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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter · #281 ·
Appreciate it. At this point, if it gets thrown back together... I'd like to get a fresh set or 2, just to have around. I've got Dad & lil' Lady's '78's with 400's, one spare on an engine stand and another I picked up for parts after learning about the block issue. Having a few sets around for future needs or after this one fails again (if) would be great.
 

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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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3,359 Posts
Appreciate it. At this point, if it gets thrown back together... I'd like to get a fresh set or 2, just to have around. I've got Dad & lil' Lady's '78's with 400's, one spare on an engine stand and another I picked up for parts after learning about the block issue. Having a few sets around for future needs or after this one fails again (if) would be great.
He said he doesn't have access to factory replacement type bolts. He said his supplier only supplies bolts if they are recommend to be changed on a rebuild and on a 400 they aren't. He said ARP makes bolts for a 400, but they are back ordered. Summit racing even has them listed as being shipped in October.

Otherwise, he says he always rebuilds them with factory bolts. He said he'd give me a set of used ones that have been hot tanked for $20, but that's the best I can do. If it makes you feel any better, all the 460's I've had built used the factory head bolts.
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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ARP, bolts or studs: First set ships 9/27




 
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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
Summit site won't open for some reason. Edelbrock is out of stock but jegs seems ok. He did mention the ARP studs option but he was quoting "almost $300"... maybe w/tax and quick ship too? He also said he thought they would be major over-kill for a stock, rebuild. FIIK. I do know he's under a lot of pressure... as his lil' lady is about to loose her Dr. office job for refusing the jab, putting all the pressure on him to keep the family afloat, so he's pushing hard to make as much as he can, as quick as he can.

I might wait a bit and order a set of those to have around, as previously mentioned concerns. I've got a minor surgery tomorrow and the cost is hitting me hard right now but I can't put it off... because I'm concerned it won't be long before I start getting rejected for any health care w/out the jab.

He says he'll stand behind the work, he's already chased the threads on the old bolts and block holes and feels confident enough to re-use. I'da swore I did the same. Maybe I somehow left some boogers down the bolt holes and all the torque in the world didn't matter... but 2k miles since I did it really puts everything in doubt. I'd hate to waste more money when I just missed or screwed something up with my in-experience but I would have thought anything "stupid" would have shown up before that. Indecision born of ignorance kills me with this shit but I/we just don't have money to throw around. I guess we'll try his suggestion and if these go tits-up again, I'll go with the studs and he can pull and replace. Still might come back to this thread and order a spare set when my wallet recovers.

Appreciate the efforts guys! 🍻
 

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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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As someone who is not an engine builder (lol), I think studs are overkill for your purpose as well. If you were stressing the engine a lot, a lot of really high revs, then I'd think it'd be a good idea. I honestly think a lot of people use things they see on race cars/engines and just figure if it's good for them it must be good for me. Oil and air filters come to mind in that vein.

Either way, I hope it works out proper for you.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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Dont trust Jegs website, Always call and make them check. From my own experiences.
Agree on studs likely not being worth it, also usually with studs you can no longer take the heads off the engine with it in the vehicle. (If any vehicle be an exception it would be the 78/79 kind of trucks). This is from somone who has studded engines in both broncos, and soon a ranger...

I think CobraJoe just giving you some options though, especially if they happened to be in stock. Though they do typically put a bit more even load on the gaskets/head/etc...

Super Crude maybe/maybe-not if he has or you have a set of calipers big enough you maybe able to at least check the bolt lengths to see if they are all still close. You may find a stretched one this way. Perfect world would be knowing what the bolt length was originally.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
He says he's cleaned the bolts (tumbled & threaded) and they look new and no sign of stretch he can tell. He also told me... the clincher for him is that he was able to remove those head bolts with a standard socket/wrench and not the breaker bar he usually has to break out to get head bolts loose. That's pretty telling and leads to the common sense assumption that for whatever reason... I didn't get those damn bolts to proper torque specs.
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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It was mentioned, just because they were available.
Just my $0.02, maybe the bolts were fine and you did torque them correctly and the heads weren't straight to begin with.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
That's entirely possible Joe. Thanks. I'm just bugged out because my Dad isn't going to be around much longer and I really wanted to do this one thing, right for him. I wanted him to be proud of his last son, who grew up with next to zero mechanical ability but managed to save him a bunch of money and hassle and fixed this rig he's grown so attached too. His Bronco was partially responsible for me even being here and having owned so many myself over the years. It just chaps my ass that I may have somehow fucked this job up but so far, can't identify exactly what or how. I'd have honestly rather had these problems with my own rebuild/re-install than his. I guess I'll have to wait and see what the mechanic hears back from the machinist. Never thought I'd be rooting for a fucked up head-job but here we are. ;)

Regardless... I'm just hoping he'll be able to use and enjoy his rig without troubles or headaches for his last few years, if that. His health is fading fast and the way the world is turning, I know he's got no desire to stick around any longer than he has too at this point.


THANKS AGAIN TO ALL YA'LL, FOR EVERYTHING! 🍻
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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Oops, I missed this whole page. I'll leave this here anyway.

Tim Meyer shows them on his site, don't know if they're in stock. $85 -edit: on a closer look they show as backordered.

I've heard good things about Egge Machine & parts for older vehicles over the years, but can't find head bolts on their site. Maybe a call tomorrow?
 

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He says he's cleaned the bolts (tumbled & threaded) and they look new and no sign of stretch he can tell. He also told me... the clincher for him is that he was able to remove those head bolts with a standard socket/wrench and not the breaker bar he usually has to break out to get head bolts loose. That's pretty telling and leads to the common sense assumption that for whatever reason... I didn't get those damn bolts to proper torque specs.
Those head bolts would have to be either severely overtorqued, or damaged/corroded to need to be replaced.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Discussion Starter · #292 ·
They were corroded enough to justify tumbling to clean and get a closer look but he knows this shit better than I do.
I talked w/Dad and told him to go ahead and run with 'em when he gets the heads back.

Rough day. Surgery was more intrusive than I'd expected. It is what it is. This too shall pass... mostly.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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16,065 Posts
Totally different, but I used the head bolts from my 300 to hang it on the engine stand, lots of spacers included. Anyone who has built a 300 knows that a 300 can quickly kill an engine stand due to weight and how long the 300 is. But i had no issues and the 4 head bolts had no problem holding the whole engine.

Gardner Wescott didnt appear to have any head bolts. McMaster Carr doesnt list if in stock but these here should work, if you know what size
McMaster-Carr

Hope the surgery recovery goes well!
 
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