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DIY Saet Heater

11497 Views 11 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  beckyandrich
While researching on how to make my heated seats I have found many sources on ready to install heated seats but no information on the watts they produced. They seemed expensive and adding on a controller put it out of my price range. Prices for the heated seats for one ranged from $95 up to $180 for one seat with no controller with them. The controller ranged from $65 on up.



The following information was taken in part from here
http://webpages.charter.net/hondapotamus/heat.htm
http://home.mebtel.net/~rbutterfield/Heat.html

Other information that can help you decide on the wire length/watts
http://inadad.com/resistor.shtml
http://www.riedon.com/riedon_calculator.htm


Parts you will need
1 Seat covers or you can take apart your seats and install them in your seats
2 Hook-up wire ( Where you get you heat from) http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebComm...amSearch=true&st=parametricSelection&x=26&y=6 3 switches your choice toggle/rocker. I chose rocker because I have a big dog and 3 year old that romps around in my Bronco
4 insulated wire to attach the hook-up wire to. Since it will be getting hot it also acts a heat sink to absorb the heat coming from the hook up wire. I used a cord from a Halogen lamp that no longer worked. A cord also makes it easier to sew it the seat cover to keep it from coming ripped/pulled out
5 Inline fuse holder or into a auxiliary fuse panel.
6 Base cloth. I used a felt type material I got from Wal-Mart for 3.77 a yard. Only needed 1 yard
7 Spray adhesive
8 Heat shrink

Tools needed
1 Soldering gun with solder( I used a rosin core solder from Radio Shack) I chose to solder versus crimping because the hook up wire is only 30 gauge and the cord was a 16 gauge
2 Thread and needle. To sew the hook up wire to you base cloth. I was going to use a heat activated bonding tape but I found that it was easier to sew then pull the wire to get a tighter fit instead of fighting with the wire I also found if you screw up its easier to take apart
3 Wire stripper/crimper

Instructions
1 Plan on your watts needed. Mine came out to 70 something for the seat and less for the back rest. When planning your wiring route ensure it starts and ends in the same place . With the seat and back ending on the same side. I placed mine 1 inch apart.
2 Sew your hook up wire to your cloth according to your diagram that you made.
Sorry about the picture it kinda blurry

3 Solder and heat shrink the cord and hook up wire together and use heat shrink.
4 With your hook up wire sewn in place, spray the cloth with your adhesive
5 Attach one wire to your switch and install inline fuse( or to your auxiliary fuse panel) and the other to a good ground


Things to consider
1 I personally thought it was better to go a little hotter than just right. You can test it out using a jump box(thats what I used) or battery charger with jump start capabilities and feel it threw you seat cover before attaching.
2 Attach a resistor to your switch and separate switch for high and low. I haven't figured out what Ohm resistor I need yet. I decided it was easier to turn it off and on to adjust how much heat I needed.
3 I originally used 2 pieces of cloth and sandwiched them together to place on the inside of my seat cover and when I hooked it up to my jump box but it didn't seem hot enough so I just adhered directly directly to seat cover. I could have gotten it hot enough but the wire would have been too short for my needs
4 When you order your hook up wire you can also order toggle switches from Newark at a great price
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That is really cool!
Instead of a switch and resister combo for a hi/lo function did you consider using a rheostat instead? I would guess maybe a 0-10 or 0-20 ohm one should do the trick. You mentioned that you thought it was better to go a little hot than just right, having a rheostat in there should make it infinitely adjustable so it can be dialed in to right where you need it. You could even mount up two rheostats on the dash and have both front seats independantly adjustable, that would rock. Also, you might be able to find a rheostat with an on/off switch built into it, that would be the neatest solution.
I was thinking of a 3 Ohm resistor for hi and low, I'm just not sure if the Ohm is right. Trying to keep it inexpensive
I think I figured out a good place to start in your last Thread about it.....

Why did you use the light cord and where do you sew that in, I thought you just sewed the teflon wire in there????
I sewn in the teflon wire to the backing before I attached it to the seat cover, then I soldered the wire to a light cord. The light cord was then sewn to the backing to keep it from being pulled out. I used the light cord because it was more insulated then a regular automotive wire.
Ahh, which wires did you solder it to... all 3? or just one??
You solder one end of the teflon wire to one end of the cord and then do the same for the other side. One end will be the hot wire and the other will be to a ground. By having + on one end then a ground on the other end of the wire is how it heats the wire. The cord will have 2 wires, one + and one -
OH so its not a 3 wire electrical cord, only a 2. Ok I thought it would have the white black and green type. I am definatly doing this!!
81Bronk36 said:
OH so its not a 3 wire electrical cord, only a 2. Ok I thought it would have the white black and green type. I am definatly doing this!!
This is a direct link to the hook up wire
http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/searchPage2.jsp;jsessionid=AXDR31XEPZFY0CXFEOFCFFYK2URYWIV1?Ntk=gensearch&select0=115041&paramSelectCount=3&showImages=true&st=parametricSelection&N=4&Ntt=categorynumber6114&comSearch=true&paramSearch=true&st=parametricSelection&x=26&y=6
Heres one for a 80 cent rocker switchhttp://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp;jsessionid=2YLL0QPWU03K0CXFEOFCFFYK2URYWIV1?SKU=26H5741&N=0
So how does the 30 gauge wire get hot, just cuz its thin???? Or is it because its grounded as well, so escentially your running juice directly to ground, but it goes though that 30 gauge wire (the "load of sorts")and gets hot??
81Bronk36 said:
So how does the 30 gauge wire get hot, just cuz its thin???? Or is it because its grounded as well, so escentially your running juice directly to ground, but it goes though that 30 gauge wire (the "load of sorts")and gets hot??
Yep and the teflon coating protects from the heat
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