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1991 ford bronco 5.0 with a e40d transmission

The truck started stalling out a couple of weeks ago while in reverse. I read some articles that stated that the filter will drop in the trans and cause these problems. I drained the trans and torq conv (fluid was pick and cloudy and there was minimal shavings on magnet) and replaced the fluid with a new filter and fluid (also added one of those filter clips). The truck continues to die in reverse and 1st. If you put it in D it will sometimes drive off and shift very hard or just bog down. So, I pulled the connector from the passenger side and cleaned it thoroughly and dried it out and plugged it back up. All the wires and connectors are fine. Still the same problem. The codes it is throwing is: 99,81,22 w KOErunning 12,13,34 w KOEoff.

Is this a sign that the electronic pressure control circut in the tranny is bad? Or, is the tranny just shot?
 

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A lot of times the e4od pump bushing will wear and bleed of torque converter release pressure. If you put it on jack stands and put in reverse without holding brakes will it stay running?
 

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I have not tried that. I went and put a new mlps ( just exchanged the old one under warranty) on it and it drove right for about five minutes. Then back to the old crap. It seemed to be running through the gears quickly when it was running down the road.
 

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It has been raining all day, so I have not been able to check it with the wheels jacked up. It keeps throwing code 99. That is the only one showing up now. Should I buy that solenoid pack for $300 and replace it? I just hate to spend that and there be other problems.
 

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\It keeps throwing code 99. That is the only one showing up now. \.
yo 94EBmaroon,
99
Filter Magnet; E4OD Kills Engine in Gear; "...works as a filter retainer; w/Ford PN and size; basically this is a magnet Ford uses to keep the filter in-place tightly into the pump; Ford pn F3RZ-7E290-AC..."

Source: by spxfiltran.com

in KOEO = Key On Engine Off & CM = Continues Memory; Electronic pressure control circuit failure (E4OD).
The Electronic Pressure Control solenoid is a variable force solenoid. The variable-force type solenoid is an electro-hydraulic actuator combining a solenoid and a regulating valve. It supplies electronic pressure control which regulates transmission line pressure and line modulator pressure. This is done by producing resisting forces to the main regulator and the line modulator circuits. These two pressures control clutch application pressures.
Symptoms: Failed on — minimum electronic pressure control pressure (minimum transmission torque capacity). Limit engine torque (partial fuel shut-off, heavy misfire). Flashing transmission control indicator lamp.
Failed off — maximum electronic pressure control pressure, harsh engagements and shifts. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.






I see you pulled the solenoid pack connector off; did you check for corroded pins etc.?
See this pin-point test for 99, but it is for a 94 and requires Break-Out Box; but if you can go through wiring diagrams, & could try the tests without that box.

Solenoid Pack Connector Pin-Out Diagram

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50)


Solenoid Body (see Image 7G391 Below);
Item Description
1 Shift Solenoid 1 (Part of 7G391)
2 Shift Solenoid 2 (Part of 7G391)
3 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid
(Part of 7G391)
4 Coast Clutch Solenoid (Part of 7G391)
5 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Location (Part of 7G391)
6 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid
(Part of 7G391)



Solenoid Resistance Tests (ohms); "...Shift Solenoid 1: 20-30 Shift Solenoid 2: 20-30 Torque Converter Solenoid: 20-30 Coast Clutch Solenoid: 20-30 Electronic Pressure Control: 4.0-6.5..." READ MORE
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47918

I don't have anymore diagrams or a Ford pin-point test for your 91 E4OD, yet.
Some info from Baumann "If this circuit fails line pressure should go to full at all times. The full line pressure puts a good deal of extra load on the engine, and will usually effect the idle. It is especially noticeable if your engine is already in need of a tuneup. You will need to check the electronic pressure control solenoid and its wiring. Either of these could be causing the EPC code."


=========

Key On Engine Running; EEC system hasn't learned to control idle
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info. I will start checking it. The motor has had a complete tune up (wires, cap, plugs, coil, etc). It will idle fine in park, neutral, and drive. However it will have a hard shift when going into reverse then it will die. The same thing happens in 1. The connector looked fine, but I cleaned it thoroughly anyway. I reset the computer and it worked fine for a little while in all dears, but then it was back to the dying in reverse and hardly pulling in D. However, if you crank it up and put in D, you can drive it with no problems ( unless it starts to bog down), it just seems to go through the gears very quickly.
 

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A friend of mine had a new Pressure control solenoid for the trans. Put it in and topped off the fluids. It was running fine up and down the road then it would stumble in drive and shut off. It also started dying in reverse again. So, I pulled the codes:
KOEO 12 23 34

KOER 99 81 22

The engine runs perfectly in Park or neutral. No hesitation or missing.

Could the code 81 have something to do with it?
 

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Just to follow up on the status of the truck.

I pulled the throttle body and gave it a good cleaning, along with the IAC. I replaced the TPS sensor in the process. The truck runs perfectly now in all gears.:thumbup No hesitation, bogging, or dying. The solenoid pack in the tranny might have been overboard, however the trans responds better now then when I was driving the truck with no issues. I am sure the fluid and filter change also have helped. When purchasing a used vehicle, you never now what the previous owner did to the vehicle.:twak
 

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yo 94,
Great!

DTC 81/553 and 82/552 indicate voltage output for secondary air injection solenoid did not change when activated. Possible causes for this fault are:
as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead;
EEC Connector Pin Diagram
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at http://web.archive.org/web/20131229163930/http://oldfuelinjection.com/images/eec04.gif

EEC Connector Pin LEGEND Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8; miesk5 Note, see his Connector Pin Diagram Link above)
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://web.archive.org/web/20131029020805/http://oldfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html

• AIRB/AIRD circuit(s) shorted or open.
• Fault in solenoid or PCM.

Disconnect both solenoid connectors. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between VPWR terminal of wiring harness connector and battery ground for both solenoids. If either voltage reading is less than 10.5 volts, repair wiring harness open circuit, and repeat QUICK TEST. If both readings are 10.5 volts or more, go to step 9).

9)Measure Solenoid Resistance :
Turn ignition off. Leave solenoid connectors disconnected. Measure resistance of both solenoids. If either reading is not 50-100 ohms, replace solenoid assembly and repeat QUICK TEST. If both readings are 50-100 ohms, go to step 10).

10) Check Circuit Continuity :
Leave ignition off. Disconnect PCM 60-pin connector. Inspect terminals, and repair if damaged. Install EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EEC-IV), leaving PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between AIRB test pin and AIRB terminal at wiring harness connector. Measure resistance between AIRD test pin and AIRD terminal at wiring harness connector. If either reading is 5 ohms or more, repair open circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. If both readings are less than 5 ohms, go to step 11).

11) Check For Short To Ground :
Leave ignition off and solenoids disconnected. Measure resistance between test pin No. 51 and test pins No. 40, 46 and 60 at breakout box. Measure resistance between test pin No. 11 and test pins No. 40, 46 and 60. If any reading is less than 10,000 ohms, repair short to ground and repeat QUICK TEST. If all readings are 10,000 ohms or more, go to step 12).

12) Check For Short To Power Circuit :
Turn ignition off. Measure resistance between test pin No. 51 and test pins No. 37 and 57 at break-out box. Measure resistance between test pin No. 11 and test pins No. 37 and 57 at breakout box. If any resistance is less than 10,000 ohms, repair short to power and repeat QUICK TEST. If code is repeated, replace PCM. If all resistances are 10,000 ohms or more, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST.


DTC 99 Transmission Control Indicator Lamp; "...That would probably be an EPC circuit failure. If this circuit fails line pressure should go to full at all times. The full line pressure puts a good deal of extra load on the engine, and will usually effect the idle. It is especially noticeable if your engine is already in need of a tuneup. You will need to check the electronic pressure control solenoid and its wiring. Either of these could be causing the EPC code..." miesk5 NOTE; So look under Bronco, for the Solenoid Body Connector - make sure it is still connected and clean inside; It's on the passenger side of the transmission. You'll need to remove a small heat shield (two bolts) next to the catalytic converter, and probably clean away a TON of gunk before yanking it. Ford wasn't too bright in designing the placement of this connector. The connector has a single press-in tab latching it in place, IIRC; It looks like this, and there's only one locking tab on it technically. But if you look at the bottom of the picture, there's one of those Ford-style mechanisms that should (repeat should) separate upon pulling the connector. You may find it helpful to pinch both sides of the connector while pulling on the harness (it won't hurt the connector). The corrosion can really be a bitch to pull against. If you still can't pull it off, you may find it beneficial to use a flat-blade screwdriver and apply some leverage to it from underneath. Make sure you've got plenty of light under there to see all. Completely seat solenoid body connector into solenoid body assembly receptacle by pushing on the top of the connector. An audible click indicates full contact. Verify connection by pulling on harness. by SigEpBlue (Steve)
Source: by Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC becontrols.com


DTC 12 Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test high RPM check; vacuum leak, base idle off, idle air valve dirty or bad, EGR stuck open. Check the IAC valve port in TB for Sludge; Suspect throttle body coking.


DTC 22 or 126 indicates the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)/Barometric Pressure (BARO) sensor is out of Self-Test range. Correct MAP/BARO range of measurement is typically from 1.4 to 1.6 volts. Do NOT use an ordinary voltmeter to check a Ford BP/MAP sensor because doing so can damage the electronics inside the sensor. This type of sensor can only be diagnosed with a DVOM that displays frequency, or a scope or scan tool. Also make sure engine manifold vacuum is within specifications at idle. If vacuum is unusually low due to a vacuum leak, retarded ignition timing, an exhaust restriction (clogged converter), or an EGR leak (EGR valve not closing at idle). A low intake vacuum reading or excessive backpressure in the exhaust system can trick the MAP sensor into indicating there is a load on the engine. This may result in a rich fuel condition. A restriction in the air intake (such as a plugged air filter), on the other hand, may produce higher than normal vacuum readings. This would result in a load low indication from the MAP sensor and possibly a lean fuel condition. Possible causes: circuit open between sensor vehicle harness connector and PCM. circuit shorted to VREF, SIG RTN, or GND. Damaged MAP sensor. Vacuum trapped at MAP/BARO sensor. Unusually high/low barometric pressure. Kinked or obstructed vacuum lines (MAP). Basic engine (valves, vacuum leaks, timing, EGR valve, etc.). High atmospheric pressure. Damaged PCM. VREF circuit open at MAP sensor. SIG RTN circuit open at MAP sensor. The pinpoint test directs you to check the voltage to the MAP sensor. With the MAP sensor connected, use paper clips to back probe the MAP connector so you make contact with the terminals inside the connector by inserting the paper clips into the bak of the connector. This allows you to get voltage readings while the connector is plugged in. The other option is to use straight pins to pierce the insulation of the wires. First check the voltage of the outer two wires of the MAP connector by connecting a voltmeter to the clips or pins you have inserted. You should see 5 volts with the key on. This is the power to the sensor. The BLK/WHTwire provides a ground called Signal Return (SIG RTN on EEC), it will show 0 volts with the black probe on negative battery terminal. The 5 volts VREF (ON EEC) (Reference Voltage) is supplied on the ORG/White wire. The Signal the computer reads is on the middle wire, DK BLUE/-Lt GRN (MAP on EEC). The correct MAP/BARO range of measurement is typically from 1.4 to 1.6 volts on the Signal (middle wire). If any of the voltages are out of range, there is a wiring problem that needs to be tracked down and repaired. These three wires all go back to the computer. The signal wire (middle) is the only one not shared by other sensors, it goes straight to the computer. The Signal Return and VREF are also provided to other sensors..." Read More
Source: by miesk5 at FSB (http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202290)
Possible causes:

MAP/BARO circuit open between sensor vehicle harness connector and PCM.
MAP/BARO circuit shorted to VREF, SIG RTN, or GND.
Damaged MAP/BARO sensor.
Vacuum trapped at MAP/BARO sensor.
High atmospheric pressure.
Damaged PCM.
VREF circuit open at MAP/BARO sensor.
SIG RTN circuit open at MAP/BARO

DTC 23 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) out of range or throttle set too high; dirty/sticking/ Bad TPS, dirty throttle body, base idle mis-set

DTC 23, 53, 63, 121, 122, 123;
TPS Overview & Testing; "...The TPS is a three wire sensor that measures the throttle plate opening and its rate of change. This sensor is a variable resistor, also called a potentiometer, that is directly linked to the throttle plate shaft. The TPS outputs a voltage directly proportional to the throttle opening. As the accelerator is depressed the throttle plate opens and the TPS voltage increases. The TPS assists the PCM in determining transmission shift points, converter lock-up and along with the MAP and MAF sensor are main PCM indicators of acceleration and load. In other words, the PCM looks at these sensors to calculate engine operation upon acceleration. Let me preface by saying I do not believe that any Ford TPS requires adjustment unless you have played with your Throttle Plate Set Screw or have a performance application. The procedure is not mentioned in any Ford Factory or Engine, Emissions-Diagnosis Manual that I have seen. If you require an Adjustable TPS you must set it just below 1v, ideally between 0.96v-0.98v. This is because the PCM is programmed to observe the TPS Signal Voltage in three modes: Idle Mode, Less than 1v. Part Throttle Mode, Greater than 1v. WOT Mode, Greater than 3.7v (Breakpoint is Plus 2.7v). The 0.96v-0.98v. setting has been determined to be optimal as it minimizes time delay between Closed Throttle and Part Throttle which increases performance. This is where general TPS Adjustment Settings Instructions are directed and many mistakenly think it is all inclusive. The shop modification of drilling out the screw holes for additional adjustment is directed at people that use the incorrect TPS or cannot achieve the setting parameters due to intentional Throttle Body variences. On the other hand, EEC-IV Broncos use a Non-Adjustable TPS. Each time the key is turned on the PCM reads the Closed Throttle TPS voltage and places it in KAM memory as TPREL PID (or Ratch) Voltage. Ratch Voltage then becomes the baseline for Idle where the PCM assumes 0% Throttle Opening. The PCM is programmed for a voltage stairstep, (or Ratch), to Part Throttle and Wide Open Throttle (WOT) values. These stairstep values are based on the initial Closed Throttle readings and are determined each time the ignition key activates the PCM and TPS. Ratch Values: Closed Throttle, Initial Voltage Setting. Part Throttle, +0.02v above Closed Throttle. Wide Open Throttle, +2.71v above Closed Throttle. Even though the PCM determines Ratch Voltage with key on, there are different vehicle specifications for TPS Settings. This is to ensure that your TPS can operate within the full range of it's mechanical/electrical capability (In the case of my 1990 5.8L Bronco, this range is 0.34v-4.84v between 0-85 degrees rotation). As long as your settings are within the factory specified range, such as listed below, your TPS will be correct. TPS Settings: 1990 Bronco 4.9L - 0.73v to 1.22v. 1990 Bronco 5.0L - 0.73v to 1.22v. 1990 Bronco 5.8L - 0.73v to 1.22v. 1995 Bronco 4.9L - 0.65v to 1.28v. 1995 Bronco 5.0L - 0.65v to 1.28v. 1995 Bronco 5.8L - 0.65v to 1.28v. In either case, the PCM generally operates in Open loop on cold Start-up, Closed-Loop on warm idle/low-load cruising and Open-Loop during WOT. Open-Loop refers to shutting down the EGR, ignoring O2, ECT, ACT Sensor Input and relying upon programmed fuel maps. The TPS is advising the PCM through throttle modes when to go into Open or Close Loop Operations. And, as the TPS is an electrical/mechanical device, the TPS Sensor can wear out by developing dead spots which cause idle problems or hesitation usually in the most used lower range. Finally, Curb Idle and Fast Idle are controlled by the PCM and IAC and are not adjustable. This means adjusting your Throttle Plate Set Screw from the factory calibration will not allow the IAC to effectively control the rpm. This changes the Throttle Plate position potentially causing it to stick in the bore and it alters the TPS settings by either telling the PCM that you are always at Part Throttle or pushing it outside of setting specification. The Throttle Body Return Screw adjusts the Throttle Plate for Minimum Air Rate, which is the minimum amount of air required to maintain idle with the IAC unplugged. Plug the IAC in and the PCM is in control of your Idle. This means that you should not have to touch the Throttle Plate Set Screw unless someone has played with it or if you have a performance application which requires a higher Idle air flow. That is where you must adjust your TPS back to factory settings to compensate for the change in Throttle Plate position. As the Minimum Air Rate, Engine Load, TPS Sensor and the IAC are very closely linked, they must all work together to maintain a good idle. Idle problems can be caused by a myriad of other issues which should always be looked at first. These include ignition, fuel, spark, EGR,vacuum and PCV to name a few. Then the KOEO TPS Harness may be tested for Reference Voltage. The KOEO TPS Voltage may be back probed for baseline setting and a smooth increase thoughout the Throttle rotation. The unplugged TPS Sensor may be tested for Resistance also throughout the Throttle rotation. KOEO TPS Testing: KOEO TPS Reference Voltage, 5v (VREF/SIG RTN). KOEO TPS Signal Voltage, Less than 1v to 4.5v (TP SIG/SIG RTN while rotating Throttle). Unplugged TPS Resistance, Less than 4k ohms, Greater than 350 ohms (TP SIG/SIG RTN while rotating Throttle)..."
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/blog.php?b=681


Source: by miesk5 at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...=192956&page=2


I'll post up for now
 
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