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I have a chance for a free dana 60 out of a 79 F250. Some guys on here had said that won't be much of an upgrade. i'm lookin for some thoughts on this subject. at the least a guess i could sell it.
 

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It's arguable that going full float is beneficial...I have found it so. But as far as strength..they are not much different.

Also plentiful and cheap as dirt around here...not a money maker by any means.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Really, i had always thought they were more stout. i'm running 38.5 x14.5 swampers and it seems everyone wants 8 lug.
 

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I am about to put in a dana 60 to replace my 9", mainly because it is already built with 4:56 gears and tru lock and I got a great deal on some 8 lug wheels/tires
 

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Really, i had always thought they were more stout. i'm running 38.5 x14.5 swampers and it seems everyone wants 8 lug.
They CAN be stout..if you bore the spindles and go with aftermarket 35-spline axles..just finished up a set last night in fact and am getting ready to do another D60 the same. The stock 30-spline D60 axles are about same strength as 9" 31-spline stock axles and little strength difference in center section between the two either..
 

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so this makes very little sense to me that you guys are putting a D60 and a 9" so close together in the strength department. For one thing, the 60 is already a full floater, which if you are going to wheel it and break and axle shaft, is a true blessing. Secondly, 9s are very similar to 8.8s in terms of strength. The 8.8 has a couple of weak points that the 9 doesnt have, but the actual axle shafts themselves and the differential are quite comparable. The D60 is a one ton axle, and its a lot stronger than an 8.8, and a 9, i would go with it hands down... why not, its free.
 

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I did not have good luck with 9"ers in general with my first bronc. A detroit on the 9" and 38's ended the life of 3-4, 9" rears. The casing metal around the extra pinion bearing is very thin and I broke it a couple times. I also blew out both main bearing caps once and the ring gear cut a hole right through the back of the case. I do have this 78 beater now that I have not had problems with. It's on 36's, spooled with a stock 351m/auto. I don't consider that a great example as it's got very little power or gearing and has not been run that often.

Contrast that with the stock D60 rear, also detroited and stock geared. Ran that with 44 boggers until I got the 14 bolt. Even with stock gears (435 trans) and stock low range, it had enough power to snap rear axle shafts at will, but nothing else ever went wrong with that rear (including detroit, which now seems odd compared to all the detroit blow out stories I've heard after breaking an axle). I broke probably 12 axle shafts over the course fo 2 years.

As bill mentoned, they can be decent if going to 35 spline shafts, but that effort is usually not worth it since you can get 10.25 rears that bolt in for also almost next to nothing and they have the stout shafts already.
 

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The D60 is a one ton axle
Nope. A D60 rear is a 3/4 ton axle. That aside, it is a better option than a 9" for the reasons already stated, mainly being a full floater. Also, isn't the ring gear and pinion bigger/more stout than a 9", too?
 

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so this makes very little sense to me that you guys are putting a D60 and a 9" so close together in the strength department. For one thing, the 60 is already a full floater, which if you are going to wheel it and break and axle shaft, is a true blessing. Secondly, 9s are very similar to 8.8s in terms of strength. The 8.8 has a couple of weak points that the 9 doesnt have, but the actual axle shafts themselves and the differential are quite comparable. The D60 is a one ton axle, and its a lot stronger than an 8.8, and a 9, i would go with it hands down... why not, its free.
I run D60s in just about all of my rigs..upgraded to 35-spline where I'm needing that. I ended up with piles of them so that is waht I use. The full-floater aspect is, to me, a very good feature. All I was pointing out - and as Ox reinforced - is that the the D60 stock axles are not stronger than those in a Ford 9. Of course, when you break the axle in a 9", you have bigger problems compared to breaking one in the D60, thanks to the full-float design.

As far as '1-ton'..what does that mean or imply as far as strength goes? Nothing that I have seen, considering how many 3/4-ton trucks were built with 'weak sister' D44s in the front that break like matchsticks.

Edit: BTW..35-spline Yukons are only 199/pair or thereabouts.
 

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The 8.8 has a couple of weak points that the 9 doesnt have, but the actual axle shafts themselves and the differential are quite comparable. The D60 is a one ton axle, and its a lot stronger than an 8.8, and a 9, i would go with it hands down... why not, its free.
No, the diff's are quite different with the 9" having tremendous contact
area on the gears compared to an 8.8. in stock form. Now without
an aftermarket casing, I feel the 9 is no stronger than an 8.8, but it
is not due to the overall design of the differential.

Add to that the fact that the 9" axle is not "31 spline" dia where the
outer bearing rides. Where that shear load sits on the outer bearing is
much larger than 1.31 inches. See stock 31 spline 9" shaft on left (stock
28 spline EB shaft on right). I don't recall if the 8.8. has this large ramp
up near the bearing surface or not, but comparing the 9" and D60
axle strength just based on the inner end of axle dia and saying
they are the same (so the win theoreticlaly goes to the full floater)
is not the entire story.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
So i should be looking for a steling 10.25
 

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Nope. A D60 rear is a 3/4 ton axle. That aside, it is a better option than a 9" for the reasons already stated, mainly being a full floater. Also, isn't the ring gear and pinion bigger/more stout than a 9", too?
Nope, a D60 rear axle is stock in 4WD 1 tons until the 10.25 came out. Only 2WD got D70's (and possibly some 4WD diesels). Some got D61's in the early 80s'.
 

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Somebody needs to make an "emoticon" or whatever of 2 smilies with tails (smiley dogs) barking at each other...

I'd agree, if it's a full floater and it is free go for it. If it has the gears you want and/or a locker even better. If it isn't a full floater (I thought some D60's are semi-floaters?) or it has different gears than you would ever want to run I'd probably pass. D60 rears only go for around $100 and even at that it's really only worth it if somebody really needs one or if it is set up the way they want.
 

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$100.....I wish I could find those. Down here in fl around $200-$300. of course mine already had gears in it
 

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as long as we are on axles. What should I run on my front of a 79 bronco. 8 lug. best way to go and easy on the wallet
 

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a 9 inch can be made dadgum bulletproof if you have the money, new third member house, or a high 9, 35 spline shafts, etc. Im not sure if anoyone ever converts them to full float

I don't think a d60 diff can be made as strong as a 9inch because of the lack of the 3rd pinion bearing, but most people aren't gonna break the diff anyway. d60 is full float, but the shafts are 31 spline, can be upgraded to 35 spline thou. Some d60s had the big bore spindles i believe. But also i thought i heard that some 60s has some screwy 16 splin shafts as well.

also, as far as full float axles go, the d60 is gonna give you probably hte best ground cleaerance in stock form compared to a d70 or 10.25 or 14bolt.
Also, you can put a toner ring on a d60 if needed. i don't think its been done on a 70 or 14 bolt.

I would say the 60 is stronger than the 9 inch in stock form.
 
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