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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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Well... there's nothing "stuck", I'm just trying to give it a deep soak before I start asking it to fire up. As I noted earlier, the oil looked clean when I drained it and it turned over with a short breaker-bar/socket fairly smooth and easy... but not as easy as the 400 that was in service.

I dropped 1 oz. of MMO down each plug hole this afternoon. I'll pick up a spray bottle and soak the valves, maybe pour a little down those holes and then turn it over a bit. Pull the pan, drain whatever in there and mix what's left of the MMO in some oil when I swap oil pans. I need to wait until after the 3rd before I can order parts though, so I'm in no rush. Dad and I will likely work on getting the oem manifolds off of the Lincoln 400, drilling the cut studs out and replacing them. I powerwashed and blew it off the today and then re-soaked all the important bolts with PB Blaster, again.


Oh yea... I put out a WTB ad here for a carb and @78BroncoSteve stepped up with a great deal on a Edelbrock 1406, freshly rebuilt by a shop. I've got the same carb on my '73's 360FE, so it should work out great and I'm already a little familiar with it, having rebuilt my own. He said the jets are setup for 5000 ft. elev. and I live closer to 2500. Shouldn't be an issue but I can't say for sure. We've both dropped mail, so I'm looking forward to it. <img src="http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" class="inlineimg" />

If you like PB Blaster, you'll love Hilco Lube. It used to not be available to the general public. I freed up the stuck rings of a 351w in an old cop car I bought because the owner ran the car so hot, it melted the plug wires completely off the engine and froze up the engine. I let it soak for a few days and it spun right over freely. It was running fine, no smoking or knocking, long after I sold it.
This one @JustRight ?
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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This is what I've been using and it's what I sprayed in my flatbed truck's spark plug holes. Not sure how good or bad it is compared to PB Blaster though I have a can of that as well.


 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
Spent a few hours of my Labor day working on Dad's Lincoln engine. He's been a real sport but I can tell he'd rather have his engine repaired than to swap in the unknown... especially since he and my lil' lady don't get along as well as I'd like. :rolleyes:






Looks like we got pretty lucky and only had a bad head gasket. I can't see any signs of damage or cracks on the block or the head. :shrug I realize that doesn't mean a whole lot but the problem looks pretty obvious that the gasket failed between the water and cylinder chambers, which explains the water going right out the tailpipe and not into the oil, much anyway. I wish I had that kind of confidence about the gasket when I pulled the heads on my '95's 351W. If anything... well sealed piston rings kept most of the water out of the oil... I think. Also might explain the broke tip of the spark plug, with coolant dumping right into that chamber and flash cooling the spark plug... I think.

I'm going to see if I can get a decent deal on having the heads cleaned and fluxed (whatever the proper nomenclature?) have the valve chambers cleaned, etc. and I was thinking a good scotch pad scrub on the cylinder lip of the block to clean off the burnt crusty coolant and it should should be good to go (obviously, new gaskets and surface cleaning all the way around). Maybe a little soak with the mystery oil for the rings, after I flip it over to see if I can identify where a nut goes that I found in the oil pan and re-settle it oriented so it can soak across the piston, against the walls... if that makes sense, while I wait for parts to show up and to get the heads done. I'm thinking the heads shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred bucks? :shrug

Since there's no obvious damage to the block or head, we're going to roll with the old CF block and I'll keep the lil' ladies MCC block on the sidelines. I've still got the her '78 XLT and I think it could fit in my '73 F250, if/when my old FE 360 goes out. Feel kinda bad about getting that great deal on the Edelbrock carb now. That's what I get for buying before digging in and verify the real problem. :banghead A complete engine, needs a carb anyway right? :brownbag

Thoughts, advice, corrections, tips and tricks are always welcome and encouraged. :whiteflag
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)
Got ahold of the machine shop that re-did my '95's 351W a few minutes ago. By the way... it's been a year now and my '95's still running smooth and powerful, so I'm happy to go back. Once I find a solid, reliable provider for most any service, I'm a return customer for as long as I can be. :thumbup

Anyway... Dennis at American Engine & Machine Inc. in Spokane, WA says he's booked up through Sept. but if I'm not in a big rush, he can do the whole cyl head job for $200 plus parts. Not bad, I think and parts shouldn't be an issue. He said something about the old Ford 400's need "hardened seats" but since this engine was rebuilt by Hi-Tech Engines out of Spokane, WA way back when, he agrees they should have already been installed then. Dad got the reference to Hi-Tech through RAM Engine, back in the day and Dennis started out with RAM... so the connection helps. Told him how happy I was with the work on my last engine and what I was doing now for my dear old Dad and he said he'd do the best he could for us and try to get 'em through a little faster, if he can. Could be all fluff and nonsense but it does make a fella feel a little better vs. starting over with an unknown shop/machinist.

I also contacted the same eBay parts supplier that I sourced my last set of OEM style exhaust manifolds through. They only had a right side listed that I could find but I far prefer to get both at the same time and through the same supplier, so we'll see if they can provide both DORMAN replacements. They shipped me a replacement for the manifold I cracked installing port plugs on the '95, with no hassle, charge or even a return... so again, earned my return business, if they can fill the order anyway.

I've got all my MAHLE gaskets (avoiding all Fel-Pro stuff these days) and the MELLING "standard volume" Oil Pump lined up in my cart on RockAuto and just got a response in their FSB section for a new discount code, to save 5% on that order. Might even throw in some fresh motor mounts. His old ones are showing some crazing through the rubber but no major cracks. Not sure if that's a waste or not but the low end replacements are only $6 ea., so probably worth it... I guess. :shrug

I also did some interweb reading last night on plugging that block's "extra", front sump oil dipstick block hole. Another ford site had a few suggestions that ran the gambit from simple to buggering up the block by thread tapping the hole. It's not very accessible and I don't want to muck up a perfectly good block, so I'm planning to go the simplest route. Best suggestion I read was to clean it all up, stick your finger on the top of the plug hole and fill the whole hole with RTV. It will be at least a few inches thick, there's no major pressure through there, RTV can handle the heat, it can be removed easily if you ever need to put that hole back into service, looks clean and since I've got the block out on the stand, should be very simple and cheap. You can order 3/8" tap-in plugs to use but they cost more to ship than a bag of 10 costs, so that sounded like a waste to me.

Just another update and looking for any guidance if I'm going astray one way or the other. Otherwise... just crawlin' along on this project but happy to be making progress. :thumbup
 

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Hey Pepe', I know I'm a little late with the offer, but I think I have a bag of the inserts you are talking about. I think mine are 3/8"thread and the outer diameter of the hole to be tapped is 1/2". If you want a couple of them let me know and I'll get them mailed to you ASAP. You will have to find the 1/2" tap though.
Swamp
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #88
I appreciate the offer @Swamp but I'm gonna pass on the tap. If I can seal it up without messing up the blocks original configuration, I just can't see any reason to do it. I do appreciate the offer though bud. Thanks. :beer


Little update as parts are trickling in.
I got a response from the eBay seller for the doorman exhaust manifolds. They requested a 17 digit VIN number to verify fit. The old '78 FSB has only 11. I explained the rig, the engine history and other compatible engines. They told me they couldn't sell me what I wanted because they couldn't verify fit. That's the problem with folks that can't take action without a computer program telling them what to do. :banghead
Got ahold of another eBay seller with the same doorman part listed, asked if they had a full set... this time I just stuck with the basics and no big explanation. Guess we'll see if they can handle it. This shouldn't be that complicated. :rolleyes:
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #89
HELP!?!

OK folks. I've found a complete set of exhaust manifolds and a set of valve covers through JBG for the 400/6.6l (aka:351M compatible) but I cannot for the life of me, find a rear sump oil pan with a dipstick attachment for under $200. The ONLY ones I can find to fit the 351C/351M/400 with the rear sump specific to a 4x4 application, are the super fancy, high capacity, aftermarket racing ones on Summit or eBay. I've checked all the regular sources. All the Ford OEM stuff won't go back to that engine and all the regular online parts guys don't have anything at all, leaving high performance applications and anything decent priced there is front sump, no dipstick.

Dad's oil pan is re-usable but it's got some pretty serious rust pitting and after working on it for the last few days, along with the valve covers... he'd given up on 1 of the valve covers due to internal corrosion from the coolant leak into the cylinder and the pan for aged rust pitting. I'm afraid I'm going to have to use the rust stop stuff and hope it gets into the tiny pits that have developed in the metal, if I can't find a decent replacement. $350+/- for a rear sump oil pan with an unnecessary 7 qt. capacity and a fancy flat pan baffle is just a waste but that's all I can seem to find online.

So... can anyone help me find what I need. Like I said... I've checked RockAuto, PartsGeek, JBG, LMC, BlueSpringsFordParts, FordPartsPrime, FordPartsGiant, DennisCarpenter, Dorman and freakin' eBay. I've run out of places to check in my decades worth of bookmarks. :banghead

HELP?
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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It looks like these guys Car-Part.com - Used Auto Parts Market have some used ones listed. Some are too high priced, but a couple look more reasonable. Many are shown as "call for price". Who knows about their shipping? It might be worth a check.

It seemed like @miesk5 had some online junkyard links.
 

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It looks like these guys Car-Part.com - Used Auto Parts Market have some used ones listed. Some are too high priced, but a couple look more reasonable. Many are shown as "call for price". Who knows about their shipping? It might be worth a check.
It seemed like @miesk5 had some online junkyard links.
Yo El,
Thanks for the referral! check's in the mail.:thumbup

Pepe'
Call Ray at Henrys Parts Depot 714-997-8895
He found the C6 6 pin nss for a pal in April 2016

Call John Crone -owner, Peerless Auto Parts
3541 Artesia Boulevard,
Torrance, CA 90504
(310) 856-4810 ‎
Thanks to out departed friend here, JKossarides!

For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
https://www.hollanderparts.com
A yard that uses Hollander Interchange can search other yards and have it shipped.
"...For over eighty years, Hollander has been making the best tool for fast, interchangeable part matches. The new Edition Hollander Interchange contains more interchangeable options than ever before.
The Hollander Interchange provides auto recyclers and auto collectors, rebuilders, and others with the easiest and most comprehensive solution for identifying interchangeable auto parts..." See their yard Directory @: https://www.hollanderparts.com/SellerDirectory
Can select certain parts[, /B] including some Canadian yards.
Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles
If a specific part, such as the tailgate torsion bar isn't listed, search again for the next higher assembly, such as in this instance, the tailgate.
¤
or
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
Can select certain parts, but some Canadian postal codes entries I tried resulted in "INVALID POSTAL CODE INPUT"
Can search by year range, such as 92 through 96 & has best item condition descriptions such as "COVER BAD LEATHER PWR BKT GRY"
Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay
¤

Bronco Used Part Search @ https://www.partshotlines.com/parts/ford/bronco/ with source, cost, yard and phone #

¤
Concord Spare Parts @ https://www.concord-parts.com/
732-374-3872
[email protected]

¤
http://www.picknpull.com
This is a Company name w/yard locations in various states
Can NOT Select certain parts
Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles
¤

B&R Autowrecking, in CA, WA, NV, OR. "We have a fleet of over 60 trucks that deliver to business addresses all over Oregon and Washington. Outside of Oregon and Washington, we have daily shipping services. Contact Us for a quote."
"Will ship to their closest yard for $50 flat" by StemCellResearch", 2019
¤

http://row52.com/Search
Can NOT Select certain parts
Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles
AND Want a Part? It's Easy...
1. You create a Parts Wanted Listing.
2. Parts Pullers respond with offers.
3. You pick the best one.
A Parts Puller gets the parts you need.
¤
For obsolete parts by Ford long version pn:
http://www.partsvoice.com/
http://www.rearcounter.com
Main
https://nospartsltd.com

And by a search function;
https://autopartsobsolete.com/truck-ford/

For new discounted Ford parts:
https://consumerlink.oeconnection.com/91554453363118850 (suggested by JScatt!)
¤
Stop by a local Ford dealer parts department and ask. They will look it up in the Interchange Guide data base.
The Ford bean counters deleted the public Interchange Guide and Buyer's Guide a few years ago to save their $ & make it more difficult for us to maintain our Broncos.
As an example, here is Ford Motorcraft's buyers guide info for a ""Motorcraft basic pn":
"12A646 is a relay.EEC power, mostly found under the hood next to the fuel pump relay on EFI vehicles. .
RELAY, ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (ASSEMB
DY-865 [Universal Relay] 2 Bbl.; E1VB-12A646AA,E3AF-12A646B1A,E3UF-12A6461A1,A2A, B1A,,B2A,E3TF-12A646A1A,A2A,B1A,B2A
and from the Buyers Guide:
Part No.: DY-865
Manufacturer: MOTORCRAFT
Part Type: ELEC ENG CONT ASSY RELAY
Total No. of Vehicles: 275
FORD (202) 1983-1994
AEROSTAR (9) 1986-1992
1992 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1991 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1990 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1989 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1988 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1987 L4-140ci 2.3L F/I Vin A
1987 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1986 L4-140ci 2.3L F/I Vin A
1986 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U

BRONCO (18) 1983-1991
1991 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N
1991 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H
1990 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N
1990 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H
1989 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N
1989 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H
1988 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N
1988 V8-351ci 5.8L F/I Vin H
1987 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N
1987 V8-351ci 5.8L 4 BBL Vin H
1986 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N
1986 V8-351ci 5.8L 4 BBL Vin H
1985 V8-302ci 5.0L F/I Vin N
1984 V8-302ci 5.0L 2 BBL Vin F
1984 V8-351ci 5.8L 2 BBL Vin G
1984 V8-351ci 5.8L 4 BBL Vin H
1983 V8-302ci 5.0L 2 BBL Vin F
1983 V8-351ci 5.8L 2 BBL Vin G
ETC."
¤
Pull-A-Part SEARCH INTERCHANGEABLE PARTS INVENTORY, @ https://www.pullapart.com/inventory/interchangeable-parts/search/

GL Pepe'!
 

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Pepe, the broncos I have owned all has a 7 qt pan stock
if your pan is pitted, hit it with a sand blaster to remove all rust in the pits and see how the integrity is
if needed a, I have a decent stock 78 m block rear sump 7 qt pan
remember you will also need to find the rear sump oil pump pick up tube and the bolt for the main cap that the oil pick up tube bracket mounts to
 

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I appreciate the efforts but if I'm going used... I'll just refurb his old one. I was hoping to find NOS or OEM repro.
Yo Pepe',
In my previous reply, these are NOS Sources;
Call Ray at Henrys Parts Depot 714-997-8895
He found the C6 6 pin nss for a pal in April 2016

Call John Crone -owner, Peerless Auto Parts
3541 Artesia Boulevard,
Torrance, CA 90504
(310) 856-4810 ‎
Thanks to out departed friend here, JKossarides!

Remainder are used parts sources.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,855 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
@trustyrusty - I did not know that. I assumed the oil capacity for the 400 was the same 6qt. as the 351W and you know what they say about ass-u-me'in. :toothless I also guessed the fancy racing pans added capacity to lessen possible starvation on race launch or extreme downhill runs off-road. Good stuff to know. :thumbup
FWIW, Dad's 400 was already setup with the rear sump pan/pickup tube. It was the "spare" 400 that had the front sump and now, I can guess why with the rear sump being much harder to find at a reasonable price.

side-track: The conversation got me curious enough to go and check out my other rigs and they're actually the opposite of what I would have expected. My '73 F250 w/360 has a front sump pan that practically rests against the front axle and the ol' ladies '78 FSB XLT-R with another 400 is setup with a rear sump pan. Odd.

Anyway... the right side valve cover seems to be more pitted than the oil pan. After Dad's done wire brushing the hell out of it, I'll give it a run through the sandblaster. If the metal integrity is still good (looks like it should be) then I'll coat it with RUST STOP primer and then a few coats of engine enamel. With all that... it should outlast Dad, at least. :shrug

If the integrity of the pan is a real concern after blasting, then I'll probably try the NOS numbers recommended by @miesk5 and if I come up empty, then I'll drop you a quick line.
I appreciate the input (as always) and offers greatly from the both of ya! :beer Hard to go wrong when you're working with the FSB Family! :rockon Did give me a short, sad pause for our good friend, @JKossarides passing. "Good Luck ~ :thumbup"



I'm just about out of cash to spend on this repair after blowing through most of Dad's spare, saved up funds on some fresh parts and the outsourced work. New parts I've picked up so far didn't seem like much but added up fast.

2x motor mounts
cyl head gasket set
intake manifold gasket set
oil pan gasket
oil pump
temp. sensor
dist. cap adapter (I broke the clip off)
valve covers (cheap, no frills, EDP Black)
exhaust manifolds, oem style (one cracked in 2 spots and the other looking questionable)

Having the cyl heads fluxed, dipped, cleaned will run around $200. Decent price, I think. Hope it's already had the hardened valve seats (I think that was what the guy was recommending) but if not, still should come in under $300 and last another decade +. :toothless
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #96
Finally got the heads back this afternoon and only spent about 15 minutes trying to find my own thread again.
All seems well and I did end up paying more for the hardened seats. The guy was insistent about them on this engine, specifically. Oh well. If there's any future problems, he won't have that to fall back on and if it keeps this old 400 on the road longer/better... I can think of worse way to blow an extra $100.

I've still got a lot of prep to do getting the block ready and now, it's considerably colder out in the shop.

This forum make-over to the place and people that have become such a deeply ingrained part of my life is making me feel very grumpy and more than a little concerned, in the middle of an indepth (for me) engine repair and relying on my Bronco family to help get me through any rough spots. :(
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Finally got the heads back this afternoon and only spent about 15 minutes trying to find my own thread again.
Sorry, I had to laugh at that, because I felt the same way when I went to check on my subscribed threads and realized there are no more "subscriptions". If you haven't already found out where they went, click on your account details icon (avatar pic) in the top right (on computer anyway) then click on "following". That's the new "subscribed" as I found out from clicking on everything until I found what I was looking for.

I don't know how bad the valve seats would get without them being hardened, but if it was an engine that was designed to use leaded gas, ie. everything I own, then apparently it's a good idea to have them put in. I wouldn't do it just to do it, like I wouldn't yank my heads to have the hardened seats installed, then put them back on, but if you have them off already you may as well do it.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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This forum make-over to the place and people that have become such a deeply ingrained part of my life is making me feel very grumpy and more than a little concerned, in the middle of an indepth (for me) engine repair and relying on my Bronco family to help get me through any rough spots. :(
I feel ya there brother... But glad ya got the heads back and ready to move forward. Hopefully after everyone's had a chance to breathe they realize we need them and it'll be easier to overlook the changes... Think positive ?
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
Hey... I finally found my thread again.
I posted some little progress in the "WDYDTYBT" thread but I'll give a quick recap.

Dad and I managed to get the oil pan and valve covers painted in some of the colder months by setting up his shed with tarps and heaters. It was a crap attempt to come up with a "paint booth" of sorts but they came out pretty good, all things considered. We've had 'em stored indoors for awhile now, just to avoid any surfacde rust forming on the insides where there's no paint protection.

I've had a lot of gut problems this year and plenty of personal drama's to deal with... so I've been putting the engine re-assembly off with the excuse that it's been too cold in my shop for the RTV sealant to cure properly. It finally started to get up over 40 deg. F in the afternoons, so without a good excuse... I got back into it a little.

I setup a radiant heater under the block and let it sit for a couple days with an oversized piece of cardboard and a tarp over the whole thing. I wanted it to warm up slowly, so as not to cause any condensation and resulting surface rust. Once the block was reasonable room temperature-ish, I got the pan gaskets properly installed and the old, refinish oil pan torqued down to 10 ft. lbs. (per Haynes). I also managed to find a hard rubber plug at the local ACE Hardware that had a tapered fit with the small end matching the dip tube diameter in the front of the block. I got that little bastard wedged down in the hole hard with a hammer and punch until it was pretty much, flush mounted. As we discussed before, there's not a lot of pressure there, so it should do the job and can still be removed if I had to in the future without damaging the block, like if I had tried to tap it out for a bolt or metal, threaded plug.

I installed the new motor mounts but like most cheap chinease sh!t, I had to grind the edges down so the mounts weren't pushing against the oil pan. Once I got 'em to fit without interferance, I repainted them and then picked up some fresh, grade 8 bolts and washers. Got 'em all setup and torqued down without any other issues.

After that, I flipped the block sideways and cleaned off what was left of the head gasket. I used care and the gravity angle to avoid getting crap in the jugs, water journals or threaded bolt holes and even followed up with a shop vac to make double sure everything was "clean".

Now it's ready for me to install the head gasket and the heads but I've got a concern Dad keeps bringing up.

I removed the rockers, the rods and the valves from the heads and laid them out on the bench... in order, so I could re-install everything right back where it came out of. They've been sitting, covered with paper towels to soak up any condensation/moisture for months. Dad's really concerned about the oil in the valves now. Is this a real problem? Is there something I need to do with them to flush any internal oil and replace it with fresh oil or is Dad just trippin'? They've been just sitting, covered on the bench for months now, so I can't just dismiss the concern and for all I know, it would be a mistake to do so. I really don't know much about what I'm doing, beyond "remove, replace and re-install", so I need some advice. What say you my FSB mechancal advisors? What would you do to make sure when this all goes back together, it works smoothly. I'd feel like a real ass if I mess up this engine for no other reason than cold weather and procrastination.
 

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"Oil in the valves" - I'm low on caffeine this morning, but not really following.

You mean the lifters?
I'm assuming since you sent the heads out to get seats installed that the valves were in the heads when you did it.

If you mean the lifters - just clean 'em off, stick then in a container of fresh oil and use a pushrod to depress the lifter plunger to pull some oil inside. That's what I've always done on new and used lifters.
 
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