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Door Lock Actuators Fastening

7965 Views 17 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  89_Outlaw
Having recently had the misfortune of having a door actuator go bad I found that 1/4" rivets are hard to find as is the $100+ tool.

Unfortunately there are no pics as this was done between fits of rage.

Remove the mount off the actuator. You can do this by spreading the mount carefully and working the ears of the actuator mount pins.

Buy or have at hand a 1/4x20x0.5" panhead nut, bolt, and lock washer. Buy or have at hand some epoxy glue. (I used 5 minute Araldite)

Forget about the lock washer and install the nut and bolt in the mount with the nut in the "dish" of the mount. Tighten enough to seal the nut against the mount.

Mix a small amount of Epoxy glue and fill the area around the nut in the "dish". Allow to harden. I sat mine over my stove pilot flame for a while.

Remove the bolt and install the mount back on the actuator by carefully easing the ears over the pins.

Install the actuator back into the door and fasten with the bolt and lockwasher.

I hope this helps someone.

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That'll help neither of my actuators work.
i used a regular pop fine!!!
I took out the electric actuators and motor, and installed a set of manuals, with crank handles from the Help rack at the Zone, drilled out and used problems yet
neither of mine work. drivers side did till I sank the truck...damn elec motors

if i was home and i would have none, i could have gotten you some rivets for free.....Im real good friends with the sheet metal and metal techs guys
There is no problem if you have access to 1/4" rivets and a $100+ riveting gun. However most of us don't, especially for a "one use deal". And this way beats doing battles inside the door.
Are we talking about the power locks or manual? if manual, could someone post pics as I am having trouble with installing new locks on my '90....previous owner lost key.

Shy Guy
Replaced drivers side actuator a few weeks back- pushed them downward and wiggled them side to side and they slid out of the bracket. No drilling involved.
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i need to replace the actuator on my drivers side...i cant get the linkage off the actuator to get it out otherwise i can slide it in and out...any ideas? i cant see inside and i have to feel around (kinda like...nvmd) so ya...
Nice post!

k1w1t1m said:
Having recently had the misfortune of having a door actuator go bad I found that 1/4" rivets are hard to find as is the $100+ tool.
Some body shops will sell you the rivets and will even pop them in for you if you do all the prep work ahead of time. It only takes a few minutes. That's what I did with my rear glass. Got the rivets and had it put back on for less than $2. Of course the glass cost a buit more, but it beats the hell out of the labor they would have charged otherwise. :thumbup

I've seen Steve83 pics of door lock actuators, check it out!
Both mine are out so I just lubed everything and use the key for now. Another Bronco project with all the other Bronco projects. I dig my 86 FSB and I'm a preventative freak but these babies keep you busy! I found, they seem to have a wide variey of products but I don't have any experience yet but this is on the list of fix its!
just reach in and pull them out...grab it, rock it back and forth while pushing down. They are not permanently fastened to the mount.
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In my truck it was the round piece between the rivet and mount that rounded out. I pulled the whole assembly out and stuck a stainless 1/2 inch bolt in from the outside of the door and bolted it to the glued in nut onto the round piece also glued to the mount. :rockon

I drove the truck around for abou 6 months before I did that and now the lock works better than ever, nice since my alarm also locks the doors. I think it was loose for years since I used to sometimes find my door unlocked after arming the alarm.
I have seen the rivet gun at tool rental places. Every one I have bought they gave the rivet with it or they charged a $1 for it.
thanks for the idea. My PO punched out the rivet that holds it in. So now every time I make a turn I hear them bouncing back and forth inside the door. Plus sometimes my door lock will jam and I have to pull off the panel and straighten out the cable that is attached.
Mine went bad so I took them out and left the pigtail intact taped to the harness/sheetmetal inside so it won't interfere withn the window travel.
They range in price from $45.00 to $90.00 so I'll just use my key ~ lol lol

I don't see why a good set of locknuts and bolts wouldn't work to keep it from racheting when activated, it's a lot cheaper.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
Me and my bro just put some into our broncos...we bought four actuators for 25 bucks to the door off ebay...just made some custom mounts from the supplied brackets and pop riveted on with some smaller rivets and some like a charm and beats having to reach across for passengers.
I just did a write up on changeing manual PDL and PW to elec.. {in the tech section}.. with lots a pics.. 5/16 nuts and bolts are what they say replace the rivets.. you can also use 3/8.. I was fortunate enough to have a cousin in the glass business with a rivetor.. he already had all the rivets.. so everything went back to factory look.
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