hey ive been searching for a while now and i was wondering if anyone knows wehre theres a writeup on replacing the gasket on the dana 44 ttb. thats defintly where it is coming from and i do a decent amopunt of miles everyweek and need to get this fixed quickly, im sure if i start pullin everything aprt i can figure it outbut id like to be able to follow somthing and get through it quickly
dana 44 ttb leaking
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Well i did it and its a pain i ended up taking the hole front end apart to replace the seal but after i did i figured out how i should of done it so here u go...tare the driver side wheel off and then take the caliper off then you can get to the upper and lower ball joints I tryed breaking mine loose by hand tools and couldn't get them so hopefully You have air tools.. When you get tha nuts off the rotor and hub assenbly will come off and the axel shaft will come right out. Take the drive shaft off and undo the 4 bolts on the other side of diff housing that holds the axel shaft in on the passanger side.. put a trans jack under the diff housing undo the 2 bolts on the driver side that holds the housing to the i beam after that only 10 more bolts to take off and look out the fun begins the hole thing comes apart you can replace the seal and put it all back together.. Dont try to do this with out a trans jack the diff weighs about 100+ lbs.. Here is a diagram of the hole suspention..
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:goodfinge
anyone else, one person says on thing and another says another thing. is there a writeup, i tried looking but had no luck
There's no writeup that I'm aware of.
Here's steps, off the top of my head:
1. Safely lift and support the front end.
2. remove wheels.
3. remove brake calipers, support with wire (don't let them hang by the hose).
4. remove locking hubs.
5. remove bearing retaining nuts and outer bearing.
6. remove rotor/hub assembly.
7. remove ABS sensor and shield, if equipped.
8. remove spindles.
9. pull front driveshaft, driver's axleshaft, and passenger's outer axleshaft.
10. remove bolts holding "pumpkin" (center section of Dana44) in place. There're quite a few of them. Use a jack to hold up the pumpkin while you unbolt it. It'll drain out the rest of its fluid at some point.
11. clean and inspect stuff, drill and tap pumpkin while it's out for drain plug, put a new lubelocker gasket on, put the pumpkin back in. Maybe convert to D-50 inner passenger knuckle, or at least go clipless.
12. check and replace front u-joints as necessary (as long as you've got them out). Also check and replace ball-joints, if necessary, as long as you've got it torn down this far. Check the tie-rod ends, too. Check the u-joints in the front driveshaft, too. Maybe send it out and have it balanced.
13. replace or regrease your spindle bearings, and repack your wheel bearings. Use synthetic grease for everything.
14. re-assemble everything you took apart. Do a brake job, if necessary. Lube your locking hubs. Lube the slipjoint in the front driveshaft and the passenger axleshaft. (use ford part number XG-8 for those three jobs). Mark the driveshaft when you have it apart, so that you index the splines correctly putting it back together.
15. refill the pumpkin with synthetic (royal purple or something like that)
16. put the wheels back on.
17. put the front end back down on the ground.
18. torque the lugnuts properly, and check them again in 50-100 miles.
Obviously, this doesn't cover "how to do" all of those steps, but you can find nearly all of them in the Haynes manual, and just about all of them by searching this site.
Here's steps, off the top of my head:
1. Safely lift and support the front end.
2. remove wheels.
3. remove brake calipers, support with wire (don't let them hang by the hose).
4. remove locking hubs.
5. remove bearing retaining nuts and outer bearing.
6. remove rotor/hub assembly.
7. remove ABS sensor and shield, if equipped.
8. remove spindles.
9. pull front driveshaft, driver's axleshaft, and passenger's outer axleshaft.
10. remove bolts holding "pumpkin" (center section of Dana44) in place. There're quite a few of them. Use a jack to hold up the pumpkin while you unbolt it. It'll drain out the rest of its fluid at some point.
11. clean and inspect stuff, drill and tap pumpkin while it's out for drain plug, put a new lubelocker gasket on, put the pumpkin back in. Maybe convert to D-50 inner passenger knuckle, or at least go clipless.
12. check and replace front u-joints as necessary (as long as you've got them out). Also check and replace ball-joints, if necessary, as long as you've got it torn down this far. Check the tie-rod ends, too. Check the u-joints in the front driveshaft, too. Maybe send it out and have it balanced.
13. replace or regrease your spindle bearings, and repack your wheel bearings. Use synthetic grease for everything.
14. re-assemble everything you took apart. Do a brake job, if necessary. Lube your locking hubs. Lube the slipjoint in the front driveshaft and the passenger axleshaft. (use ford part number XG-8 for those three jobs). Mark the driveshaft when you have it apart, so that you index the splines correctly putting it back together.
15. refill the pumpkin with synthetic (royal purple or something like that)
16. put the wheels back on.
17. put the front end back down on the ground.
18. torque the lugnuts properly, and check them again in 50-100 miles.
Obviously, this doesn't cover "how to do" all of those steps, but you can find nearly all of them in the Haynes manual, and just about all of them by searching this site.
thanks man that made everything a lot clearer but i think i can do it no problem, how long you think it will take or wat does alldata give you? also what was it you were talking about converting to a d-50 inned passenger knuckle or go clip less? once other thing (use ford part number XG-8 for those three jobs) is the the lube your talking about
Instead of the Dana 44 inner passenger axleshaft, you can use one from a Dana 50, which uses a bigger, stronger u-joint. You can't use a c-clip with it, though, so you need to add a spring to the slip joint in the axle and tack-weld the cap to the slipjoint in. Search on here, there's a couple of good write-ups on it. If you don't want to replace the inner axleshaft, you can still pull the c-clip on the stock axleshaft (and put the spring in the slip joint), so if you ever blow the inner u-joint you can change it on the trail without doing *all* the stuff I listed.
It'd take me a weekend, but I'd be replacing/cleaning/inspecting *everything*. I'd have a whole new front end when I'm done. I'm actually planning on this sometime this summer, still gathering parts. I'm kind of a slow worker on my own, though. If you and a buddy really got on it, and had every tool you'd need, including a press for u-joints and ball-joints and such, and air tools (impact gun, especially), you could probably knock it out in a long day, if it's your first time tearing down the TTB.
Yes, XG-8 is the lube to use to lube auto-hubs and slip joints. That's the part number for a 3 ounce tube, which is about $7 at the dealership, and plenty for the whole truck.
Oh, and I screwed up. The center of the D44 on a TTB is called the "chunk", not the pumpkin.
It'd take me a weekend, but I'd be replacing/cleaning/inspecting *everything*. I'd have a whole new front end when I'm done. I'm actually planning on this sometime this summer, still gathering parts. I'm kind of a slow worker on my own, though. If you and a buddy really got on it, and had every tool you'd need, including a press for u-joints and ball-joints and such, and air tools (impact gun, especially), you could probably knock it out in a long day, if it's your first time tearing down the TTB.
Yes, XG-8 is the lube to use to lube auto-hubs and slip joints. That's the part number for a 3 ounce tube, which is about $7 at the dealership, and plenty for the whole truck.
Oh, and I screwed up. The center of the D44 on a TTB is called the "chunk", not the pumpkin.
ok col thanks man, ya i dnt no about goin to the d-50 right now, since i dnt have on avaiable and im gona do it saterday at work so i figure i got from 3 on saterday to whenever and all day sunday i should be good for monday, and ya i got all the tools and a press and baljoint tools, i wish i had the money to put warn hubs in rite now and i just got 6 edelebrock ias for 150(sweet deal) so im gona get the new bushings for this and throw those in and hopfuly i can get new ball joints, what else should be replaced while aprat
If you're gonna do shocks and bushings too, that's gonna be a long weekend. It's the right time to do it, while everything is torn down, but be prepared to work hard non-stop. Start soaking every bolt you can see in PB'laster or Kroil now, so some of them might move on Saturday.
If you do the clipless conversion on the inner passenger axleshaft, you can change over to the D50 stub whenever, just by pulling the rotor and spindle on the passenger side and pulling out both the inner and outer axle shafts.
Search for the writeups for everything, so that you are comfortable with how to do all the steps. Don't hurt yourself with the chunk, it's not light.
You can change the hubs whenever. Depending on how your bearing retainers are set up, you might not even need to lift the front or pull the wheel to change hubs.
Get a Haynes, it covers a *lot* of the stuff above.
I've heard good things about LubeLocker gaskets, and I've got a couple in my parts box for when I get to these jobs. If you can, you may want to order one.
Also search for and read the writeup on drilling and tapping the chunk for a drain plug. It's a good thing to do while it's out, to make changing the front fluid a lot easier later.
If you do the clipless conversion on the inner passenger axleshaft, you can change over to the D50 stub whenever, just by pulling the rotor and spindle on the passenger side and pulling out both the inner and outer axle shafts.
Search for the writeups for everything, so that you are comfortable with how to do all the steps. Don't hurt yourself with the chunk, it's not light.
You can change the hubs whenever. Depending on how your bearing retainers are set up, you might not even need to lift the front or pull the wheel to change hubs.
Get a Haynes, it covers a *lot* of the stuff above.
I've heard good things about LubeLocker gaskets, and I've got a couple in my parts box for when I get to these jobs. If you can, you may want to order one.
Also search for and read the writeup on drilling and tapping the chunk for a drain plug. It's a good thing to do while it's out, to make changing the front fluid a lot easier later.
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