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Does anyone have the instructions on how to change out the door lock actuators for a '92 5.8L Bronco XLT? Both have gone bad, and I have no way to lock my driver door, and the passenger door can lock by pressing down on the little nub, but can only be unlocked by pulling on the inside handle. My key doesn't work, but I'm pretty sure it's because the outside locks are keyed differently than the ignition cylinder. Those I'm gonna take to a friend who is a locksmith to see if they can be rekeyed. I want to get this fixed fast because the guy I bought it from installed an aftermarket stereo system, and I'm at a college, where someone stole my left side blinker lightbulb.....
 

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Just pull out the lock tumbler and take it to any neighborhood locksmith. My locksmith has keys for Ford going back a long way and found a match in 10 minutes. $20 for two new keys.
 

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Does anyone have the instructions on how to change out the door lock actuators for a '92 5.8L Bronco XLT? Both have gone bad, and I have no way to lock my driver door, and the passenger door can lock by pressing down on the little nub, but can only be unlocked by pulling on the inside handle. My key doesn't work, but I'm pretty sure it's because the outside locks are keyed differently than the ignition cylinder. Those I'm gonna take to a friend who is a locksmith to see if they can be rekeyed. I want to get this fixed fast because the guy I bought it from installed an aftermarket stereo system, and I'm at a college, where someone stole my left side blinker lightbulb.....
yo G,
This is by Ford in a 96, but same as your year;
Actuator, Power Door Lock
Removal
1.Remove front door trim panel (23942). Refer to Section 01-05.
2.Drill out power door lock actuator (218A42) retaining pop rivet.
3.Disconnect wire harness connector on power door lock actuator.
4.Disconnect latch lock rod from power door lock actuator.
5.Remove power door lock actuator.

Installation
1.Follow removal procedures in reverse order

See attached pic below;
Item Part Number Description

1 — Window Regulator and Door Lock Control Switch Connector
2 — Door Disarm Pigtail
3 218A42 Power Door Lock Actuator
4 — Wiring Harness Locator Hole
5 23394 Window Regulator Electric Drive
6 14A509 (LH) Wiring Assembly
7 14529 (RH) Wiring Assembly
=============

Actuator, Power Fastening Discussion
Source: by members at FSB http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37200


Actuator, Power Fastening in a 91
Source: by k1w1t1m
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37200

excerpts and remarks;
"no pics"
Ironic wrote "Replaced drivers side actuator a few weeks back- pushed them downward and wiggled them side to side and they slid out of the bracket. No drilling involved. "
 

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I've had good luck just snapping the old actuator out of the bracket and popping the new one back in. Saves on drilling and riveting.
 

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Grimxripper: make sure you wear long sleeves and have a supply of band aids around. The inside sheetmetal can be sharp.

I've been able to snap them in and out, but drilling the rivet is much faster/easier/less bloody. Problem is the tool required can range from $30 - $200. Even if you opted for the cheapy, it's like a set of long bolt cutters, and who needs that at college? The other option is to take it to a body shop and have them re-rivet the bracket / actuator assy while the door is torn a part. They should also have the correct rivet. Others have done it, but I am not a fan of the nut/bolt solution except when there is no option.

If you passenger door lock doesn't work with the key, and the driver side does, I'd suspect:
1) pass door was replaced (accident etc.) and lock not changed;
2) actuator/mechanism is preventing it from moving;
3) Someone replaced the Ignition and driver door lock with a matched set from a j/y.

If it doesn't work after you disconnect the actuator, and you care, pull it and take it to a qualified locksmith to get it re-pinned. To save time I'd recommend calling around to see if they specialize in automotive. Some locksmiths don't have the parts for the "older" vehicles. Take the lock and an extra key.
 

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Why not? It's stronger than a rivet, and doesn't require special tools. If you use a nylock nut, it'll stay where you put it. But removing the motors from their brackets makes all of that moot.
1) Never heard of a door lock actuator rivet breaking;
2) If one works on cars a lot, especially body work and windows, it's not really that special. It's just a big pop rivet gun. Besides, to me, who cares if a special tool helps me expedite or facilitate the process.
3) I've skinned my arms/ wrists too many times on the inside door sheetmetal to screw around with trying to twist, pull, pry it from the mount, especially when there are easier and faster options.
4) Ford probably used it (rivet) because it was faster and cheaper in production. in this case, I agree with them.
5) Finally ;) , and my favorite......I guess if I were "in this" to avoid spending money on tools, I'd let someone else work on my car. Hell buying fun tools is half the fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How do you know?
I pulled out the driver side lock actuator, which was covered in some sort of melted-like rubber/plastic. The top was broken, and the gear was spinning and there was nothing for the lock lever to grip on. The other side sounds the same, but I have yet to pull it out. I should have pics of it soon.
 
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I did find out that if you mention that you are going to change out the passenger side lock on here, it will start to work perfectly.:banghead
 
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Just as a warning, your door is grounded. Ha ha... I took off the door panel, so that I could open the driver door from inside (driver door handle broke), and pushed the switch bundle against the door to tape it up, and sparks went flying... Just a warning in case you forget.
 
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I did this a few weeks back on my 96 by popping the actuators out and replacing them.

Lessons:

1. Wear long sleeves. It looked like I lost a fight with an angry cat.
2. The clip has holes that pop over little cylindrical tabs molded into the housing to keep the actuators in place. After 30ish attempts to push this in with limited visibility and almost no leverage, I figured I could shave a little off the these tabs to make enough of a bevel to push them in without having to pry the clip apart. This was much easier.
3. Drilling and replacing the rivets would have been a LOT easier but I didn't know where to get proper replacements.
4. Check your switches, too. After replacing mine, they still didn't work 100%. Pop the covers off the switches and spray a little deoxit in there and that may be all you need. In retrospect, that was all I needed.

At least I have new actuators!
 

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I got some of my rivets from a body shop supply store,
They are also available at places like Kimball Midwest or other large automotive shop suppliers. I didn't look at the Ford dealer as the other supplier was easier.

If you have the rivets, and didn't want to buy the tool, you might be able to find a local bodyshop that would put them in at a reasonable rate.

You're right with the cat-fight analogy. I also have the added disadvantage of meat-hook hands.
 

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Ok so Im digging into my actuator on the passenger side... what am I looking to do to unhook the rod? I dont want to break anything. Thanks in advance
 

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What a pain this is. Was trying to replace my passenger door actuator and got frustrated as all hell. Read this thread and was about to try the bevel technique. So I took the old one to the grinder to practice the bevel. Looked good so went to pull the replacement back out and pop...... one side went in. Then was able to get the other side back in.

No tricks here to help with but I believe the bevel trick is the way to go in the future.
 

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Thanks for this POST..i AM doing this now on my 1987 XLT...SAME SETUP....

STEVE83 suggestion is very helpful...here is what helped save my skin !

I used a flat pry-bar about 18" long a stuck it between the bracket and the bracket part nearest the door skin. ....

AGAIN go to the bracket side furthest in and closest to the door skin..it seems tighter there.

So a simple twist of the wrist and the inside bracket finger lets go..

I also unplugged the two actuator rods from inside the door and did not remove the door latch assembly... (the bolts were in TOOO TIGHT FOR ME TO REMOVE the three of of them...I will post more when my parts get here and I do the reinstall.. found many of our pick links dead so i added this new working link https://broncozone.com/topic/14647-how-to-replace-electric-door-locks-door-lock-actuator/I hope this helps someone T also here is a completion pick of the actuator connected after the plastic clip was removed by me, more photos to follow.....https://broncozone.com/topic/14647-how-to-replace-electric-door-locks-door-lock-actuator/
 

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Pry them out of their mounts (it's difficult & painful), unplug them, remove the door latches, unhook the lock motor operating rods from the latches.

Click this & read the relevant captions:
1983 Ford Bronco Doors pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.netHow do you know?Why not? It's stronger than a rivet, and doesn't require special tools. If you use a nylock nut, it'll stay where you put it. But removing the motors from their brackets makes all of that moot.
Thanks for this POST..i AM doing this now on my 1987 XLT...SAME SETUP....
https://broncozone.com/topic/14647-how-to-replace-electric-door-locks-door-lock-actuator/
STEVE83 suggestion is very helpful...here is what helped save my skin !

I used a flat pry-bar about 18" long a stuck it between the bracket and the bracket part nearest the door skin. ....

AGAIN go to the bracket side furthest in and closest to the door skin..it seems tighter there.

So a simple twist of the wrist and the inside bracket finger lets go..

I also unplugged the two actuator rods from inside the door and did not remove the door latch assembly... (the bolts were in TOOO TIGHT FOR ME TO REMOVE the three of of them...I will post more when my parts get here and I do the reinstall..I hope this helps someone T
 

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This is what i Did on my 1987 exactly...pry on the bracket side closest to the inside of the door skin... FYI also sprayed rust inhibitor and rust preventing primer inside the doors and covered them with cool it thermo tek insulation mats.. here are some picks of my 87 xlt driver door attached are some picks of the inside door driver side where i did the RR....PS I BROKE THE PLASTIC clip in pic 3 and installed without THE PITA ..and it works fine
 

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