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I am in no hurry to rebuild this but am working on getting the parts together. I am likely going with an 4340 alloy axle shaft kit with full circle clips and yukon joints with 4.88's and an ARB. Not sure where I am sourcing the shafts from yet. Recomendations? I have looked at a ton of sites so I think I just need to make up my mind. I have two other questions. First can the ball joint style axle run a high steer setup? I can only find a high steer kit for the Kingpin style axles. Also I need new spindles. I have seen them on JBG for $75 and again somewhere else (I forget) that were $200+. I want to go with the best of everything so I am wondering about the $75 JBG ones. Anyone know about the quality of those? Should I just go with Ford OEM? Is a spindle a spindle or are there good and bad ones? Other than those two things I think I should be good to go. I am going to get all new ball joints, bearings and seals along with Warn Premiums so all thats easy. I already have the new calipers, rotors and pads. New ARB with master install kit and new pinion yoke. Aside from the spindle nut socket is there any other special tool I will need? I am having a friend setup the ARB/gears at his shop. Am I missing anything? Thanks for the help and advice.
 

· is hazardous to others
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I would think that a spicer u-joint in the front axle shafts would be a better deal for the price, they are strong enough. i'm running some 4340 Chrome-Moly 35 spline outer shafts from broncograveyard. and factory inners with spicer joints. i originally had the warn premium hubs in untell i broke them.. so now i am running flanges. so you might be able to save some $ by using spicer joints instead of the yukon. here is a link that might have the shafts you need/want. i just got the "no name"(they just say Chrome-Moly) ones, they are really Yukons.(or so i'm told)
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-409_dana_60_axle_shafts.htm
 

· ....ehhh
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I want to go with the best of everything... Am I missing anything? ......
Are you building a show truck or a wheeler?

the best of everything can mean two different things.

I would second the drive flanges, not premium hubs, if it is going to be a wheeler... oem ball joint knuckles are not high steer capable...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are you building a show truck or a wheeler?

the best of everything can mean two different things...
Yeah I realized that when I was typing it. What I mean is quality shafts and joints (not CTM's) along with an ARB, and quality bearings, seals and steering. I was also wondering about the quality of the spindle on JBG. Sucks I can't do high steer with my ball joints. The three things I was really focusing on with the "best of everything" statement were the shafts, gears, and spindle. It is not a dedicated wheeler as I use it for skiing trips, camping trips and general use. So I want the selectable hubs. I have had Warn Premiums for 10 years on my 44 TTB and never broke one. If they truly do break on a 60 thats not necessarily a bad thing. I would rather my hub be my "fuse" than a joint or shaft. They are easy to replace on the trail as long as I cary a spare.
 

· Formerly vt89gtvert
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dynatrac used to make high steer knuckles for the ball joint axles.

as for shafts, yukons are good in a D60, bad in a D44. I would just run spicer 5-806x u-joints, and if your afraid you can dump a little more cash into those joints and have them cryo'd. I wheeled hard on the first set I had in my 60 and that was with stock spicer 35 spline shafts and I finally ripped the ears off the stub shaft yet the trunion of the u-joint was not broken.

Ford uses spicer spindles. Dunno about JBG, but if you find a spicer dealer you can get them alot cheaper than from Ford.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the input guys. I am looking at JBG and Completeoffroad.com for the parts. I think I am all good except for the steering. I don't want to spend another $700 for knuckles just for high steer. But I do want to do better than the stock F350 setup. I've been searching here and google for a while and can't find anything I like for a ball joint knuckle setup. Any ideas or links to stuff?
 

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BB by the sounds of it your not going to be wheeling this thing that hard. I just recommend you get the reamer and put your steering on the top of the knuckles, and get the links made by someone who taps the DOM rather than welding in the bungs. Use the GM TRE's and call it good.

you will have many years of trouble free service from that setup.
 

· is hazardous to others
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the problem with the warn hubs is that when you upgrade to the 35 spline outers the only part of the hub that is Diff from the 30 spline hubs is the splined part that goes over the axle shaft. its alot thinner on the hubs in the 35 spline count. and thats the part that breaks. if you don't wheel too hard they should last awile. the reason i switched to drive flanges is mine is only used for wheelin and i really don't need to unlock them. infact i was having problems with the hubs unlocking themselfs. so flanges are just better for me.
also doin what jopes said for the steering should work great. it will get it up out of the way alittle better then the factory stuff.
 

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BB by the sounds of it your not going to be wheeling this thing that hard. I just recommend you get the reamer and put your steering on the top of the knuckles, and get the links made by someone who taps the DOM rather than welding in the bungs. Use the GM TRE's and call it good.

you will have many years of trouble free service from that setup.
:stupid


partsmike.com likely can source spicer D60 spindles reasonable as well (you can get your steering stuff from them).
 

· Formerly vt89gtvert
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· Formerly vt89gtvert
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:scratchhe
What are we missing? Sure looks to me like I would need those knuckles. Not worth it IMO.
Sorry,

I was telling myself to read the bottom line. Calling myself an idiot....
 
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