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1993 F150 XLT 302 Auto 4x4 2.5" Lift on 32's
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Yes, I'm that new with these Broncos and trucks.

Is the Dana 44 front axle TTB a type of IFS (independent front suspension) on the 92 to 97 Broncos/F150s?

Is this the only front axle that came on these OBS Broncos/F150's with 302 and 351W?

Would new front axel shafts be a good idea when replacing gears?

These questions were brought up when I was looking for new gears and one site said - "D44 IFS Rebuild KIT With Detroit TrueTrac …….This complete rebuild KIT for a Dana 44 IFS with a Detroit True Trac Differential for Ford Twin Traction Beam axle …."

Just I it doesn't say the company who makes the 4.10 gears itself.

differential kit rebuild kit-Broncograveyard.com
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,519 Posts
Yes, the TTB is a type of IFS. It’s not as “fully independent” as an A-arm type suspension, but they do technically move independent of one another. You will be able to tell when you jack up one side it will elevate the other side a little bit as well. This is the only front 4x4 axle offered on the 1/2 ton truck chassis in the 80-96 year range. I think even the 3/4 ton trucks had TTB.

Those kits from JBG, I believe, are from Revolution Gear.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,731 Posts
Yes it is independent suspension. TTB stands for Twin Traction Beam. Its a "solid axle" with a joint in the middle. Sort of the best of both worlds really. The only thing to get a solid axle up front in after 79 was the f350, from 85-97. All other ford trucks got the TTB. Then the superduty brought solid axles back in 99.

It is arguably the best independent suspension ever devised. Or the worst depending on who you talk to. When properly set up, TTB is a wonderful thing. It comes down to geometry, and the TTB has the longest components of any independent suspension. This gives a smooth ride and allows for monstrous amounts of wheel travel. There is no better factory type suspension for high speed desert travel.

The TTB D44 (D44hd and D50 too) are all reverse cut (RC) gears. Also known as high pinion, which is stronger than standard cut, low pinion gears in the front axle. The d44 RC gears can br interchanged with any solid axle D44 with RC gears. Doesnt have to be TTB specific.

TTB came on all 4x4 broncos, f150, and F250 from 80-96/7. It also came on 80-84(or 85) f350 as well. 80-82 TTB used a different method of axle stub shaft retention.
  • D44 on F150 and bronco
  • D44HD on light duty F250
  • D50 on the 80-84/5 F350 and HD F250.
All three third members are interchangeable in the TTB application. So you could find a 4.10 D50 third member and bolt it right on your d44.

As for the differentials themselves, any d44 detroit, truetrac, spartan, etx fits most all d44.

Its not worth upgrading axle shafts until you really start offroading it heavily. It is worth it to rebuild your current axle shafts with u-joints while its all apart. Its likely that they have never been changed.
 

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Registered
1993 F150 XLT 302 Auto 4x4 2.5" Lift on 32's
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Cool thanks! This helps a lot, never knew this. I'll just have to forgo the gear and differential kits then, seeing I'm looking for either Ford or Yukon gears with the Detroit Truetrac. No big deal I'll just buy the rebuild kits then the gears and differential separate. Might be more money (hope not too much more) though I'll get the brands I want.

Had the universals replaced a while ago though I'll look into replacing them. I don't plan on doing much heavy off roading so I'll skip the axels like said.

Stock 8.8 rear axels are 31 spline and stock D44 front axels 30 spline?
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,731 Posts
8.8 is 31 spine. Not sure about the d44.

Ive run motive gears in most everything ive done. Never had an issue. You'll love the truetrac!
 
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Registered
1993 F150 XLT 302 Auto 4x4 2.5" Lift on 32's
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the spline information everyone! I just might end up doing them anyways. Everything is apart so why not? I know why seeing I know myself.....now I'll be looking into rear disk conversions and maybe C-clips. $1000.00 in parts job now is hitting $2000.00 plus lol. I must stay away from E-Lockers, I must.

Just when you think you're done mod'ing and improving vehicles. No wonder why I'm so broke lol

I like Richmond and Motive gears too just from what I understand years ago Motive and Ford got together. So now Motive makes FRPP gears or Ford now make Motive gears. If I remember right Motive now makes FRPP gears.
 

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Man of endless projects
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9,168 Posts
depending on your plans of your truck, might be better to go 8-lug with a 10.25" in the back. your profile says 32" tires but if your talking e-locker then sounds like your planning on wheeling. the 8.8" has never really been super amazing with bigger tires, ok with stockish sized. so if you plan on doing some resious stuff might be cheaper in long run to go 8-lug now before spending money on 8.8". jsut food for thought. theres not a great way to make the front 8-lug. but it can be done with the right parts, most for a 3/4 ton older chevy. you can get a new Ford e-locker for 10.25" cheap, like 500$. i put 2 in my trucks

you talknig about c-clip eliminators? i wouldnt bother with them. there more for drag racing going straight, not for offroading. c-clip failures are only really if the carrier has a serious issue or an axleshaft snaps. most aftermarekt carriers are stronger than you need and chromoly shafts will help alot

i spend eveyr $ i have on my trucks every week and i still havent made many gains. i keep breaking or modifying stuff i already done to make it better.
 

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Registered
1993 F150 XLT 302 Auto 4x4 2.5" Lift on 32's
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
That's just me and the way I work and build things. The "While I'm there what else should I do" gets expensive with me.

The information is not going on deaf ears, thank you Kingfish. E-locker is something I'd like to do though I don't need it. I have to keep telling myself that.

I'm going to stick with new parts. Biggest tire and wheel size this will see is 33" on 18" wheels if money allows next year. Still need paint n body work before tires and wheel.

I do go off road with it though no heavy stuff. incredible inclines, major rock crawling, no high flying sand dunes - though this is fun, no warp 9 through some trails or hammer down through some deep mud holes which I don't know. Mainly hunting, fishing trips, towing n hauling and some of the above but not like I said.

Pipefitter / Trade School Teacher / Firearms instructor (side job) here. This is my everyday vehicle so I need to know my limits while having fun. Want to build a nice respectable and reliable vehicle. Nothing crazy this time - been there done that. Mustangs are what I play with and I really can't drive a 505/510 horsepower Mustang everyday...well.....
 

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Registered
95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs. 94 Bronco 5.0/E4OD/1356/3.50 gears.
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358 Posts
You'll like the truetrac, mine is great for a commuter/offroad vehicle.

The 8.8 should be fine. I've yet to see one break, although the previous owners teenage son broke one under my old 85 Bronco before I purchased it (300/np435/3.50/trac lock, on 30"s at the time). Not sure how, unless he was sidestepping the clutch at 4k repeatedly. Wait, even that doesn't explain it, because that's how I tried to break my first 8.8. It was fozzy locked and under a 92 165k mile F150 (4.9/M5OD/32"s). I truly tried to break it, one tire on clean pavement, one on gravel, did a burnout or two then side stepped the clutch at 4k repeatedly forwards and backwards. Then daily drove it for another 5k miles or so including some rock crawling. Never skipped a beat. I beat the piss out of the 8.8 under my 93 F150 which had 245k miles (4.9/M5OD/4x4/3.50 trac lock/31"s). Even my buddy with a first gen explorer 200k ish miles (4.0/M5OD/4x4/30"s) and welded 8.8 never had a failure. We even found a single bearing in the bottom of his diff when we welded it, then filled with delo 400, it was fine and surprisingly noise free for the remaining 10K or so the explorer lasted before it was wrapped around a tree.

I wouldn't reccomend this unless you enjoy snap understeer.

Yeah, the 8.8 is strong enough. I'm running 35"s and am not exactly nice to mine, I do a lot of high loads from a stop, but have zero worries about it because I drive carefully when offroad.

I would replace any and all bearings and seals, and the rear axles may be worth inspecting for spline wear, if the splines are visibly worn it could be worth upgrading or replacing them.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,731 Posts
You'll like the truetrac, mine is great for a commuter/offroad vehicle.

The 8.8 should be fine. I've yet to see one break, although the previous owners teenage son broke one under my old 85 Bronco before I purchased it (300/np435/3.50/trac lock, on 30"s at the time). Not sure how, unless he was sidestepping the clutch at 4k repeatedly. Wait, even that doesn't explain it, because that's how I tried to break my first 8.8. It was fozzy locked and under a 92 165k mile F150 (4.9/M5OD/32"s). I truly tried to break it, one tire on clean pavement, one on gravel, did a burnout or two then side stepped the clutch at 4k repeatedly forwards and backwards. Then daily drove it for another 5k miles or so including some rock crawling. Never skipped a beat. I beat the piss out of the 8.8 under my 93 F150 which had 245k miles (4.9/M5OD/4x4/3.50 trac lock/31"s). Even my buddy with a first gen explorer 200k ish miles (4.0/M5OD/4x4/30"s) and welded 8.8 never had a failure. We even found a single bearing in the bottom of his diff when we welded it, then filled with delo 400, it was fine and surprisingly noise free for the remaining 10K or so the explorer lasted before it was wrapped around a tree.

I wouldn't reccomend this unless you enjoy snap understeer.

Yeah, the 8.8 is strong enough. I'm running 35"s and am not exactly nice to mine, I do a lot of high loads from a stop, but have zero worries about it because I drive carefully when offroad.

I would replace any and all bearings and seals, and the rear axles may be worth inspecting for spline wear, if the splines are visibly worn it could be worth upgrading or replacing them.
I shredded the spider gears in my 8.8, 3.55s turning 37s. Mostly highway driving. The exploded as i left a stop sign. It had never ever been offroad, except some jumps and chasing cows down through pastures.

Through in a factory traclock, and the pinion bearings crapped on me. Moved to a 10.25 and 4.88s!
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,731 Posts
lol...that sounds abusive when it is commonly acceptable to run 4.88s for 35s!
Lol, yeah was a highscool/college kid with little cash... And on the highway, rpms were LOW, like 1900 at 75 mph. But as you can imagine, it was pretty gutless, but would peg the speedo, and still keep going faster. My current bronco has 4.56 and 37s, but no overdrive. The 4.56s allow me to still do 80+ down the highway. 90 is about max, as im over 3500 rpms at that point.
 
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