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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My experience with this transmission was a pretty decent one, and if you wana save around 500 -600$ in installing cost (cost may vary where you live) i would do it but under CERTAIN! circumstances i would say:

*must have a 2nd car (this is not a 1 day job)
*be ready to pay over 1 k to get it rebuilt
*patience, mine took 2 weeks because it had severe damage and parts availability

Also you will NEED (this i not opinion, you must have this to make your life easier)
  • 1 friend
  • heavy duty ratchet straps (i used 1,000 duty strength ones)
  • a jack with a Transmission adapter (THIS is the most important one)
  • jack stands
  • oil sand/kitty litter (i didnt have it and i wish i had)
  • super long extension and/or extensions

Theres alot of tutorials of how to take down the transmission and back up, but ill give a 5 min explanation:
1. make sure the truck is cold
2. drain trans and transfer case fluid
3. jack up the rear
4. take driveshafts out
5. take transfer case down
6. take transmission cooler lines out
7. put jack with transmission adapter under the transmission
8. loosen transmission support (or remove)
9. remove starter
10. removes converter bolts (use pb blaster, heat and a good set of sockets)
11. remove wiring connections and manual shift lever connection
12. remove all bell housing bolts
13. shimmy transmission out
14............profit?

ill do another one when i install it back
have a good day night guys and gals!
 

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Yo Fox,
THANKS!
 

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I have a 32" extension thats half inch at the impact and 3/8 at the end and I use an impact swivel out there for Bellhouse bolts. Piece a cake. Just time. I can yank one out on my back without a lift in a couple hours. If I have a new or used one to swap in..its 8 hours tops. With beers. All of this stuff is make your mind up to do it. And do it.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Nice, be sure to fill us in on your install experiences!

Couple tips and pointers for others from someone who has dropped a number of transmissions by himself, in the junkyard and at home.

If you can, remove the trans tunnel cover from the inside. It makes the bellhousing bolts much easier.

It also allows you to use an engine hoist through the passenger door to raise and lower the transmission. Obviously not everyone has a hoist.

It is possible to remove a ZF5 without touching the crossmember. Its not fun, but possible!

Use an old bare tire or seat cushion to drop the transfer case and then trans to the ground. Just unbolt, shimmy them off and let em fall on the tire.

Let the gearing in the trans lock up when removing drive shafts, so you only need one wrench.
 
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I love having ramps and an actual transmission jack. Just undo the starter and the inspection cover, drop the cross member, remove the 6 TQconverter nuts, drop drive shafts, then remove the bell housing bolts, slide transmission/transfer case out from the engine block and rest it on the ground. 1.5 hours to pull and replace... those pesky TQC nuts come off really easy with either an impact or with a 3/8 drive 9/16” socket/ratchet and a 2.5’ cheater bar. I just got done dropping my transmission today to swap in a ZF5. And I did it out side in the snow at 25 degrees.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Part: 2
I just got the transmission in........oh god was it a pain in the butt to do it alone,took me 2 hours to get it lined up right, heres how i did it :
1. get the transmission with the torque converter on filled with transmission fluid on to the jack(with the adapter)
2. line it up as best you can and line up the torque converter bolts through the flex plate(flywheel)
3. put one of the heavy duty straps on the back of the transmission to keep it level
4. move/pull until the torque converter bolts AND.... the alignment pins for the transmission are as close as posible
5. put 2 bolts on the bottom holes of bell housing and tighten them up (not all the way, enough to make the transmission lined up)
6. ones the alinement pins are in and its mating with the engine, go ahead and install all the bell housing screws
7. install the rear cross member to hold the rear of the transmission
8. bolt everything else in
9. and reverse everything you did with the driveshafts and transfer case
11. fill the transmission and transfer case with fluids
10. grab a cold one and admire your work

tomorrow im going to install the rest of the things and take it out for a drive!!
have a good one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ITS DONE!!!!!
my god that was a pain but i finished!!!!! :)
 
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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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One tip for installing the trans. Find a couple head bolts from a 300, or buy some the right size to fit into the bellhousing bolt holes. Cut the heads off and grind a couple wrench flats on opposing sides. The bolt should be about 4" long. With the heads cut off and radiused a bit, they work great as alignment dowels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One tip for installing the trans. Find a couple head bolts from a 300, or buy some the right size to fit into the bellhousing bolt holes. Cut the heads off and grind a couple wrench flats on opposing sides. The bolt should be about 4" long. With the heads cut off and radiused a bit, they work great as alignment dowels.
WHY DIDNT YOU TELL ME THIS EARLIER !!!!!!!!!!!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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WHY DIDNT YOU TELL ME THIS EARLIER !!!!!!!!!!!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Im sorry! Lol Ive shared it before, but cant ever remember to whom!
 

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One tip for installing the trans. Find a couple head bolts from a 300, or buy some the right size to fit into the bellhousing bolt holes. Cut the heads off and grind a couple wrench flats on opposing sides. The bolt should be about 4" long. With the heads cut off and radiused a bit, they work great as alignment dowels.
I have a drawer full of these bolts... I use them for third members, transmissions, transfer cases, PTOs, even heads... pretty much for anything that requires precise alignments. I sort them from small to large and have a divider to separate SAE from Metric
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Lol, I use the old head bolts from my 300 on my engine stand too!
 
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It was only 6 posts down … in the same forum. I just completed this a few weeks ago on my 1996. My poor 1993 is in the same boat as yours with a bad E4OD so I'm watching this thread like a hawk.



The only real issue that I came across was trying to mount the transmission by myself. I thought that the transmission jack was going to make lining up the input shaft a piece of cake. No sir. I spent the better part of 3 hours turning... twisting.. raising… lowering the transmission and I could not get it to seat properly. I used a bottle jack on both sides of the transmission jack to try and get the correct angle. I gave up and had to use my "phone a friend" lifeline. He told me to head to home depot and pick up the following piece of all thread.





He said that if a cut a few pieces at about 6 to 8 inches and threaded them into the block it would let the transmission slide right into place.





So I lifted the tranny. Got it started on the all thread... and it went right in. I wrestled with that 200lb monster all day and in 5 minutes it was completed. I thought I would pay that forward and maybe help someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Im sorry! Lol Ive shared it before, but cant ever remember to whom!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA this is why some people dont like old timer mechanics, they keep them secrets to them selfs hahahaha XD
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It was only 6 posts down … in the same forum. I just completed this a few weeks ago on my 1996. My poor 1993 is in the same boat as yours with a bad E4OD so I'm watching this thread like a hawk.



The only real issue that I came across was trying to mount the transmission by myself. I thought that the transmission jack was going to make lining up the input shaft a piece of cake. No sir. I spent the better part of 3 hours turning... twisting.. raising… lowering the transmission and I could not get it to seat properly. I used a bottle jack on both sides of the transmission jack to try and get the correct angle. I gave up and had to use my "phone a friend" lifeline. He told me to head to home depot and pick up the following piece of all thread.





He said that if a cut a few pieces at about 6 to 8 inches and threaded them into the block it would let the transmission slide right into place.





So I lifted the tranny. Got it started on the all thread... and it went right in. I wrestled with that 200lb monster all day and in 5 minutes it was completed. I thought I would pay that forward and maybe help someone else.
YUP!!!! took me around the same time to wrestle the monster in place x.x wish i new about this
 

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-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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Alignment pins is one of the first tricks aught to me by those old timers... hence the collection of alignment dowels
Great trick for intake manifolds too. Back when we were still using cork on the China wall it solved the problem of bumping that gasket off.
 
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