I'd guess that 96's will have that plug since signal mirrors was an option.
DIY LED Signal Mirrors in a 96 XLT
If you are like me, you’ve given up stumbling upon the ultra rare 96 signal mirrors. I came across a kit from sharkracing.com found here:
http://www.sharkracing.com/acecart/bin/shop.cgi?action=view&itemID=ledmirrordiy&cate=070000000
I looked through Steve83’s supermotors album and read Bossind’s thread on the disassembly of the 92-96 flag mirrors.
I have read about people having problems getting the mirror and backing plate off the housing. I used a trim removal tool shown here:
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Per Steve83’s instructions I pushed the mirror all the way down and in towards the door. I inserted the trim tool in the top corner that pushed out the most and gently pulled on it and worked my way around the perimeter until it fell into my hand. This is what you will see (assuming you have power mirrors):
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Now the next step requires you to attempt to separate the actual mirror glass from the backing plate. I heated it with my heat gun and was unsuccessful. So I broke both of them off and went and bought two new mirror glasses from advance auto for $10 a piece. Well worth it. Here is what you get from sharkracing, which BTW, came from S. Korea so don’t be surprised if it takes up to 10 business days:
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I then cut off a piece of the double sided tape that came with the new glass and used that hold the LEDs in place. I then ran the wires to the hole that is already in the backing plate. The red tape is for the new glass.
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I then installed the glass onto the backing plates and started running the wires through the mirror and door jam. Here is where you will run the wire, you will have to remove the mirror from the door and then take off the plastic gasket in order to properly hide the wires through the door
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Now this was the biggest pain in my ass….getting the wires through the door jam. I straightened a wire coat hanger and taped the wire ends onto it and fished it through the door jam. While it is a pain in the ass, it is well worth the effort for the clean install. I’ll also note that I wrapped the tape around the hanger alone for a few wraps and then around the wires so that it wouldn’t just slip right off.
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I knew from looking through Steve83’s diagrams that I was looking for a W/LB and LG/W wire for the turn signals. I popped the passenger kick panel off and lo and behold, I see an empty connector that is for, I assume, a 96 w/ signal mirrors. I turn my hazards on, break the test light out and sure enough, those are the two I want. I must say that I was pretty happy to find that because I was apprehensive about splicing into the MFS harness at the column. I cut the plug off and the W/LB wire is for the Passenger side signal and the LG/W wire is for the driver side signal.
This plug:
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Yep, this one:
![]()
I’m not sure if there is another one of those on the driver side, but I just ran the driver side signal over here and used both of the wires since it was so damn convenient. There was a ground right under that harness that I used for both signals (in the first pic, it is what is grounding my test light).
Here is the final result, one during the day and one at night. I can probably get them brighter if I sanded the backside of the mirror but I’m happy for now. I may try sanding if I ever attempt to install autodimming side mirrors.
I’m pleased with the result, on the driver side LED, I put it to close to the bottom and some of the light leaks off between the glass and the backing plate..I’ll probably end up fixing that sooner rather than later.
![]()
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http://www.sharkracing.com/acecart/bin/shop.cgi?action=view&itemID=ledmirrordiy&cate=070000000
I looked through Steve83’s supermotors album and read Bossind’s thread on the disassembly of the 92-96 flag mirrors.
I have read about people having problems getting the mirror and backing plate off the housing. I used a trim removal tool shown here:
Per Steve83’s instructions I pushed the mirror all the way down and in towards the door. I inserted the trim tool in the top corner that pushed out the most and gently pulled on it and worked my way around the perimeter until it fell into my hand. This is what you will see (assuming you have power mirrors):
Now the next step requires you to attempt to separate the actual mirror glass from the backing plate. I heated it with my heat gun and was unsuccessful. So I broke both of them off and went and bought two new mirror glasses from advance auto for $10 a piece. Well worth it. Here is what you get from sharkracing, which BTW, came from S. Korea so don’t be surprised if it takes up to 10 business days:
I then cut off a piece of the double sided tape that came with the new glass and used that hold the LEDs in place. I then ran the wires to the hole that is already in the backing plate. The red tape is for the new glass.
I then installed the glass onto the backing plates and started running the wires through the mirror and door jam. Here is where you will run the wire, you will have to remove the mirror from the door and then take off the plastic gasket in order to properly hide the wires through the door
Now this was the biggest pain in my ass….getting the wires through the door jam. I straightened a wire coat hanger and taped the wire ends onto it and fished it through the door jam. While it is a pain in the ass, it is well worth the effort for the clean install. I’ll also note that I wrapped the tape around the hanger alone for a few wraps and then around the wires so that it wouldn’t just slip right off.
I knew from looking through Steve83’s diagrams that I was looking for a W/LB and LG/W wire for the turn signals. I popped the passenger kick panel off and lo and behold, I see an empty connector that is for, I assume, a 96 w/ signal mirrors. I turn my hazards on, break the test light out and sure enough, those are the two I want. I must say that I was pretty happy to find that because I was apprehensive about splicing into the MFS harness at the column. I cut the plug off and the W/LB wire is for the Passenger side signal and the LG/W wire is for the driver side signal.
This plug:
Yep, this one:
I’m not sure if there is another one of those on the driver side, but I just ran the driver side signal over here and used both of the wires since it was so damn convenient. There was a ground right under that harness that I used for both signals (in the first pic, it is what is grounding my test light).
Here is the final result, one during the day and one at night. I can probably get them brighter if I sanded the backside of the mirror but I’m happy for now. I may try sanding if I ever attempt to install autodimming side mirrors.
I’m pleased with the result, on the driver side LED, I put it to close to the bottom and some of the light leaks off between the glass and the backing plate..I’ll probably end up fixing that sooner rather than later.
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The factory side mirror glass isn't polarized or bronze; it's just half-silvered. That's ALL flag-style mirror glass; not just the signal mirrors. And the silvering is on the VISIBLE (rear) face, so sanding the mounting (front) face would only make the LEDs look foggy; it wouldn't change their visibility. To make the LEDs directional (which isn't the same as polarizing), you'd need to add black strips along the inboard edge of each column of LEDs so the driver couldn't see them, but anyone outside the truck could. The factory LEDs have a directional lens on them to achieve that effect. Drilling a hole for each LED & then mounting the plate offset inboard of the holes would accomplish the same thing. I've recently added several pics to that photo album, and one shows a factory plate without the mirror.
BTW
That website offers a reward for referring customers, so post your customer number if you ever plan on ordering from them again.
BTW
That website offers a reward for referring customers, so post your customer number if you ever plan on ordering from them again.
I've never seen a bronze RV mirror, either, and I have 2 buckets full of them (1 w/compass; the other w/temperature & compass). You can't add dimming to a mirror - the glass has to be built with a liquid crystal sheet & a polarizing sheet, and contacts to connect wires to the liquid crystal layer. It's not a DIY project, and you can't cut glass with those features down to fit in these heads. The only way to do it would be to bolt on a complete mirror assembly with those features.
BTW
I bought a set of Shark LEDs & made them directional:
. 
BTW
I bought a set of Shark LEDs & made them directional:
.
2
Cutting a liquid crystal display (LCD) causes the liquid crystal to leak out, and it stops working. And that's how all dimming mirrors work. If you have polarized sunglasses, hold them up to the mirror, and rotate them. If the view thru the glasses changes from dark to black, the mirror has a polarizing sheet. Same for any other LCD.
I've seen yellowish GM side mirrors, but all my RV mirrors have a distinctly green/blue caste when they're darkened, and almost no perceptible color when off; nothing I'd call "bronze".
. 
. 
I've seen yellowish GM side mirrors, but all my RV mirrors have a distinctly green/blue caste when they're darkened, and almost no perceptible color when off; nothing I'd call "bronze".
. .
3
You quoted the answer to your question. 
You need to read more carefully. :deal
You need to read more carefully. :deal
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