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Hi gang. I got a question pertaining to the sixlitre tuneup. As far as the distributor cap and rotor, what is the difference between a performance cap and rotor and a standard cap and rotor?
I think from what I read in other posts, the performance cap has brass contacts instead of aluminum or what ever the other contacts are. Is this correct?
In other words, as long as the cap contacts are brass, I should be good to go as far as the sixlitre tune up goes, correct?
Thanks
Bill
 

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Product quality of the manufacturer , brass contacts are better and YES defiantely go with the Sixlitre suggested set up.

Anyway you can get more performance out of these rigs is a plus ~ :chili:

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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I asked sixlitre pretty much the same question on the last page of the thread and he said as long as the cap and rotor were in good condition that you would be okay. I replaced my cap and rotor last spring with a stock replacement(not a prformance one) and I plan to add a coil, larger plug wires and plugs only. If I don't get the desired effect , THEN I will get a hi-po cap and rotor.
 

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crank trigger
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with a hotter coil and bigger wires you will be flowing more juice through the dist. better cap and rotor will hold up longer and perform better.
 

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msd or mollary.
that part house crap really dont work for long. i tried to safe a couple bucks on my setup ($10) melted the rotor in under 100 miles.

msd is what i have now. been on it for years with no problem.
 

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Very interesting. My intuition said to get a better cap and rotor but six thought otherwise. Maybe I will replace the cap and rotor then just to be safe...
 

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ok, i got a quick question for you all, i went got a distributor, the pin that holds the gear in kept comming out, i thought i had the right distributor didnt look at mine so i ordered with one vac pump had to special order, got it in went to change it and it was the wrong one, $74 and a $50 dollar core, so i took it back got the new one brought it home, and it is different then mine took it back and took my core that i hadnt returned back yet and couldnt find it, we looked through every year bronco from 81 to 96 still couldnt find the right one, so i just happened to think look at the f150s, sure enough a 86 f150 showed the same distributor and part number, so my question is why would it be a different distributor and a 170 dollar with no core isnt it the same unless someone changed it from a 85 to a 86 distributor, and how come not all are the same? my 83 and 85 are different, the 83 has a bigger distributor cap, by the way still cant get it to start but its been sitting for 2 years and it jumped time when the pin broke caught fire, gonna time it and see if i can get it to work tomorrow, if its not -10 below like the past 3 days. Another question the wires got melted only 4 were bad if its close to in time could i have mixed up the wires i replaced, or should i just replace the coil and the tmi module or go with the cheeper of the 2 first and see if it works. Thanks for any replys and i hope i am not overlooking anything simple, oh the wires were for the electric choke if it helps any
 

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ok, i got a quick question for you all, i went got a distributor, the pin that holds the gear in kept comming out, i thought i had the right distributor didnt look at mine so i ordered with one vac pump had to special order, got it in went to change it and it was the wrong one, $74 and a $50 dollar core, so i took it back got the new one brought it home, and it is different then mine took it back and took my core that i hadnt returned back yet and couldnt find it, we looked through every year bronco from 81 to 96 still couldnt find the right one, so i just happened to think look at the f150s, sure enough a 86 f150 showed the same distributor and part number, so my question is why would it be a different distributor and a 170 dollar with no core isnt it the same unless someone changed it from a 85 to a 86 distributor, and how come not all are the same? my 83 and 85 are different, the 83 has a bigger distributor cap, by the way still cant get it to start but its been sitting for 2 years and it jumped time when the pin broke caught fire, gonna time it and see if i can get it to work tomorrow, if its not -10 below like the past 3 days. Another question the wires got melted only 4 were bad if its close to in time could i have mixed up the wires i replaced, or should i just replace the coil and the tmi module or go with the cheeper of the 2 first and see if it works. Thanks for any replys and i hope i am not overlooking anything simple, oh the wires were for the electric choke if it helps any
roman is back in the jumble everything together and ramble on version.... FAWK:shocked:shocked:shocked
 

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lol, sorry havnt been to bed yet will try and post when i can make sense
 

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i just got excited thinking about driving a ford again instead of a chevy ha ha
 

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Hi gang. I got a question pertaining to the sixlitre tuneup. As far as the distributor cap and rotor, what is the difference between a performance cap and rotor and a standard cap and rotor?
I think from what I read in other posts, the performance cap has brass contacts instead of aluminum or what ever the other contacts are. Is this correct?
In other words, as long as the cap contacts are brass, I should be good to go as far as the sixlitre tune up goes, correct?
Thanks
Bill
My point is almost everybody's cap & rotor are identical nowadays. It used to be Jacobs made one with the bacalite three times thicker than anyone else's and pure brass terminals. Not anymore.

Knowing that, if you have zero arcing inside a nearly new cap, I'd blow the dough on better plug wires instead.

If you have the $$$ then go new for sure.

Sixlitre

p.s./
Highboy74 what was the question ?
 

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Even with my 9mm Ford Motor Sport Racing wires occasionally I have have burn thru problems with plug boot ends on # 2, 5 & 6 because of a design flaw IMO due to lack of clearance on the stock cast exhaust header around thoses areas PITA, so I'm checking and periodically changing boot ends. :banghead

NBD more of a PITA but I always save old wires and boots etc. just for that occasion. I just cut open the old, peel if off and use Diaelectric grease to slide on the new and I'm good to go for a while. :chili:

Thanks Six, you "Hollywoood Star" you! lol lol :cool:
 

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Food for thought here,

I bought a MSD cap, installed it and added a little silicone to prevent water from going in, and the first time I had to remove it to check the rotor the cap cracked. I will never buy another "high performance" cap again.
 

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Food for thought here,

I bought a MSD cap, installed it and added a little silicone to prevent water from going in, and the first time I had to remove it to check the rotor the cap cracked. I will never buy another "high performance" cap again.
That prove my point Fartman

as long as the cap is new, or in "as new" shape, one cap is as good as the next. Until I hear someone say "this cap has more material or this cap is pure brass terminals", I ain't recommending one over another.

Get the best cap you can find and blow the real dough on the better wires IMO.

Sixlitre

p.s./
You don't commute to work via a river like SGTex used to, do you ?:toothless
 

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On my 455 Olds I run a MSD cap, and rotor, I also have a pertronix igniter, and a MSD 6AL. With Standard High grade cap rotor, and Taylor wires I would get a miss, at higher RPMs(3,000 up). So I switched to MSD cap, rotor, and wires. And I no longer get a miss.

I also have MSD cap, and rotor on the 5.8, but OE motocrap wires. At about 80,000 miles it developed a bad miss :D.
 

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On my 455 Olds I run a MSD cap, and rotor, I also have a pertronix igniter, and a MSD 6AL. With Standard High grade cap rotor, and Taylor wires I would get a miss, at higher RPMs(3,000 up). So I switched to MSD cap, rotor, and wires. And I no longer get a miss.

I also have MSD cap, and rotor on the 5.8, but OE motocrap wires. At about 80,000 miles it developed a bad miss :D.
I think that's caused from old equipment. Doesn't have anything to do with std. vs. performance stuff. Of course there's not enough info here for me to say for sure, just a thought.
 

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I think that's caused from old equipment. Doesn't have anything to do with std. vs. performance stuff. Of course there's not enough info here for me to say for sure, just a thought.
I will fill in the blanks, I built the 455 olds. Took the OE distributor to a shop, had it rebuilt, and dynoed. They installed new weights and springs for my boats operating rpm range. From there I installed the pertronix, and a new set of Standard High grade cap and rotor, and a set of Taylor wires. Six monthes later I installed the MSD 6AL, first day out was fine. Then it started to miss, and back fire it progressively got worse. Checked it all out, and all apeared to be good. This seriously baffled me. Plugs were good, and the wires tested good. So I put a new set of MSD cap and rotor, with MSD wires (mainley cause the wires are red and so is the boat). Ever since I changed the cap and rotor over, the boat no longer misses, and this has been 2 years now. The only thing I can figure is a defect in the cap. Which I had seen before in VWs with cheap caps.


As for the Bronco, you are right, it had some cheap kragens cap and rotor that the previous owner had installed on it. And when I replaced it, you could definately tell they were shot, you could even see where the wires were arcing through to the valve cover.
 
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