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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1995 Bronco with a 302 EFI. I want to buy a crate motor with some get up and go. I need to know what the most powerful engine I can put in this thing and still be compatible with my stock wiring and computer or what kind of programmable computer I need to buy to be able to put in what I want. I really don't want to put just another 302 into it. I don't drive it every day but want it to really go when it does. I will be upgrading the tranny and the rest too.
 

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Just drop an S trim supercharger on the motor you have. It will put well over 300 hp to the tires for about 3 or 4k dollars. Or better yet, since you will be primarily looking for torque, have a turbo setup built for it. Most kits designed for a mustang should work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
clarification

Sorry, I should have mentioned, the current engine was used too much when it was new. I am replacing it out of necessity. Thanks for the ideas though. If I cent find what I want, I may go that route with a new 302
 

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Local # 40 Boilermakers
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Ma you should check out this thread Steve did here a while back, I am sure you can find plenty more builds like this one useing the search.:thumbup

http://www.autofab.com/bronco2.htm

BTW I have spent plenty of time in the Waynesburge area, my mom and stepdad live around Jefferson along with a bunch of other friends and family, I was just up there for the 4th.
 

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Just drop an S trim supercharger on the motor you have. It will put well over 300 hp to the tires for about 3 or 4k dollars. Or better yet, since you will be primarily looking for torque, have a turbo setup built for it. Most kits designed for a mustang should work.
im not a expert but i thought a tubo had to get spooled up for full gains, when a supercharger is belt driven with results in better low end power
 

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im not a expert but i thought a tubo had to get spooled up for full gains, when a supercharger is belt driven with results in better low end power
Depending on the size and trim of turbo you go with, it may spool up high, or it may spool fairly instantly. So its not quite as simple as you stated it.


Now who the hell said you can use my screenname/ :rofl:
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Depending on the size and trim of turbo you go with, it may spool up high, or it may spool fairly instantly. So its not quite as simple as you stated it.


Now who the hell said you can use my screenname/ :rofl:
ive just always heard turbos were a no no for off road applications unless on a dirt track or something to that nature, yeah i saw something you posted on here the other day and relized that momma nick name for me isnt exactly original
 

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A set of small twin turbo's would make for an awsome offroad truck. Tons and Tons of torque at a fairly low rpm. They will keep building boost untill you let off the gas or the b.o.v settings are reached. Why do you think they use turbo's in the diesel pulling and offroad trucks.
 

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If it was me, which it isn't, but I would buy a 347 stroker kit, stuff it in a freshly prepped factory 5.0 block. Picking pistons to make about 9.5 or 10:1 compression. Then I'd stick a torquey roller cam in it with some small AFR or TrickFlow CNC'd heads. Match that with a good EFI intake for torque, and put properly sized fuel injectors on the rail, like 24 or 30lbers. Perhaps a 190lph pump in the fuel tank, and the other supporting goodies on the intake and exhaust side. Then get an ECU programmed for optimization of your setup. That would get you some GOOD power increases (MUCH better than your stock setup) while staying within the confines of your current block's deck height, and current underhood configuration.

A turbo or supercharger usually require more tinkering overall, and reduce engine longevity ... although a small boost in psi is reasonable.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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5.8L would be more cost-effective.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks

Thanks everyone. I really never expected this many replies. I appreciate the help.

I started looking into 351W crate engines and this is what I found so far that interests me:
Ford 351W crate engine with 395hp @ 6000rpm and 393ft lbs of torque @ 4500rpm. This engine has a rough idle with enough cam to give it that muscle car sound but is still mild enough to be reliable for that everyday driver or restoration project. This engine works best with a 2500 stall speed converter if being used with an automatic transmission. This engine runs on leaded or unleaded premium pump fuel.

The balanced rotating assembly (typically includes crankshaft, pistons, rings, connecting rods, rod bearings, and balancer) featured in this engine:

* 3.500" stroke nodular iron crank
* 5.956" forged rods with ARP rod bolts
* 9.2 to 1 compression hypereutectic pistons

More special features of this engine include:

* Seasoned block that has been vatted, magnafluxed for cracks, thermal cleaned and steelabrated, bored, honed and plateau honed to fit new flat top oversized pistons
* Deck head gasket surface on block to ensure a good long lasting seal
* New CompCams Hydraulic flat tappet cam with over .500" valve lift
* Heads have 3-angle valve job
* Heads have 1.940"Int/1.600"Exh valves
* Both heads have been resurfaced to ensure a good long lasting seal
* New Hardened exhaust seats for use with leaded or unleaded fuel
* New High performance 1.440" springs set up to match cam
* New Valve seals
* New Valve guides
* New Screw-in rocker studs with guide plates
* New 1.6 roller tip rocker arms with balls and nuts
* New Oversize hypereutectic pistons and rings
* New Hardened push rods for use with guide plates
* New Heavy duty double row timing set
* New High volume oil pump
* New Revolutionary 1-pc design molded rubber oil pan gasket with load limiters to prevent over-tightening and higher temperature resistance than standard cork-rubber gaskets
* New Brass expansion plugs
* New Oversize main and rod bearings to fit reground 3.500" stroke crankshaft
* New Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane aluminum intake manifold
* All parts are painted separately before assembly for that show quality look

If I use my stock EFI and wiring and change out the computer with a stock computer from a 351W do you think I will be able to make this or something similar work? I am all for getting a programmable computer if that is what it takes. I really don't have a budget, I am going to spend this Bronco into submission. The EFI really intimidates me because I have never messed with it before. My last toy was a 79 F250 with a 351M that I rebuilt to a 400. It is still running as far as I know.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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That engine is set up for a carburetor, so you'd have to, at a minimum, get a fuel injection manifold for it. Then injectors, MAF, regulator, etc.

Fuel injection is easy, and makes the life of a tuner MUCH easier. Anyone that says otherwise just hasn't worked with it, can't learn anything new, or is plainly ignorant on the subject. If you were to change the computer, you'd have a heck of a time finding a mass-air PCM for a 5.8L (without OBD-II). Trust me, I have one of them, and it's also one of the most-rare PCMs out there. The reason is because it was a California-only PCM for the 1995 model year only.

Anyhow, your most cost-effective option would be to keep your current PCM and either a) get someone to burn a chip for you that reflects the changes in your setup, or b) buy a hardware & software that allow you to tune it yourself, e.g. a Moates QuarterHorse and Clint Garrity's Binary Editor, respectively. This is assuming your current PCM is mass-air (you have a MAF sensor attached to your air filter box), and your PCM is supported. If it's not supported, there are many PCMs that are, and can easily be swapped into your Bronco.

Having the control system under wraps, you're more free to do what you like as far as the engine is concerned. You should perhaps start looking at the supporting cast as well, including the rest of the drive train, the exhaust, suspension, etc. if you're pushing power into the stratosphere. The rear suspension on these trucks are NOT made for high horsepower or speed; even at my power level (300+ hp, 400 lbf*ft), it can get squirrelly as shit in straight-line acceleration.

I'd suggest talking to a local engine builder, and make sure your honest with him/her about the application. It's a heavy truck, so you do not need a racing engine. You need something that's going to make a lot of torque, especially down low. Displacement will be your best friend.
 
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