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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced my rotor/hub assemblies a while back, and found a couple of complete assemblies, everything except bearings, for $35 each. I thought that was pretty amazing, so I bought them. Seemed fine, but I had a little trouble getting the original auto hub locks to go in. The splines inside the hub seemed to be machined a little tight, and I had to tap the hub lock bodies in with a hammer. (Probably should have been a clue.)

Fast forward to now, when I'm doing a front-end refresh (ball joints, bearings (spindle and wheel), brake pads, the now turned original rotors/hubs, front axle u-joints, front driveshaft u-joints, possibly pulling the chunk to replace the seals, go clipless, and add a drain plug. Well, the first step of that, after lifting the truck and pulling the wheels, is to pull the auto hubs.

I had to use these:



to do this:





To get the hub lock body out of the hub assembly. Good thing the OEMs are going back on, and my Warn Supremes. (That's a sawzall handle in the lower right of the tools shot. Yes, it sucked.)

Now you can laugh at me, while I go "disassemble" the other side. Good thing I set aside the whole weekend, "just in case".
 

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My front hub is like that too...but not as bad. I think it may be a little out of round? I dont remember dropping it and it wasnt ever this hard. I may have hit it with a hammer one day to get the rotor off and put a slight dent in it. I'm gonna shave the outer hub body down a bit, cuz its not the splines but the outer part of the hub is tight.
 

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wow, and i thought it was a PITA to install a new rotor on the old hub. damn
 

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Do you remember what brand those were? I just ordered some from Checker. They were $100 a piece though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think the $100/per ones were the "recommended" ones at NAPA, where I got these. These were discontinued.

Changing ball joints on a 13+ year old Michigan truck is no fun at all. I can't even get the nuts to break loose.
 

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The ones I ordered were Raybestos

I feel your pain. I just did my balljoints on my 78 D44. There were a pain in the ass to get out.
 

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From the pictures, it looks like you may have tried this, but did you thread a few of the allen head bolts back into the slug w/o the cover and try to use your steering wheel puller on it? I have had some really stuck ones pull right out w/ just a slide hammer on two opposing allen bolts.

Later,
Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did try that. It wasn't budging. Broke the bolts, in fact.

I'm down to the BJ nuts being the stopping point now. It's nice having a lot of spare/new parts, that I bought "just because". Those spare ABS sensors will certainly come in handy, since the 3 pound hammer somehow seems to have damaged the ones that were in there. Not that that matters, because I can't put them back on until I get some more of those shields. The bolts for those were NOT 12 point 6mm on mine. I'm not sure what they were. Rusted to oblivion would be one answer.

I'm really loving this. Not at all.

Can I just torch the nuts off the ball joints? How do you get a wrench on the lower one anyway?
 

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most of the rotors the parts store sells are made in china. Look at the box.
When I needed rotors for my 04 taurus I wanted something decent. I requested Raybestos rotors thinking they were made in the good ole US of A.
The guy told me even Raybestos moved their manufacturing overseas. I passed on those and just had him order me a set of Brembos. They were made in Mexico, same continent at least I figured.
 

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Can I just torch the nuts off the ball joints? How do you get a wrench on the lower one anyway?
You can use a short socket (I think it's 1 1/8-inch but don't quote me), an impact swivel, and a 6-inch extension, with an impact gun. That's how I did mine.

Speaking of hubs, I had to replace my driver's side hub this past fall. I ordered a GS/Aimco/Brake Parts Inc. out of McHenry, IL, through either RockAuto.com, Murrays, or AutoZone (sorry, I can't remember which :wacko ), part number 4440RGS/326138/UPC#829352499047. Made in U.S.A. stamped all over the box, and the part itself. Excellent fit, finish, quality, and the only b!tch I had was that you have to be careful when pressing on the ABS exciter ring. They made this part so it will fit many different setups, I believe, and when I'd first installed it, the ring was pressed on too far. The ABS was activated because the sensor indicated wheel lock at speeds below 10mph because of the increased distance between the ring and sensor, thus a lower voltage amplitude.
 

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Lick my balls
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I did try that. It wasn't budging. Broke the bolts, in fact.

I'm down to the BJ nuts being the stopping point now. It's nice having a lot of spare/new parts, that I bought "just because". Those spare ABS sensors will certainly come in handy, since the 3 pound hammer somehow seems to have damaged the ones that were in there. Not that that matters, because I can't put them back on until I get some more of those shields. The bolts for those were NOT 12 point 6mm on mine. I'm not sure what they were. Rusted to oblivion would be one answer.

I'm really loving this. Not at all.

Can I just torch the nuts off the ball joints? How do you get a wrench on the lower one anyway?
That sucks! I wont bitch about replacing a timing belt on a 93 honda accord now, you definatly had a worse day than I.

IIRC, you need to remove the axle and you will have all the room you need to remove the nut. Don't torch it unless you have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can use a short socket (I think it's 1 1/8-inch but don't quote me), an impact swivel, and a 6-inch extension, with an impact gun. That's how I did mine.
Heh. Oh, I've done that already. Impact isn't moving it. I'm not a small person, and with my nearly a foot and a half long 1 1/8" box wrench, I can probably generate quite a bit of torque. It ain't movin'.

I should take pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That sucks! I wont bitch about replacing a timing belt on a 93 honda accord now, you definatly had a worse day than I.
What's even more fun is breaking the top bolts off the shocks. With a 8" long 15mm wrench. Takes almost 2 full turns before they twist off.

IIRC, you need to remove the axle and you will have all the room you need to remove the nut. Don't torch it unless you have to.
Hmmmmm. Doesn't seem to be the case. I can barely get a wrench in there, with nothing left but the knuckle.
 

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How about a 3' section of pipe and then ur foot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I twisted my breaker bar already.

I'm just going to grind/sawzall them off.

Harbor Freight ball-joint press is kickin' butt on the axle u-joints, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So, here are some pics of what I'm dealing with:

Rusty upper balljoint nut:



Let's look a little closer:



A little rusty.

Lower one is much worse:



Cheap 2' breaker bar, plus me, trying to move that upper nut, results in this:




I used a sawsall on the upper nuts and a dremel on the lower nuts. I have to buy a torch set some day.



After cutting those, it still took the impact gun and/or breaker bar to get the nuts off. And after getting the nut off, well, yes, you guessed it. Still stuck.



I have a video of the slop in the lower ball joint, it's pretty scary. I left the video camera in the garage, though.

I've got the ball joint nuts cut through and removed, except for one. I'm still working on getting the knuckles off, so I can press the old joints out and new joints in. Still working on changing out the front axle u-joints as well. Wrecked the tie-rod ends when they wouldn't come loose from the knuckles, so now I have new ones of those to put on. Probably not going to do the inner u-joint, unless I can get to it on the vehicle. I don't want to drop the chunk at this time. A lot of stuff is getting put on hold, and I'm just trying to get everything back together again. This was a huge hassle, all in all, much bigger than I expected. Welcome to Michigan.

I know now that this truck is never getting a TTB lift, though, unless I put a whole new TTB under it. Those radius arms are never coming loose from the axle beams.
 

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Wow, that was pretty badly corroded. If you had sprayed it with a good penetrating fluid like Lloyds and let it sit over night, it may have come loose...or maybe not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It sat in multiple applications of Kroil for about 36 hours total. Even after cutting the nut, it was still stuck. The thing was basically one piece of rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm guessing I probably need to replace my camber adjusters, as well. Are these like Rangers, where you have to know what degree range to buy?

edit: never mind, I see how it works now. I'll just make sure to break them loose, so I don't get an extra labor bill from the alignment shop.
 
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