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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #101
yea.. sorry. I should have looked all the parts up to make sure I had the right names. apologies for the confusion.
the heads were redone professionally, as previously noted. I should have said lifters but thanks for being sharp enough to figure me out. ;)
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #102
Kickin' this bitch back up from the dead now that it's starting to warm up a little outside.

I got the heads on. Even called @cobrajoe to make sure I wasn't mixing them up (doh! thanks Joe!).
I combed through the Haynes manual and I can't find torq specs for the head mounting bolts.

Can somebody give me those for the 315M/400 heads? Gaskets are laid, heads are placed, bolts are mostly threaded but I'm stuck to find a proper torq spec and sequence, which I would assume to be top/bottom, center out.
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Shoulda called back and listened to my New England aaackkent. 95-100 ft lbs Bro.
When in doubt work your way out from the center alternating top & bottom. Always work your way up to the final torque spec, usually in 3 steps.

 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #105
OK... been too long since I took it all apart. With the valley pan in play on the M blocks... I'm still using gaskets for the intake manifold mounting surfaces on the block ends and the heads? Thin RTV the pan and then thin RTV the gaskets, then drop the manifold... preferable with guide studs?

No rush. May grab a little wind tomorrow. First time we'll be close to the 70's in too long and I still haven't gotten Betty out to stretch her legs and get some wind therapy this year.


Again... thanks to @cobrajoe for quick call, torq verification I couldn't find in my Haynes POS manual. I had those rocker studs torq'd down between 30-35. Almost wondering if I should replace 'em, after "stretching" them like that... but they should be ok, I think. 😕
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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You keep saying "studs" and I woke up in the middle of the night thinking, 351C's (except certain HiPo's) 351M's & 400 don't have studs, they have a 5/16" bolt with fulcrum style rockers that you just torque down to 18-25 ft. lbs. They should look like this:



So my question is, somebody didn't change it over to 7/16" studs, did they? I can't see someone machining the pedestals off of a 400 like we used to do on the Clevelands, but they used to make a conversion kit that changed it over to studs so you could use adjustable rockers, if so, it should look something like this:



If it is like the last pic (I highly doubt it) then they have to be individually adjusted
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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4,857 Posts
As far as the Valley pan goes, NO GASKET on the heads! They were designed to go on dry, I have used Permatex high-tack sealant around the intake ports in the past, but it is not needed.
As far as the front and rear rails, I would toss the cork or rubber gaskets supplies and apply a good bead of RTV on the rails and intersect it with the corner of the head slightly. Remember, the intake is dry on these motors so there are no water ports to leak.
The reason you need the valley pan is because the intake is dry and has an exhaust crossover that gets it pretty hot. Without the valley pan, oil splashing would burn up and causes hard a residue to drop into the oil causing wear.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #108
Dude... I'm really sorry my piss-poor nomenclature is keeping you up at night. They are bolts, not studs. (* brownbag smilie would have gone here)

Glad I asked about the gaskets and valley pan. That makes good sense. So no RTV at the heads but RTV applied liberally to the bottom and top of the valley pan to get a good seal on those edges, especially at the corners against the heads, as that's a known issue area. Thanks again bud. 👍
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Who is this poor guy named Norman Clature of which you speak?????
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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I just think it's funny @cobrajoe is waking up in the middle of the night thinking about "studs".
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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How's this project going young fella" ?
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #114
1 measly decade. I'd bet you've been waiting to spring that one on me... old timer. ;)

Just got a fresh tube of RTV this afternoon. Guts were sh!t most of the weekend, so I'll probably spread the splash pan tonight. Not sure if I should pull the dizzy to install the intake without a hang-up, so I'll trial fit that tonight before I apply any RTV and see how it goes.
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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One measly decade????? I'd take back another measly week at this point in my life. Funny, I thought growing old would take longer.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #117 (Edited)
Got out there this afternoon and started trying to test fit. Man... I am pathetically out of shape these days. Hoisting around that intake, with the 2bl carb still installed... not going smoothly enough to just drop it in place properly. I quickly realized, I hadn't even cleaned up the mating surface on the intake manifold... so I had to figure out a way to prop it up, upside down to clean 'em up.


I would pull the carb and seriously clena and paint the intake but Dad rejected the new 4bl carb I bought for him and his old 2bl has a bunch of different vacuum attachments and plugs from when this engine was in his old Lincoln. A lot of parts I know nothing about.

Besides cleaning up a lot of old, blue RTV that had been used before to seal surfaces between the intake/heads (that shouldn't need it?), I was met with a good deal of corrosion and bubbled grime (oil/coolant/etc.). Apparently the splash pan wasn't keeping everything as clean as I'd have expected. MY OCD couldn't take it... so I ran a wire wheel across the surface to clean it up some before I scrapped the mating surfaces clean/flat. The lame pics from my old cell cam really don't do the grime justice and I snapped these pics /2 way through.



Not perfect like new but much better at least...


Then I decided I'd be better off to take advantage of the hoist in my shop to slowly, carefully drop the intake manifold down smoothly, without sliding around... when I'm ready.




Next, I tried to test fit the splash pan. Included with the MEHLE gasket kit are rubber liners that appear to mount under the valley pan, with tiny rubber dowels that fit into the holes and edge wraps that go around the blocks edges. Realizing the valley pan was designed with those in mind, I started to second guess your advice @cobrajoe
If the pan is designed to sit flush on top of those rubber gasket pieces, I'm concerned that removing them and replacing them with just a thick application of RTV, might push the thin, tin valley pan out of shape. I read the silicone pack included with the gaskets that says to be sure to read the installation instruction S1579, so I thought I better check that out. I flipped through the box and found the instruction sheet... in 3 foreign languages but nothing in English!?!
Searched the web, checked the MEHLE site and can't find anything. Site search comes back empty for S1579 and even SI579 (thought maybe but nope).

So... as much as I respect and appreciate your advice @cobrajoe I can't help but wonder if I actually do need those end gasket pieces for that particular valley pan to seal properly. I can't verify squat unless I learn to read French, Spanish or whatever else, so here I sit... confused and concerned.

Also... I know pulling the dizzy to install the intake would make it a direct drop but I was really tring to avoid doing that... for fear of messing something up in there.

Appreciate thoughts and advice and if anyone can find that damn missing, English MEHLE S1579 instruction sheet, that would be fantastic.
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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I've probably installed 25 of those pans over the years on 351 Clevelands which is the same setup you have on the 351M-400, and after the first one, I stopped using the rail gaskets, but that's me.
If you feel more comfortable using the rail gaskets, I would strongly suggest wiping the rails with lacquer thinner, acetone or some other fast evaporating solvent and glue the rail gaskets to the block and let them dry. Otherwise, in about a month, you will be telling me your 'ol man has an oil leak down the back of his motor.
Good luck.


Just for $hits & Giggles. If you do a Google search on "351 cleveland intake valley pan install" I'd be willing to bet people (and probably aftermarket intake manufactures) will tell you not to use the cork or rubber gaskets as they always squish out and leak.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #119
Alright. I wanted to double check with you because I was more concerned with the fitment of that thin valley pan but I'll take your advice and make it happen. Thanks again for putting up with me and helping out bud. 🍻
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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No problem , do whatever you feel comfortable with, because in the end, you are the one who has to deal with it..
Your in front of your computer and Google it and get a feel for what other people have done or are doing. Hey, I'm old, maybe things changed.....
 
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