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Sayulita Layta!
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Discussion Starter #1
I went to take my rear drive shaft out to lube up the slip shaft to try and eliminate my clunk. I took the 4 bolts out of the pinion side because I couldnt get any of my tools up on the transfer case side. The damn shaft wouldnt come out! :banghead I tried it with the truck in park, in neutral, with and without the parking break on. I tried my foot, pulling on it trying to compress it and nothing would move.



:whiteflag What am I doing wrong?
 

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You shouldn't need to remove it to lube the slip-shaft. Doesn't it have a grease fitting?

Also if it's clunking, make sure you check the u-joints real good. They are usually the culprit with clunking.
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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Discussion Starter #4
I tried a pry bar and couldnt find a real solid place to put it. I dont have a zerk on my rear Drive shaft, so it has to come apart. I couldnt get the shaft to compress at all, no matter what I did to it. :madder


As for the u joints, I noticed some kind of play when i was twisting it (in neutral) and stopping it quickly. I couldnt tell if it was coming from the DC u-joints or from the transfer case tail housing...



I still want to lube the slip shaft first because I already have the lube and it was much cheaper than u joints. Either way, the shaft would have to come out.
 

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You mean like you couldn't get the driveshaft yokes off the flanges of the rear/transfer case? Like they were stuck to them? If so, BFH and smack it a few times... it'll pop loose.
 

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Kitteh Commandaar!
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They said it. Lube. Tire iron/prybar. And a BFH. It WILL come loose eventually. :thumbup
 

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Lick my balls
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make sure you block your wheels if you have it in nuetral when removing the shaft and tap it like steve said, not a BFH either.
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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Discussion Starter #9
The companion flange is seized to the rear axle pinion flange. Shoot some penetrating oil into the hole in the middle of the companion flange, let it soak, & then tap/pry them apart.
thats exactly what Im talking about. I will try that tonight, tap it apart with a soft headed hammer right?
 

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I had the same problem. I didnt want to send the time fight the shaft so I just removed the slip yoke boot and packed the grease in. My "clunk" went away and its been 6 months since.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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thats exactly what Im talking about. I will try that tonight, tap it apart with a soft headed hammer right?
yea, NO soft hammer. The penetrant steve mentions and a shock is what is needed to release the rusted together situation you have, which is pretty common. Hit it lightly with a large steel hammer, on the flange not the driveshaft, and have your other hand on it cuz when it pops free it will come right down on your noggin' if you're under there.

I think the last time I put mine back together I used a VERY light amount of antiseize between the flanges, or at least these days that's what I did up top since I no longer have a lower flange setup.
 

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You could also put a pot jack under the yoke and lift on it a bit.

Back when I was young and dumb, I stood on the brakes and put it in gear to get one broken loose. It worked.
 

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Use pry bar to compress it. You should be able to get the pry bar between the flange and mounting flange.

I used a big screw driver and mine popped right out.
 

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putit in 4lo, squish the brakes and switch from D to R. you probably would even have to use the gas and in 4lo at idle its not going to hurt anything...













i think... and yes, i am young, and very dumb.
 

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How many times did the d'shaft bounce off the frame/muffler/ground before you got the trans into P, how much did the new d'shaft cost, and how long did it take to arrive? :rolleyes:
Bungee cords :brownbag


Seriously, or ratchet straps. one over and one under. when it breaks loose they act like a driveshaft hoop.

Justin
 

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Lick my balls
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You could also put a pot jack under the yoke and lift on it a bit.

Back when I was young and dumb, I stood on the brakes and put it in gear to get one broken loose. It worked.
putit in 4lo, squish the brakes and switch from D to R. you probably would even have to use the gas and in 4lo at idle its not going to hurt anything...














i think... and yes, i am young, and very dumb.
:duh:doh0715:
 

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hey, if it works it works.

it's like when you need to change a pinion seal when you're minus an impact or decent amount of pipe. You put a breaker bar on the pinion nut and wedge it against the ground, drive and it'll break it loose. to tighten repeat in the opposite direction.


Justin
 
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