that glowing oil additive and glow light stuff to see if it's anything BUT the rms. I'm just not sure I want to run it for that long without an exhaust hooked up to the manifolds.
 

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Stupid question did you try to go back and resnug the oil pan? Could be the pan leaking and if it wont snug up you can drop it and replace it without pulling the trans.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter #214
I have not but only because I was meticulous with that damn pan while it was upside down on the stand. I've seen no sign of oil on the pan itself at the rear. I can try to cinch it down more but I think I used cork gaskets and a thin but solid bead of RTV (I did on the valve covers) so squishing it beyond torq spec might make it worse or make a problem where there was none. I also was careful to fill the dip edges around the crank housing bulge.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter #215
So... here she was, all snug as a bug in a rug, with an mysterious oil leak and exhaust in need of flange replacement.



Let's get a good look at one of 2 reasons I'm forced to pull this bitch back out.



Now I obviously can't say for sure, until I get it out and get a good look at where there actually is oil... but I'll be dipped in honey and guts and hung over a hogs trough before I'll consider that a "job well done". I still couldn't find any sign of oil from anything I took apart and sealed back together. Not tooting my own horn, I know better. Just nothing obvious at this point. Valve covers and Oil pan both sealed with cork gaskets and looking a-ok, so far. 😕

On a related note... I got the flange repair sleeves. I don't know what they were actually designed for but it sure as hell wasn't the Ford Y-pipe. The Y-pipe on the 400 (probably the 351W too) turns up to meet the exhaust manifolds so close to the flange, I'm going to have to cut the damn things shorter and butt-weld them in place, rather than just slip them over and weld 'em on... of course. If I don't, I'll end up with the crossover pipe sticking at least 4" - 5" lower than oem. 🤬

I still need to find and order the microsleeve and gasket for the 400 rear main seal. At this point, I should probably just replace it now whether it's the actual problem or not. I hope it is, now.

This afternoon, I tore everything back off and disconnected everything else. Tomorrow I'll roll out of bed, check this thread, call the old man and go out there, air-down the tires, chain up the engine and pull it out... again. Yipee!
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Not for nothing, but wouldn't you be better off pulling the transmission if you think it's the rear main?
 
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@BikerPepe`

I seriously doubt it's the head bolts. I've never seen a failure on a street driven engine that was caused by reusing head bolts. Torque to yield bolts are common NOW - but that hasn't been the case for that long. Torque to yield essentially means once the fastener reaches its clamp load - when you remove that clamp load the bolt is supposed to be replaced.

Maybe @cobrajoe can chime in since he has A LOT more experience with Ford engines that I do - but I've never personally witnessed an IRON cylinder head leaking oil where it meets an IRON block. Not saying it can't happen - but I've never witnessed it and that includes my formative years spending most of my waking hours in a shop that rebuilt engines as their primary focus.

If the head bolts are in good shape with no major corrosion or messed up threads - there is no reason not to reuse them. If you want piece of mind you can buy stock replacement head bolts for cheap (Fel Pro sells them). I replaced them on the 302 in the 95 when I went through it because A. I was already ordering from RockAuto and they were cheap and B. the OEM head bolts had several that were boogered up pretty good.

As for the oil pan bolts - It couldn't hurt to take a small 1/4 ratchet (this greatly limits how much torque you can put on a bolt) and see if you can "Snug" up the oil pan bolts. You should know right away if they are loose.

Going by torque specs are great - but there are a lot of factors with torque specifications. That's the main reason I clean up threads in every hole on an engine that seals to parts together, and the bolts as well if I'm reusing them. Certain locations / specs call for the bolt having a light coat of oil for lubricant. Thing is - torque specs - on a head bolt for example - are greatly effected by friction more than anything else. Hell, I bet it wouldn't take 10 ft/lbs of torque to properly clamp a cylinder head to block if it wasn't for friction. And any damage to threads or bolts add more friction.

If it's not leaking from the valve covers, the intake manifold etc - there are only so many places it could be leaking from.

Good luck.
 

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Yo BikerPepe`,
Any chance you can borrow a kit with oil trace dye & ultraviolet (UV) light?
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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Based off the picture of the trans/oil pan, I am pretty confident in saying rear main. The reason I say this is because if it was from the top of the motor or the oil pan you would have evidence on the dust cover for the torque converter. It looks like it is coming from your RMS, following the metal to its lowest point (bottom of TC) then dripping out between the bellhousing and dust cover.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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I'm trying to think of anything else that could be putting oil back there.

There's the cam freeze plug. I think it's unlikely, but if you're in there to get to the rms, you might as well take a look.

Isn't there an oil passage plug at the top rear of the block? It seems like there is either a plug or an oil pressure sending unit there. But you would have caught a leak there in your valve cover & manifold check.

A leak from the trans or torque converter would normally be a red color, but dirty/burnt trans fluid can look more like oil. Especially if it picks up some dirt along the way. You might want to check the color of the atf on the dipstick. I've also used a paper towel laid flat on a clean board to check the color of a drip when it was hard to tell. I think that spot was brown in the middle, but the edges showed red.
 
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