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Discussion Starter #1
I've been working on my bumper the past couple days....I've got the main bumper section done, hitch tube welded in, and hole cut for the 44 spindle.

The tube is 4x6. For some reason I thought that the spindle would fit on there all the way. It won't.

I can get two bolts in the spindle both are on the same side....The inside.

Should I bother with the two bolts at all or just weld it in?
Any special instructions or tips when welding the base of the 44 spindle to the bumper.

This is what I have so far.


I'm no pro welder obviously....
 

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Thanks 351w500
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I would center the spindle on the bumper and cut off what ever is hanging over and then drill new holes.But i have seen the whole flange cut off to and it just welded on. If you do plan on welding it just make sure it locks where you want it to first. Or ad a nice little reinforcing plate that is just big enough to accommodate the amount that hangs over.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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The reason you are using a spindle is to use the lock-out to hold it closed and open correct?

then that is why.
 

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I would definitely not weld it. One of the advantages of using this as a tire carrier is that you get to carry around a spare spindle and bearings, right? Why not build a little platform (maybe a plate on top of the bumper with a gusset) to get a couple more bolts in?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I decided to use this hinge because I expected the tire carrier to be quite heavy. With a 35" tire, and possible 37" tire in the future, as well as a removable cooler/water jug/lantern rack, ladder for the roof rack, and jerry can mounts, I just didn't feel as though the trailer spindle hinges would hold up for me.

The other appeal is being able to lock it with a lock out hub.


The reason you are using a spindle is to use the lock-out to hold it closed and open correct?

then that is why.

To be able to lock the hub in the tire carriers open position how should the hub be oriented? Where at on the spindle does the hub lock in?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Is your stub just welded to the spindle? I've got a stub for it too, just haven't gotten to that yet.

If you got any pics or tips for how you installed the stub I'd love to see/hear them.
 

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BeastfaB
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Yup, just welded in. I used brake cleaner to get all the grease out of the spindle bearings. Welded the stub in on the same end as the bearings making sure it stays centered on the end with the splines.
 

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You can use the WalMart blue can brake cleaner. It only contains acetone, tolulene, and methanol. It does not contain that tetrochloro B.S. that can kill you when you mig weld. Another advantage is it is cheaper than other brake cleaners and carb cleaners.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had the lug mounting flange machined off the hub.......He wasn't able to find a tube that fit over the hub. The only one we came up with was much too big.

My question is, can I just weld right to the hub......That is what a local guy recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Someone gave me what I thought was a good idea.....If I do weld directly to the hub like triplesix did, I can use a piece of 1/8 strap heated and wrapped around the hub, and then welded to the tire carrier.....Like a lock in case the welds were to break on the cast hub.

For now I'm still looking for a tube that will fit tightly over the hub. If I do weld right to the hub though, I am going to try the strap. Maybe 1 or 2" x whatever you need to wrap around the hub and weld to the carrier tube in front and back. A big U basically.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
One other probably rather dumb question.


After I cut the yoke and all that off the shaft, and removed the spindle seal so it doesn't melt, I think the shaft goes through the spindle too far to assemble the lockout.

Any ideas or tips....Or does it matter....The short section of splines on the stub shaft BELOW the snap ring groove are almost completely exposed when inserted into the spindle all the way.
 
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