Disk brakes 9" axle

8060 Views 25 Replies 10 Participants Last post by Fireguy50, May 7, 2004

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · May 2, 2004

New link for my brakes: http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/brakes.html

here is the post with all the troubles I had to sort out
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15385

I ended up using

$26.70 - 1984 Jeep CJ Rotors
$74.76 - 1990 4WD S10 Calipers (price is for both R & L & core charge)
$32.12 - 1990 4WD S10 Brake Hoses (price was for both R & L)
$15.54 - Custom Caliper Brakets from www.aa-mfg.com
$23.48 - 1977 Lincoln Town Car Master Cylinder (4wheel disk)
-------------------------
$172.60 - total so far

Don't always trust the NEW rotors are perfectly straight :banghead

I'm using brake hoses from the frame down to each caliper. Most calipers used for rear disk brake conversions are a GM floating style. Which slide back and forth over time. So you can't use solid brake line and expect it to last a long time.
Instead of using the stock brake hose, then 2 smaller hoses on the axle hosing. I'm using the above listed hoses, which are about 15" long:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/brake_hose3.jpg
They come with this fancy mount for the S10:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/brake_hose1.jpg
Which I didn't need, so I cut it off, carefully so not to cut or melt the hose:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/brake_hose2.jpg
You could also see the Nut, I bought to clamp it to the frame. My 86 Bronco Frame has these large holes in it from the factory just behind the shocks. So why drill more:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/frame_rail.jpg

This is what it looks like all set up on the axle housing. The hose comes a little close to the spring mount, I might trim it later, little over 1/4"
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/brake_hose4.jpg

This is at ride hight:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/at_ride_height.jpg
This is at full droop, stock rear suspension:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/at_full_droop.jpg
still a lot left in the brake hose, if you ever need more drill a hole lower on the frame.

I'll get pictures of the rotors and axle shafts later

See less See more

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

Stokes

· #2 · May 2, 2004

hmmm, when your done you should flex out the rear axle slowly to make shure your lines are long enough, i like what you did though!

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 2, 2004

did you read the post?
that picture is at full droop
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/at_full_droop.jpg
the axle can't go any lower, shocks are maxed out.

If I rip a shock mount off the frame / axle I still got ~6" of brake hose length.
Or I could mount to hose under the frame and gain another 4" of length.

Crazed

· #4 · May 2, 2004

Fireguy50 said:
did you read the post?
that picture is at full droop
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/at_full_droop.jpg
the axle can't go any lower, shocks are maxed out.

If I rip a shock mount off the frame / axle I still got ~6" of brake hose length.
Or I could mount to hose under the frame and gain another 4" of length.

Grouchy

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 2, 2004

Crazed said:
Grouchy

:shrug :duel :drinkbud :clap

Crazed

· #6 · May 2, 2004

:chili: :histerica :rockon :chili: :histerica :rockon

Zach94

· #7 · May 2, 2004

it'll drop lower when you flex as the shocks are mounted inboard of the brakes. :duel

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 2, 2004

:cry you know if I take another picture of my truck on a ramp, Keith will yell at me :cry

Zebrafive

· #9 · May 2, 2004

Its info like this that makes the forum great!

TRUCKY18

· #10 · May 2, 2004

i think we should all pitch in and buy ryan a can of POR15

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · #11 · May 2, 2004

TRUCKY18 said:
i think we should all pitch in and buy ryan a can of POR15

:shrug :brownbag :lolup :cry :banghead
don't bother, it's a lost cause. there isn't a piece of metal that isn't rotten
Some day I will have to find a new tub in a desert

bigric

· #12 · May 2, 2004

Looks good Ryan. Did you have to turn down the axles like they suggested in the other thread? The price certainly is right, and I'm about to start a front disc conversion on the '68, so a rear conversion on the 9" would round out the project.

Stokes

· #13 · May 2, 2004

Fireguy50 said:
did you read the post?
that picture is at full droop
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/at_full_droop.jpg
the axle can't go any lower, shocks are maxed out.

If I rip a shock mount off the frame / axle I still got ~6" of brake hose length.
Or I could mount to hose under the frame and gain another 4" of length.

oh your shocks are maxed out? sorry i didnt understand that, i just thought you took the weight off it, where as if you where flexing it the cab weight would through it farther, thats what i ment. otherwise it sounds like you need better shocks

TRUCKY18

· #14 · May 2, 2004

oh ya forgot to ask before, are those prices for new parts or used parts? Looks cool, do you know if some of that would work for the 8.8?

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · #15 · May 3, 2004

Actually Stokes, my shocks are not hooked up yet, those pictures have the axle ~2" lower than the maxed out shocks LOL

TRUCKY18, nothing I have is 9" axle only. Everything would work on the 8.8.
the caliper brakets weld on to the housing. Had to have the axle shafts machined for the rotors. machine 8.8 shafts and weld on the braketsm you are right where I'm at.

Only issue would be the master cylinder. If you have the plastic top style, you would want to look at the 97 F250 with rear disks, or the 98 Explorer with rear disks.

I'll have more pictures tomorrow, I slept all day

bigric

· #16 · May 3, 2004

Fireguy50 said:
I'll have more pictures tomorrow, I slept all day

Lazy bastard. You're here to serve us, remember?

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · #17 · May 4, 2004

Needed to machine the outside diameter down to fit inside the rotors:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/axle-shaft_flange.jpg
measurement is something like 6.25" :shrug
Also needed to machine the outside of the axle flange so it would be perfectly straight.
Disk might wobble if you don't do this!

Needed to have spacers made to go around the wheel studs to keep the rotors centered, and keep them from flopping back and forth:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/spacers.jpg
picture of the spacers and rotor on the axle 3 spacers on each side:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/disk-on-axle.jpg

Pictures of the complete brake set up on the axle:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/brake_setup01.jpg
http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/axle/brake_setup02.jpg

See less See more

81Bronk36

· #18 · May 4, 2004

OK Ryan reading threw both of your posts you never said what you did about proportioning?????? did you leave the original switch and just do the M/C????
Also on those spacers... what are those for exactly and where did you put them????

How much did turning down the axle flanges cost approx.???

Fireguy50

Discussion Starter · #19 · May 4, 2004

81Bronk36 said:
OK Ryan reading threw both of your posts you never said what you did about proportioning?????? did you leave the original switch and just do the M/C????

The 1977 Lincoln Town Car Master Cylinder is made for 4wheel disk brakes on a heavy car.
So I shouldn't need a proportioning valve. However I might depending on how finly tuned I want my brakes

81Bronk36 said:
Also on those spacers... what are those for exactly and where did you put them???

The spacers fit over the wheel studs. The ID of the holes in the rotor are larger than the studs. without the spacers the rotor won't be centered on the axle, and the rotor would flop forward / backward on the studs when you step on the brake or hit the gas.

81Bronk36 said:
How much did turning down the axle flanges cost approx.???

:shrug I have friends

that let me use their machine shop equiptment. Or do the work and let me help / watch.
I spent $50 in lunches to machine the axle shafts and make the custom spacers.

However, after the beginning machine work, every brake part is common at part stores. I don't have to call up Willwood or Baer for a new set of rotors & brake pads

Rockfrog

· #20 · May 4, 2004

Another possibility is to use front hub wheel studs in the rear axle flanges .... this should give the fit required to prevent movment of the rotor (might want to remove a SMALL amount from the press fit section to ease rotor removal later on, but not nessecary)
just an idea

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.