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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to add some traction to my front open D44 but am now faced with a dilema. I am relatively competent (have done suspension work, water pumps, brakes, etc.) but never popped open a diff. Is this something best left to the pros?

Ps. I am talking full carrier replacement not drop in.
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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its better left to someone that knows how to do it if your not confedent you can do it right. you will need to setup the gears again when you put in the full carrier. a mistake can be very expensive it you set something up wrong in there.
 

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I agree, unless you have done other diffs in the past the D44 is not one to learn on. I would take it in and have it done.
When I took mine into Ford they charged me about$75 to R&R the old carrier and put in my new one. A word of caution tho, if it is used, buy your own new bearings for it from a parts store, shops will charge alot extra if you use "their" parts.
Shane
 

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tired of your sh!t
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you've got a removable third member...do it. you can take as much time as you need and still be able to drive your truck :thumbup
 

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I am Super!
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If you have or can borrow the tools go for it if not, have soneone else do it. The tools cost more than the labor.

I bought the tools because I hate to pay people to do things that I can, plus after I do one or two more I'll be ahead $ !
 

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It depends on you. Do you want to learn? I did. I just regeared and locked my D44 and 8.8. It's not a quicky thing. But I think well worth the experience.
 

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I am Super!
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I started on a 9" rear. I think it is the easiest to learn on. You don;t have to press a bunch of shims on and off alot of times. I remember that someone here honed out an extra bearing and used it to test fit untill he got it perfect. then he pressed on a new on.
That sounds like the smartest way I've heard to do it yet :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help guys. If I were to attempt this, what tools would I need and what is the cost (of the tools)? I am all for learning how to do this however there is a point where paying someone else (who has experience/tools) makes more sense $$$.
 

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SuperDave said:
I remember that someone here honed out an extra bearing and used it to test fit untill he got it perfect. then he pressed on a new on.
That sounds like the smartest way I've heard to do it yet :thumbup
That is a fairly good way to do it, but not totally correct. After being in Tapered Rolloer Bearing business( Timken R&D, setup and repair) for over 10 years I do feel qualified to shoot you in the foot. You can get very close maybe as close as 3 or 4 thousands sometime with this method, but the only way to get perfect this way is to buy 2 perfectly matched cups and cones(extremely complicated measuring process, requires a rather extensive inventory of parts to match and swap), then hone one out, which renders it totally useless.
 

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When I took mine into Ford they charged me about$75 to R&R the old carrier and put in my new one.
Wow! That's a great price! Shops around here charge up to $300 labor per diff. Lucky for me I was able to have a mechanic do mine on the side for the same price you quoted. $75. He couldn't do the TTB D44 though because it required a 4 bolt spreader. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I haven't given up on this idea yet.. I got a quote from a local 4x shop and $290.00 is what the job will cost. My next idea is finding a used D44 with a locker or L/S and doing a swap (same 3.55 gearing). Is this possible/available or even a good idea? I read on another thread that 92-96 parts are harder to find (more of them still on the road) but still seems better than paying the $$. All I have is time. :shrug
 

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:argue
rmyers2051 said:
That is a fairly good way to do it, but not totally correct. After being in Tapered Rolloer Bearing business( Timken R&D, setup and repair) for over 10 years I do feel qualified to shoot you in the foot. You can get very close maybe as close as 3 or 4 thousands sometime with this method, but the only way to get perfect this way is to buy 2 perfectly matched cups and cones(extremely complicated measuring process, requires a rather extensive inventory of parts to match and swap), then hone one out, which renders it totally useless.
I am sure you know more than I in the bearing department,,,however when I did my diffs I honed out a bearing to use for setup. As long as you recheck tollerances after the new bearing is installed and backlash and pinion depth are correct what's the difference. You might have to pull the bearing and make an adjustment, but at least you wouldn't have to pull and press the bearing multiple times risking damaged to the bearing.
 

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BigNorm said:
Wow! That's a great price! Shops around here charge up to $300 labor per diff. Lucky for me I was able to have a mechanic do mine on the side for the same price you quoted. $75. He couldn't do the TTB D44 though because it required a 4 bolt spreader. :(
I was able to do my D44 without a spreader. I know several others who have also. A spreader is prefered but I don't believe it is necessary.
 

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How'd the unit come out without a spreader? I'll pass the info on to the guy that does my gears.
 

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tired of your sh!t
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I've taken 3 out without spreaders. Two pry bars at opposite ends and it slides right out.
 

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NOBS! said:
I've taken 3 out without spreaders. Two pry bars at opposite ends and it slides right out.
:thumbup
Yup...Same here. On the 8.8 diff I used a chain run through the carrier and a bar through the chain and pulled it out pretty easy. 2 pry bars on the D44.
 

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Well Done Man!
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srhanson said:
I would take it in and have it done.
When I took mine into Ford they charged me about$75 to R&R the old carrier and put in my new one.
Shane
Wow thats even cheaper what i charge!!!

As for the bearings, I use setup bearnings to. Yup tollerances can change up to .010, maybe if timken could get some standards (J/K, wanna see close to .1 by the junk made in India.
 
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