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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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8,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #203
Thanks guys :thumbup

This is still my DD, so ive been trying to make it at least semi-nice :toothless

Now hopefully the HNR/bed-liner does the job and its not too loud inside :uhoh3
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
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8,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #205
Couple extra pics i took earlier:



I masked off & sprayed the rocker where it always gets beat up from climbing in/out



...and i got my RedHead installed :imp




Took it out for a test drive earlier. As youd expect, the RedHead box is awesome, steering is great now. The steering wheel is crooked tho, so ill have to adjust that tomorrow.

As for the interior.....its pretty nice! The combo of Heat & Noise Reducer/BedLiner works great; if its any louder than it was with the full interior installed, i cant really tell :cool: Really impressed with this stuff, especially the HNR. My 88 bronco had rhino-liner sprayed in the interior, and i remember thinking it was louder than with the full interior, but this really does seem to me to be damn near the same noise level as the full stock interior.





If the pics are weird, reload your browser, i added some pics in the middle and had to rename a couple files. It all correct, trust me :toothless
 

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Premium Member
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3,153 Posts
...and i got my RedHead installed :imp
My redhead was by far the tightest box I've ever had.
It was really surprising too, as I've had some pretty low mileage
original broncs back in the day.
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
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8,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #207
Its awesome. With the whole front-end rebuilt a year-ish ago, plus this new box, it handles amazing.
Actually, the old box was apparently worn enough that now the wheel is crooked :toothless Gonna go out later and center it up.

The redhead on the diesel is still doing great too. Ill probably end up getting a third from them for the big one once its closer to being done.



ive got a few more things im working on for this one right now, should be done in ~ a week i think.
 

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Premium Member
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7,132 Posts
Been driving the shit out of this thing, so naturally, the one thing I didn't touch, would need work.



I had this really neat noise under load (thinking going up hill), and then a rumble going down the other side of the hill (which sounded like it was coming from the rear axle). So I split the tcase open to inspect:


the arm for the oil pump has worn a pretty deep groove into the tcase housing. it makes this cool (not really) rattly noise under load which sounds like bad bearings.


Long story short, I stripped her clean


bought a bearing kit & a pump kit off ebay just in case. I changed all the bearings. Didn't really need the pump kit, but I used it anyway cuz I was already in there. Then welded a tab to the original arm, so it cant rattle around in there anymore


That's pretty much it. I suppose I coudve taken more pics, but allfordman already has an awesome thread on how to rebuild the BW1356, located here.

Needless to say, the tcase is nice and quiet now. Well worth tearing into now, before the pump finally failed.
I think this is the same think that going on with mine. Started the other day and has gotten worse. I have another case I can swap in.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
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8,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #209
If you grabbed the input shaft and moved it back and forth, the tcase made a noise similar to shaking a rattle can. It was pretty wild.
http://4x4.forensick.net/96bronco/images/tcase/00.mp4


Open up the spare case and make sure its ok before you swap it in. Its really not that bad of a job to do. You have to glue the RTV case halves back together, which is the only reason you cant do it in an afternoon.
 

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Premium Member
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7,132 Posts
If you grabbed the input shaft and moved it back and forth, the tcase made a noise similar to shaking a rattle can. It was pretty wild.
http://4x4.forensick.net/96bronco/images/tcase/00.mp4


Open up the spare case and make sure its ok before you swap it in. Its really not that bad of a job to do. You have to glue the RTV case halves back together, which is the only reason you cant do it in an afternoon.
Yeah its started ,making a slight vibration and then i heard this clicking noise, inspected everything else and did some research and seems to be the same noise i'm hearing
This one came out of my bronco when i thought i broke it, but used one did the same thing should be ok for now. Just need to get is going, i'll crack this one open after its out.
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
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8,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #213
Thanks :thumbup Ive got at least one more update coming next week to complete this round of work, so keep watching :thumbup

that f250 isn't rotted imo
Pics are deceiving. She was one of the rustiest trucks ive ever bought.
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
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8,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #214
Here we go!

I was holding off on this update until i got everything done, because it all kind of ties together. That said.....



After finshing the interior, i decided i might as well deal with the rust on the exterior. Fortunately, there really isnt much, except for this:


Fixing it required doing something that probably everyone was waiting for.....


The running boards are off :toothless



Anyways.......










At the same time, i added a set of Bushwacker's Street Flares, which are the smallest of the 3 they offer.






 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
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8,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #215
So the flares interfere with the rubber arches for the running boards. I dont want to hack them up (id rather keep them unmolested), so that means i need to build something else to replace them.

This is a set of steps i built for a buddy years ago, for his quad cab. He no longer has a use for them, so i got them back. They wont work for a short bronco, but the material is salvageable.


Cutting them up


Ok, now the correct length, and notches cut/ boxed to clear the front fender bolt


The rough idea, same as what everyone else does. You can see i was working on these while fixing the fender


The difference is im going to add a step on the side, to make it easier to get the little guy in/out of his car seat. Mock-up with some scrap to get ideas




Building legs




capped the ends


fleshing out the step




Legs done!




Building the steps




Rock sliders!


Mocking up the step


Drilling holes. The steps will be removable, "just in case" it ends up at Rausch :toothless


Sleeving the holes with tube, so i dont have to worry about getting water inside the rail


All done and ground flush


Steps done! Using carriage bolts, so it only takes one wrench to install/remove.




 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
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8,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #216
And now, the finished product:
















:smokin:

So this pretty much finishes off this round of mods. Couple little things id still like to do, but for now im calling it done (again lol). So now the wife can rejoice, as i guess i can start working on the laundry room now :toothless
 

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Premium Member
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21 Posts
Hi quick question are you running the 5.0 or 5.8 ecm I just finished 351from 1997f250hd swap into a 1995 bronco 302 with mass air trying to see if ecm is why it is running rough thanks
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
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8,511 Posts
Discussion Starter #220 (Edited)
"How to Make A Simple Job Complicated" aka "Fixing" the Steering

So ive been chasing alignment issues. Basically, the theory is that the F250 pitman arm doesnt drop enough for the 2.5" lift, and its causing camber in turns. Truck looks good on a rack, but continues to wear the front tires. The obvious solution is a drop pitman arm. But thats too easy! So lets make it more complicated :p

Steering angles before we started:


So i bought some Ford tie rod sleeves from Sky Manufacturing


Hole drilled out to 7/8", sleeve going in with some red loctite


tie rod's new home


Check those angles, and that ground clearance!




Piece of cake, right? WRONG! Now the tie rods hit the sway bar. So, here we go!

Cut the end links in half. I extended them about 1.5" using 3/4" steel rod; i thought i had a pic but apparently i dont.


Endlink halves reinstalled, but on the opposite side of the bronco. 8" piece of 1" tubing to extend the link. Its crazy, but the way Ford made the bar, it totally fits just fine like this.


Decided to drill/bolt the 3 pieces together


...and just like that, sway bar disconnects!


New poly bushings....


...and done!


Bronco needs an inspection, so while its there im going to have them double check my driveway alignment, see how far off i got it. Only went around the block and that was before readjusting toe, so i cant give a final opinion on if it handles any better/worse yet.
 
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