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It's cold here in Canada, when I get in the Bronco the windshield fogs up and then the fog turns to frost. It takes about 30 minutes for the frost to thaw completely which is pretty annoying. Does anyone else have this problem? My 1980 doesn't have AC so I can't use it as a dehumidifier. Do you turn your windshield heater/fan on right away or let the truck warm up first?
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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In my old 88 with non functioning AC, I used Rain X anti-fog spray on the inside of all the glass and it worked pretty well. I put it on pretty liberally. I would turn on the defrost immediately and let it warm up. It took a few minutes but seemed to work.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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I think your non a/c 80 might be cable operated but double check your blend doors and such. If it is vacuum for sure check all those lines.
On both my 78 and 92 I have had isses with them sealing completely, and thus letting fresh air in and dilutting the heat.
Also maybe worth seeing if the core is plugged, or heater box.

In addition to the rain X as mentioned above.
 

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It's cold here in Canada, when I get in the Bronco the windshield fogs up and then the fog turns to frost. It takes about 30 minutes for the frost to thaw completely which is pretty annoying. Does anyone else have this problem? My 1980 doesn't have AC so I can't use it as a dehumidifier. Do you turn your windshield heater/fan on right away or let the truck warm up first?
My 95 is a frost-clearing animal. So something might be wrong with yours. Is the air hot, plentiful, and coming out the right vents?

The engine takes a long time to warm up, and it's pointless to run the air while it's still coming to temperature.

But once the needle moves above "C", I like to put the heat on full blast, then crack a window or the side vent while driving around. If it's up near 0C and I have a coat and gloves, might just roll the window down all the way too. It's not exactly warm that way, but the truck cranks so much air that you know you can get warm in a hurry if you have to.
 

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Yo Ian,
"... How to defrost car windows fast: Find an empty spray bottle that you can fill with this solution (great to keep in the car for when you need it). Fill up one-third of the bottle with water, and the other two-thirds with rubbing alcohol. That’s right—just water and rubbing alcohol. And it works like absolute magic.
Why does this work so well? Because rubbing alcohol actually has a freezing point of 128 degrees below freezing, and it does a great job of quickly melting ice..." by Kisten L

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Is the defrost outlet flowing enough air that you can feel it??

As CrazyBRONCOguy advised, the temperature (heat/cool) blend door is cable operated. The door's hinge is known to be an issue.

"...If all the controls are functioning and you can actually see the cable moving the actuator lever, and you still can't get warm air then most likely your problem is going to be the blend temp door inside the HAVC box. The door is hinged by a piece of flexible plastic, the hinge wears out and breaks then it is not forced into the hot air position by the cable. I found a good one in the junk yard and replaced mine. You have to take most of the dash apart to get to the thing. It takes a while to complete this repair..." by darb at FSB
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Blend Door Replacement in 80-86; "...the air coming thru the heater core was hot. Now you're saying it's cooler by the time it makes it to the dash registers??? The only way for that to happen is for it to mix with cooler air in between. The most likely spot is at the temperature blend door. If it doesn't FULLY close off the cold side, you'd feel hot air if you remove the cover behind the glove box, but it would be cooler at whatever register you select (floor, dash, defrost). You have to pull either the heater core or the evaporator core to see the blend door. Obviously, the heater core is easier, but you don't have to open the A/C system to pull the evap. out..." by Steve

152979
 

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Make sure that you don't have a tiny leak in your heater core. If you smell the faintest hint of coolant, the moisture from the leaking heater core will add to the moisture in the truck and cause the windshield to frost (steam) over, just as it would if you blew your hot moist breath on the windows.
 

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I know the 80-86 trucks seem to have a weaker defrost. My 86 has a brand new blower motor, cleaned out cowl area and all new heater core and fresh seals on all the ducting. It still is far from powerful, it works but is pretty weak on defrost. I have an 88 f150 and the defroster on that works better. I think the newer trucks have better designed ducting.
 
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