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FSM Lifetime
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so a few months ago my Heater blower motor went bad, so I took it to a mechanic and had it replaced. HOWEVER, it doesn't seem quite as powerful as it used to be, although it does seem to blow good.


The problem, is that while it gets warm in the truck, it doesn't get hot. I had the temp blasted all the way to the right, and at best I could feel "comfortable, kinda warm" Where as in my 98 contour if i push the heater all the way to the right you will melt and have trouble breathing :goodfinge


So what's the deal, are there any common trouble points I could look at for potential problems? Or are there any upgrades possible to make my heater better?
 

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2nd mouse gets the cheese
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614 Posts
i had an issue with the heater on my 97 power joke. a pen had fallen down and was stoping the heater door from fully closing to get heat. if you remove the heater core cover door look at the heater door make sure its going all the way closed.
 

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Also, as old as these trucks are, there is a good chance the heater core could be partially clogged.
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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That's probably likely; luckily, either you can blow out the core or replace it easily. But yes, all Fords, when working, will dry roast you.
 

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Heat in all of my Fords has always roasted me. Especially my PSD. The added floor/firewall heat from a hot diesel exhaust system helps too. :thumbup
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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Probowler, what temp is the air coming out of the vents? get a gauge that fits in the vents and post your findings. is the engine getting up to operating temp?
 

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i have just noticed that i have never even turned on the heat in my truck. good ole florida!
 

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mine works fine, thermostat open maybe, would also check the blend door
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright guys, good suggestions so far. I'll be looking into this more very soon... Alaskan Winters are too cold!
 

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I thought my heater was okay, until i had to replace my heater core. Now it will melt your face Indiana Jones style!
 

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Super Moderator
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yo,
Could be a number of issues as the guys mentioned above;

From Radiator, see my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=188
t stat, see my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=189
to hoses, see my site http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=187

heater core issues;
such as:debris in Blower Motors/Ducts see my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=495 for such as:
Location in 80-96 Blower Motors/Ducts
This shows where leaves build up in '80-96 truck ductwork. If they build up around the resistors (green), the entire truck can catch fire if the motor (yellow) is NOT at full speed all the time.

See more diagrams there and info

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/71652
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See my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=86 for HOT LINKS to such Info as:

Heater Core Failure, Repeated TSB 01-15-06 for 85-96
Lack of Heat, Temperature Blend Door Cam Spring Does Not Blend Door to Seat Properly TSB 92-4-13 for Vehicles Built Prior to 11/11/91, 92 Bronco & F Series & F-47

Low or No Heat/Air Conditioning, High Effort to Turn Temperature Control Knob, Poor Temperature Modulation TSB 96-13-7 for 92-95 Bronco, F Series, F-47

Low/No Heat When Temperature Knob Is Set At Full Heat TSB 94-20-16 for 92-94 Bronco & F-150-350 Series
Odors, Eliminate Air Conditioning Musty & Mildew Type TSB 98-2-7 for 92-96 Bronco; 92-97 Aerostar, Econoline, Explorer, F SUPER DUTY, F-150, F-250 HD, F-250 LD, F-350, Ranger & many others

Poor Heater/Defroster Performance in Engine Coolant Concerns TSB 93-24-08 for 84-94 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Econoline & many others; Blend door operation, Check blend door for binding and proper operation; Mode door operation. Check mode door for binding and proper operation. Blower fan operation, Check blower fan for proper operation and control. Heater core plugged, Flush cooling system. Coolant level, Check level in radiator and coolant recovery reservoir. Leakage, Check for leaks using pressure test. Thermostat operation, Check Thermostat. Refer to "Thermostat Diagnosis" procedure.

"...The heater hose connected to the intake manifold or t-stat outlet flows AWAY from the engine. The heater hose connected to the water pump flows TO the pump... In most engines, coolant ALWAYS flows thru the heater core circuit. The outlet for the heater core is beside the t'stat, so the t'stat can never restrict flow to the heater core. This serves 2 purposes: it allows an unrestricted failsafe coolant flow (although the heater core isn't nearly large enough to cool the engine if the radiator becomes restricted), and it allows the cabin to receive heat as soon as it becomes available, irrelevant of the radiator temperature, ambient temp, t'stat, fan, or clutch/relay. Even if the coolant level becomes critically low, the heater circuit will still generally have coolant in it since it takes less coolant to sustain flow within its smaller capacity. In some vehicles, a problem has been recognized in which high engine RPM during warmup can result in excessive pressure within the heater core, resulting in rupture. The fix is to retrofit a slight restriction (an orifice plate) into the circuit upstream of the heater core to limit the flow, and thereby, the pressure. Returning coolant is typically routed directly into the water pump. If the heater core fails, it is safe to loop a hose from the outlet directly back to the return indefinitely. It may also be beneficial to occasionally reverse the hoses at the heater core to keep it flushed out. The direction of flow in the heater core is irrelevant..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at fourdoorbronco.com
 

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Super Moderator
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yo,
My heater still gets er done; but as Ryan mentioned, epecially Miss Daisey rear seaters, it does get colder back there.
 

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Wow miesk5, lots of good info. Answered a couple of my questions before i even got around to asking them. Thanks.
 

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Wow miesk5, lots of good info. Answered a couple of my questions before i even got around to asking them. Thanks.
yo "Q",
yw

and for your next Qs;
to the left side of the distributor...

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test...

NO! I don't do that. anymore
 

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Premium Member
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126 Posts
The heater in my '94 gets pretty toasty even with the rust holes letting cold air in. Maybe you need a new thermostat. Also when when your Bronco is at operating temperature feel both heater hoses and make sure they both pretty darn warm. If one is much cooler than than the other one you have a problem with your heater core. Newer Ford heaters will roast ya! Even my '86 F150 when run you out of the cab. :thumbup
 

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Local # 40 Boilermakers
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15,785 Posts
Mine will roast you out of the truck, a lot of times I crack the windows when its cold out with the heat wide open. I dont know why but I think it fels good doing that.
 

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Premium Member
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23,549 Posts
You said you had the fan replaced now it is not hot.

If it was hot before I am thinking they did something in there. got something stuck in a blend door, fan is poor quality and not blowing enough to heat the cabin.

If it was cool before the fan motor replacement. Then check the heater core and Tstat to see if they are good. It can also still be something blocking the blend door.
 

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Premium Member
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5,773 Posts
Mine was doing the same thing, heater core was plugged. They are cheap and easy to change.
 
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