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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, New to the group and not sure where I should be posting this but here it goes. I have an 88 ford bronco that is strictly a mud bogging rig. Power plant is a 521 BBF c6 trans into 205 t-case. I bought solid axles out of a 1976 f-250 which is a Dana 44 front and a Dana 60 rear. Currently the truck still has factory ifs front end. Knowing the sole use of this truck is it worth spending the extra money to go to a full coil over suspension versus staying leaf sprung? Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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another option is to use 78-79 bronco/73-79 f150 coil buckets and just use regular coils up front but you will also need the lower coil buckets radius arms and buy some c's to weld on. it would probly be cheaper to sell what you have and buy the d44 front from one of those trucks and do that then go coil over but if money isn't an issue then by all means im sure coil overs set up the right way would be the better way to go. better yet with all that power stick a d60 in the front too

I currently have that set up on my 90 f150 with deaver coils and it rids very nice. but I also have the 4.9 with the bbf you might need something stiffer then deavers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If I could find a fair priced d60 front it would definitely get one but for what I gave for the front and rear I have now is what most are wanting for the d60 rear so I can't complain. Because of the power plant we built we completely stiffened the front of the frame when we installed the front and midplates. What I was looking at as far as coil buckets was a set from rusty off-road for upper bucket and lower plate. As far as pricing goes for them I believe it would be in the price range of $400 for the brackets. Granted that doesn't include the track bars or heim joint to build it that way. What would be a reasonable price for a coil over d44 front axle?
 

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I honestly have no idea what it would cost to do a coil over set up but I know it will be a lot more then doing a regular coil spring set up. and for the track bar. ruff stuff sells trac bar kits that are pretty fair priced and you can wait until they have there 20% off sales. I have there trac bar kit trac bar mount and the dom steering kit from them very beefy stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tire size will be a 38x19x15 boggers on correctly space wheels, the truck has a 3" body now so ending lift will be 9" for tire spacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With chrome moly axles shafts a Dana 44 is just as strong as a Dana 60 so I'm not too awfully concerned about the strength of the front.
 

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Look into King coil over for tuning and rebuild . I had cheap coil over and then upgraded to king , should have just done king the 1st time and been done with it
 

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With that big a motor I would definitely go at least a dana 60 in the front. The 44 isn't made to hold up to all that power with big tires. You may not break the chromoly axles but everything else in the 44 will probably explode. Just upgrading axle shafts does not mean it's as strong as a 60. Also boggers aren't made in the tire size you specified. The 38.5" is 15" wide and the 39.5" is 18" wide. They aren't 19" wide until you hit 44's.


I think you need to check out the SAS section and do lots of research. Everything you need to know should be over there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Again I'm not worried about the Dana 44 at all. I'm running a Dana 44 for ground clearance reasons and they will stand up to the abuse. There are several trucks that runs in our area 44's on a Dana 30 axle, with 1 to 1 ratio in the transfer case and a 3.42 gear up front and a 4.10 out back with 600 plus CID and nitrous to boot so again thanks to everyone's concern about the strength of my Dana 44 but there is not one person on here that's going to change my mind.
 

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Again I'm not worried about the Dana 44 at all. I'm running a Dana 44 for ground clearance reasons and they will stand up to the abuse.
Okay. I disagree but I respect your opinion. :popc1:


There are several trucks that runs in our area 44's on a Dana 30 axle
On what kind of trucks? I know Jeeps have a dana 30, (I have one) but they are also about half the weight of a bronco and everybody else I know with a jeep upgrade the axles after about a 35" tire. I don't know what other trucks came with a 30. Rangers maybe? I don't know. I'd like to see pics of these trucks if you have any.


3.42 gear up front and a 4.10 out back...
Does anybody else see a problem with this?

there is not one person on here that's going to change my mind.
Not trying to change your mind. You asked for advice. I was giving advice.

I'm sorry that I didn't answer any questions on the coil over suspension but I will admit, I don't know much about that. So I don't want to lead you the wrong way there.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I do understand some people's concern on either gear ratio and or the size of axle , but this truck is strictly used for mud drags/ bogging. And in our sport it's very common to run a split gear ratio between front and rear axle, I know it sounds messed up and that it would cause allot of problems but if done correctly with quality parts it works quite well. I'm looking to change setups now to go to coil spring with sas and just trying to see some different setups as far as spring ratio, shock ratios and Trac bar setups.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And for those that still think a gear ratio split won't work without messing stuff up. Current setup is factory ifs(3.55) and Dana 60 rear(4.10) with a high compression 409 stroker, this has been my current setup for 4 years and haven't broke anything what so ever
 

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When you said mud bogging in the first post, I thought you just meant playing around in the mud. I know nothing about mud drags so maybe the setups you describe do work. I don't know. :shrug
 

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And for those that still think a gear ratio split won't work without messing stuff up. Current setup is factory ifs(3.55) and Dana 60 rear(4.10) with a high compression 409 stroker, this has been my current setup for 4 years and haven't broke anything what so ever

Dirt and mud, sure you most likely won't break anything if the tires are spinning. Once you hit pavement or a hard dirt road, if you're still in 4wd, that's a different story.
 

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When you blow apart the hubs on the dana 44 or bust the diff you was warned over and over.As far as the price of a dana 60 the 70s ones are high but the 90s and super duty ones are still cheap enough if you know where to look for them.
 

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Coils on the front, leafs on the back. I also agree, 44 will implode. Especially with the way you're talking about using it. For a street ride and occasional trails I'd say it would be great, but if you're going through the effort just get a 60 front.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you guys are all so right about a Dana 44 axle standing up to the abuse then explain to me why I havent gernaded the factory ifs axle pushing close to 500 horse with the gear split I'm running now?! This setup has held true for 4 years now...
 

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well I think it just has a lot to do with the the way your using it. if you are just using it in the mud drags then that would probably be why and some luck. I had 39.5 boggers on my ttb set up for a while and the only thing I broke was a hub but I was always easy on it. it tore the crap out of everything elts though. it cracked the tab on the side of the third and the cross member pretty bad.

I think if you run stock hubs and chromo axles then the hub will be like a fuse of sorts I hear a lot of guys breaking hubs instead of axles with that set up but there also doing trails and not mud drags. its a lot easier and cheaper to replace hubs then axles. that's what im going to do anyways I have a 44 and 37's
 
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