Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody, I took my Son's Bronco over to have the rear main and oil pan gasket replaced. The mechanic called and said that they checked the transmission fluid and it looked brown and smelled burnt and suggested we rebuild the transmission now while it was pulled to save the labor. Estimated cost of $2200-$2500 depending on what parts would be needed when opened up. When we bought the Bronco back in April, we smelled and looked at the fluid and did not notice any heavy smell or overly brown color. I will say that we may have felt a slip one time at a heavy acceleration going about 20 mph. I wasn't sure if it was a slip or just the engine kicking in when the pedaled was depressed. Bronco has 151K. Wondering if we might be able to get by for a year or so, while my Son saves some money? For the most part, he should only be driving around town. Thanks for your help.
 

·
Registered
'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just trying to imagine how we missed the look and smell when we checked it on purchase? Mechanics words, was “it’s on its way out”. Also wondering why we have not felt more issues? It’s true though we have not driven it a lot. I’d love to put a newly built tranny in it now and have it off our mind, but a lot to spend right now. In another note, mechanic did say back of e engine looks brand new otherwise and was very well taken care of over all so looking forward to many years of care and enjoyment on our end.
 

·
Registered
'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The transmission places around here quoted me anywhere from 1100-1600 to rebuild mine...in fact you can buy a replacement cheaper than 2000 from reputable places online.
Glad you brought that up in regards to buying a replacement. That was actually gonna be another one of my questions that I forgot to ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
First off - if they are saying $2K to rebuild / replace the transmission when they ALREADY HAVE IT OUT to do the rear main seal? I would never use that mechanic again. What are they charging you for rear main seal and oil pan gasket replacement?
 

·
Registered
'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First off - if they are saying $2K to rebuild / replace the transmission when they ALREADY HAVE IT OUT to do the rear main seal? I would never use that mechanic again. What are they charging you for rear main seal and oil pan gasket replacement?
Each of the two was five hours labor for a total of 10 but we agreed since they were part of the way there for the oil pan we would meet at seven hours labor so about $1000


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
Jeez. $1000 for 7 hours labor or is the $1K including parts and supplies / fluids? My buddy (retired mechanic) does side jobs. And he's considered expensive on labor around here because he doesn't half-ass stuff and he tells people up front, if he takes it apart and it needs this part or that part, he's not putting it back together without replacing needed parts. Thus he's picky on jobs / customers. I will say NO ONE has ever complained about his work and he turns away more work that he does.

All that being said - he charged $750 to pull an engine out of a 90s F150, replace with a customer provided long block and that included dressing the new engine, fixing some issues here and there. It took him part of a weekend to do it. I was there helping a bit (mainly drinking and giving him grief). He wasn't in a super hurry either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,262 Posts
I've seen good and bad reviews on Monster transmissions. Honestly - if you aren't doing the labor yourself, I'd look for a local transmission shop FAMILIAR with the E4OD and who gets good reviews. That way you aren't stuck on labor costs / time if there are issues and you have to ship it back to the builder.

Keep in mind. Most E4OD problems aren't actually transmission problems. The E4OD is FULL Electronic. It depends on several sensors and the ECM to shift correctly. If any of those are messed up, not to mention the wiring harness and connectors, the transmission will not behave / shift correctly. I know that from personal experience. Check my build thread.
 

·
Registered
'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've seen good and bad reviews on Monster transmissions. Honestly - if you aren't doing the labor yourself, I'd look for a local transmission shop FAMILIAR with the E4OD and who gets good reviews. That way you aren't stuck on labor costs / time if there are issues and you have to ship it back to the builder.

Keep in mind. Most E4OD problems aren't actually transmission problems. The E4OD is FULL Electronic. It depends on several sensors and the ECM to shift correctly. If any of those are messed up, not to mention the wiring harness and connectors, the transmission will not behave / shift correctly. I know that from personal experience. Check my build thread.
The mechanic we are using is a long family mechanic that has always done good work for us. The transmission shop next door to them is also well trusted and they have been working together for many years. They actually rebuilt the transmission in a 2003 Dakota I had in the past. Costs are a bit high down here in South Florida but the work is definitely well reviewed and they are Ford Specialists which is part of the reason why I brought the Bronco there. The rebuild comes with a 3 year warranty. Yes, I wish the price was a little lower, but $3000 seems to be about the going rate down here for a rebuild.
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
994 Posts
I had a monster 700r4 in my drag car about 10 years ago, thats when they did the "video proof" they shot a video of the tech installing the guts into your transmission, showed them opening the sealed packages, showed the casting number on the case and etc. That way you knew you was getting what you paid for. It suited my purposes and stood up behind a 450hp small block chevy when i would launch at 4500 RPM. So, i was satisfied with them.
In my opinion, if he is only going to charge you 1000 to rebuild your original transmission then i would go that route, because you got to check and make sure Monster isnt going to charge you a 250 dollar core charge for your old tranny that YOU will have to pay to ship to them, so check into that if you go that route. And that sounds about right, because those prices i quoted you earlier was ME bringing the tranny to them, no install.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
29,116 Posts
Yo Joel,
Visit the mechanic and take a whiff of the fluid, and;
"Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure.
Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.
If fluid contamination or transmission failure is confirmed by further evidence of coolant or excessive particles in the transmission pan, the transmission must be disassembled and completely cleaned and serviced. This includes cleaning and flushing the torque converter and transmission cooling system. Repair or replace radiator." by Ford
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
994 Posts
Yo Joel,
Visit the mechanic and take a whiff of the fluid, and;
"Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure.
Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.
If fluid contamination or transmission failure is confirmed by further evidence of coolant or excessive particles in the transmission pan, the transmission must be disassembled and completely cleaned and serviced. This includes cleaning and flushing the torque converter and transmission cooling system. Repair or replace radiator." by Ford
IN addition to this, if it goes as far as draining the fluid, if it looks like it has glitter in it, that would be your clutch discs disentigrating, and its just a matter of time after that. I worked at a "jiffy lube" back in college 20 years ago and we would always disclaimer our transmission flush service if the fluid was funky or the customer didnt recall the last time it was serviced, because a lot of the time the only thing holding a transmission together is the "varnish" that the old fluid has created on the internals and once that clean fluid hits it, its like throwing thinner on wet paint, and the whole thing comes loose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,834 Posts
Jeez. $1000 for 7 hours labor or is the $1K including parts and supplies / fluids? My buddy (retired mechanic) does side jobs. And he's considered expensive on labor around here because he doesn't half-ass stuff and he tells people up front, if he takes it apart and it needs this part or that part, he's not putting it back together without replacing needed parts. Thus he's picky on jobs / customers. I will say NO ONE has ever complained about his work and he turns away more work that he does.

All that being said - he charged $750 to pull an engine out of a 90s F150, replace with a customer provided long block and that included dressing the new engine, fixing some issues here and there. It took him part of a weekend to do it. I was there helping a bit (mainly drinking and giving him grief). He wasn't in a super hurry either.
I was quoted 1500 at the lowest to just pull my transmission and transfer case... it all depends on your location, but the national average right now for shop labor rates is 160/hour.

To the op, 2500 sounds reasonable for a private transmission shop to build your transmission. I used to do a lot of business with my local transmission shop (ex automotive repair shop owner here) and our cost on a AOD build was always over 2000. Now I’m saying build, not rebuild, meaning the transmissions didn’t go back to stock. We specialized in building engines. So we needed transmissions built to match our HP/TQ monsters. If it’s just a rebuild it shouldn’t be more than $1200 with parts and labor. Any more than that and I would be looking into a JEG’s transmission or finding out what the shop is actually doing to the transmission.
 

·
Registered
1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
Joined
·
994 Posts
To the op, 2500 sounds reasonable for a private transmission shop to build your transmission. I used to do a lot of business with my local transmission shop (ex automotive repair shop owner here) and our cost on a AOD build was always over 2000. Now I’m saying build, not rebuild, meaning the transmissions didn’t go back to stock. We specialized in building engines. So we needed transmissions built to match our HP/TQ monsters. If it’s just a rebuild it shouldn’t be more than $1200 with parts and labor. Any more than that and I would be looking into a JEG’s transmission or finding out what the shop is actually doing to the transmission.
[/QUOTE]

Yeah, what he said, its relatively cheap to put an overhaul kit in a transmission, i think you can get a "deluxe" kit for around 200 bucks that will replace all the wear items inside the case, but then you have a "build" where they do more than just replace common wear items. I would make sure to ask what is included in the rebuild.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
Might try changing fluid and filter but if it smells burnt and is brown that is not good
It's always possible that every vehicle that this particular shop takes in needs a rebuilt transmission. Take a look at the tranny fluid yourself and confirm that it is indeed burnt. As far as leaky rear mains go, good luck with that. I had an '83 XLT with a 302 and, once the rear main seal started to leak it was forever. Replaced it myself once and had a professional do it two more times with no luck. Small block Fords are notorious for leaky rear mains.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,238 Posts
I can get 4r70w rebuilds as a unknown walk in customer for $600 + new Torque converter on pulled out units. I believe e4od/4r100 is about $1k.

I have seen you pull and installed offers as low as $400 on craigslist for 4l60e and 4r70w rebuilds. I'm sure a basic rebuild. Also the shop is upselling you that rebuild; the cost is too high for already pulled transmission. I do suggest using a local rebuilder. I just dont suggest paying that much.
 

·
Registered
'96 XLT, 5.0, E4OD, Electric 4X4, Automatic Hubs
Joined
·
293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Thanks everybody for all the help.

I smelled and did not get a strong burnt odor. Maybe my smell is not tuned to what I should smell. We are going to put it back together and hope it continues to act good like it has.

What do you think of the color?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,976 Posts
Just trying to imagine how we missed the look and smell when we checked it on purchase? Mechanics words, was “it’s on its way out”. Also wondering why we have not felt more issues? It’s true though we have not driven it a lot. I’d love to put a newly built tranny in it now and have it off our mind, but a lot to spend right now. In another note, mechanic did say back of e engine looks brand new otherwise and was very well taken care of over all so looking forward to many years of care and enjoyment on our end.
slipping is pretty obvious, youll stomp on the gas and the revs will climb but it won't go anywhere. Shift flare is when it revs up during a shift until the clutches can grab.
Add an External trans filter and aux cooler if it doesn't have one. Drive it for a while. If it doesn't start slipping change some of the fluid out by sucking what you can through the dipstick. Drive it some more, if no issues Do this another time or two then change out the trans fluid and aux filter.

I'm In North Florida but I'll be In wildwood in early November if you want someone with some more experience to take a look. Also we're gonna be rallycrossing hoopties and riding mini bikes on a motorcross track.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top