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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a Procomp lift. I just discovered my driver side radius arm is broken. Anyone have this happen? I have reached out to procomp hoping for a response
3160A2D7-C459-4DAC-9E81-26349D29D69B.jpeg
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I sent an email to ProComp with the picture. I also called and spoke to someone and they stated it will probably get replaced under warranty.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
well ProComp came through and sent me a replacement radius arm. I placed the request on monday of this week so a 3 day turn around is outstanding.

. unfortunately I didn't specify what color i needed so they sent me a Black arm instead of the Grey arm I had. So i will take this opportunity to get the other arm redone to match. I'm tempted to take the axle pivot brackets off and get them painted as well. Ive noticed the paint/powdercoat is cracking due to years of flexing i am sure.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Got the old arm pulled. I’m going to clean up the surface rust on the frame and diff and paint them up. New arm , I got feedback from ProComp saying they can not get these in Grey. oh well.

Question, there is a pad of sorts that sits below the coil spring. mine are showing some wear. where would i get these? I can post pictures if that would help.

I also discovered that my shocks are toast, I am not going to replace the Aux shock. Plan is to run a single Bilstein 5100's anyone have a good site to buy? Amazon shows these for $85/shock
 

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Super Moderator
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14,772 Posts
glad to hear hey warrantied them out..what's the condition of the other side? I'd be worried about that one failing similarly.
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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4,880 Posts
Check your housing and make sure it isn't cracked near the mounting holes. Had one break on me and the housing had fatigued and broke. It ended up ripping the drive shaft apart.

 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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4,880 Posts
I ended up plating and gusseting mine ......



until I got my cut-n-turn reinforced housings:

 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
glad to hear hey warrantied them out..what's the condition of the other side? I'd be worried about that one failing similarly.
the other side looks good at this point. I will be removing it so i can get it painted to match. the heavy powder coating in that area doesnt look cracked yet.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Check your housing and make sure it isn't cracked near the mounting holes. Had one break on me and the housing had fatigued and broke. It ended up ripping the drive shaft apart.

I'll have to look again. unfortunately cut/turned beams just aren't in the financial cards.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,009 Posts
What pad under the spring are you referring to? The insulator or the actual mushroom shaped piece of metal that the spring sits on?

These PC radius arms are pretty tough. Saw a bronco in the JY with em that had rolled a few times. The drivers side as bent like a pretzel, but not broken. Passenger side came home with me.

I took have the gray vein powder coat on my PC lift arms and brackets. Its definitely peeling on the radius arms but they ate over 15 years old
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
the insulator pad on top of that mushroom shaped deal. I'll see about getting a picture.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
what radius arm bushings should i go with. my passenger side is running a different rad bushing then the drivers side. the drivers side is the 3 part bushing. I found the pass side didnt like this setup so i went with the 2 piece over there. the 2 piece is much thicker bushings and i am only able to get 4-5 threads showing with the nut torqued down.

with me running 37's i want the bushings to hold up well. suggestions?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
im looking at Bilstein shocks up front. I originally had aux shock as well. now i plan to just run the single shock. Bilstein says this model 24-065283 is correct for a 6" lift. With that said i wonder if running a slightly longer shock would add benefit.
33-230450 is a 5125 and has a bit more range
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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4,880 Posts
If you run a longer than necessary shock, be sure to check the compressed length so that it doesn't bottom out.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Oh good call CobraJoe... installing the coil spring and radius arm and then using a floor jack to check for max collapsed length the correct way?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Getting this all put back together. Are these easy to get , they sit under the coil bucket. I would prefer black
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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4,880 Posts

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I went ahead an painted mine. Thanks for the link CobraJoe... i bookmarked this in the event i change my mind. I got some 5100's ordered and should arrive Wednesday. Everything went together so nicely.
Next task on the list is installing my 6* shims on the rear leafs. I should get started on this tonight.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Got the shocks , now I seem to be overthinking the install. The install instructions suck. Anyhow which way do the bushings go. I know one spacer goes thru the bottom eye hole bushing. Does the other spacer go up top over the stem?
 

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