Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
has one helluva
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hey guys. ive got my 95 f150 that i SAS'd...the transfer case that is in it is the one with the slip into the case. just today i went and pulled a flange style one off a 95 bronco in the JY, and also grabbed the rear dshaft...on the shaft what is a good way to see if the rear joint needs to be replaced....? both u joints and the cardan joint all feel tight?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
the cardan joint is a real pain in the a$$, i fought mine for hours and u know what I found a driveshaft shop did u joints and balanced again for cheap, shop around but id replace it why u got it out (u-joints) and maybe have them check the cardan joint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
580 Posts
You should be able to bend the Cardan joint around and see the surfaces of the interior of the joint. They shouldnt look galded or scored up. There is a little grease zert inside the joint. I would pump some grease into it and see if any comes out. If it comes out look and see if the grease is full of contaminants . Also if you can get any of the caps off of the old u joints you will want to look inside to see if there is any grease in it. If not I would assume that the former owner didnt pull any maintanence and would be leary of running it.

Another angle would be to take it to the local driveshaft repair place and ask their expert what his opinion is on it.
 

·
has one helluva
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok...well I had planned on taking it to a shop anyways to get it lengthened...ive never done this before so I dont really know price wise if im getting a good deal or not...they quoted me 250ish but thats without the joints I think
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,785 Posts
As you move the joint around, there should not be a dull spot while spinning it. Everything should rotate smoothly. Bad bearings will exhibit a rough spot, that will "freeze" motion, momentarily, or slow operation.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,549 Posts
$250 I bet covers all new u-joints as well.

Most shops lengthening a drive line will not reuse old u-joints because they cannot garentee the balance of the shaft.
 

·
has one helluva
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok...well I had planned on taking it to a shop anyways to get it lengthened...ive never done this before so I dont really know price wise if im getting a good deal or not...they quoted me 250ish but thats without the joints I think
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,549 Posts
250 is a rip off without a complete rebuild of the shaft.

you can find new shafts online for about that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
x.2 thats a rip keep searching, and thats dumb in my opinion for the shop to reuse old u-joints when they gotta take them out anyway. Id double check that or shop around cause i had a driveshaft made for $300 and that was one of the expensive quotes i got.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
23,549 Posts
x.2 thats a rip keep searching, and thats dumb in my opinion for the shop to reuse old u-joints when they gotta take them out anyway. Id double check that or shop around cause i had a driveshaft made for $300 and that was one of the expensive quotes i got.
to lengthen a driveline you do not need to remove the u-joints.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,990 Posts
I just rebuilt/regreased (Mobil 1 syn) my double Cardan slip joint in July, 2 u-joints and a cv centering ball yoke for the middle of the knuckle and 1 u-joint for the rear yoke and cost of parts from O'Reillys using Master Pro joints, red tie-wraps and Mobil 1 synthetic grease was around $106.00 doing the labor myself.

Mine original ones were done a year before I bought the BKO from the PO who gave me all his paper work and that was approx. 9 years ago so they hadn't been greased since though they had plugs but no zerks and I'd been meaning to get after it but not until now......:rofl:

When I took off the caps you can see all the needles inside after a long time without grease the become flat and there was some rust residual as well from dry rubber seals, looking at the u-joint ends you can also see galling marks from excessive wear and lack of lubrication so I wouldn't recommend re-using any old parts.

This Thurs. I rebuilt the front shaft for a cost of $19.55 using Master Pro u-joints from O'Reillys but this time I rented the "ball joint/universal joint press tool" a massive thick C clamp with a big drive bar and if you return it with 48 hrs it's FREE, you get a full refund and all you need do is mount it in a decent vice grip and it works like a charm.

For the Cardan my gun club buddy has a massive industrial size vice grip that would crush a car......lol lol.....and I did all the labor on that but he wasn't available.

Harbor Freight sells the ball/u-joint press tool for $69.99 and with internet discount coupon 10 -15% less off the price.

Now ALL my new u-joints are greaseable so I'll visit them at least once a year from now on so they'll last a long time.

Some say that non-greasable u-joints are stronger simply because they don't have journal holes drilled through out for greasing, I guess it depends on how much Off Roading one does....BUT once you replace all the u-joints, you're gonna love the way it feels when you pull away from a dead stop at a traffic light, real tight and strong.

Post some pics Brother but I'm curious why you need to lengthen the drive shaft if it worked fine before, what's the advantage......?


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

·
has one helluva
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ill try to get pics later...the reason why I need it lengthened is because im swapping the bronco transfer case into my f150. The bronco is the flange style rear output, opposed to the rear slip output the I currently have. This is a much better design that would better suit my needs and also get me the double cardan for the rear, which would help out on my rear dshaft angle since my SAS..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,990 Posts
OK good to know Brother, check this thread: How often to grease slip joint? by FSB member 94BattleWagon.....it's what I used to help me learn and rebuild my rear Cardan done in July and this Thurs. I rebuilt my front slip joint drive shaft...SOOOOOOO MUCH easier.....lol lol

That thread has lots of exellent links posted by the guys so there's a great cross reference of pics and info, everything needed to help anyone understand.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
580 Posts
You never know what you are going to get into when taking a driveline into the drive line shop. You may even have bad yokes if you dont know what you are looking at. When they start taking it down to rebuild it you may run into bigger problems. I would think 250-300 would get you almost new everything though.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top