same problem on my mustang, deff. interested in seeing whats up
Drivers side power window
Hello to all the Bronco owners out there. I need some advice please.
I have a '94 Bronco Eddie Bauer and the drivers side window is giving me some problems. It works every other day. By that I mean it goes up and down with no problems one day and the next it doesn't do anything.
On the days it doesn't work I can push the button and see the alternator gauge move a bit so it makes me tend to believe the button is still good and power is getting to the motor.
I have taken the door panel off and checked all of the connections and everything that I have seen seems to be connected properly. If it would just quit working and stayed like that I would tend to think a new window motor would be the right answer. All of my other windows work fine. Fuses are good
Has anyone else ever experienced this problem and if so what's the problem?
Thanks for any advice.
I have a '94 Bronco Eddie Bauer and the drivers side window is giving me some problems. It works every other day. By that I mean it goes up and down with no problems one day and the next it doesn't do anything.
On the days it doesn't work I can push the button and see the alternator gauge move a bit so it makes me tend to believe the button is still good and power is getting to the motor.
I have taken the door panel off and checked all of the connections and everything that I have seen seems to be connected properly. If it would just quit working and stayed like that I would tend to think a new window motor would be the right answer. All of my other windows work fine. Fuses are good
Has anyone else ever experienced this problem and if so what's the problem?
Thanks for any advice.
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Did you check voltage across the motor connector while you had the panel off & the button pressed? It would be REALLY useful to know that voltage when the motor is NOT working.On the days it doesn't work I can push the button and see the alternator gauge move a bit so it makes me tend to believe the button is still good and power is getting to the motor. I have taken the door panel off and checked all of the connections...
Thats's what the SEARCH feature is for.Has anyone else ever experienced this problem and if so what's the problem?
I get the same thing on the pas side. When it does what you describe, I just need to hit the door with my fist and it will work again. I seems to do it only when it is all the way down, or all the way up. Since it is the pas side, it doesn't bother me too much. What I have been doing for several years now, is not go all the way down and when I think about it, not go all the way up. I just back it off ever so slightly and that is working for me so far.
I had a similar problem. I found a bunch of gunk on the roller guide in the slides. I cleaned it up and added some teflon lube. It seemed to take care of teh problem.
Same thing, passenger side, 89 bronco. New motor; from eBay.
Voltmeter drops big-time when I hit the switch. Drop the motor, it runs fine. Put it back in, it runs fine. Until I lower it in Albuquerque in a high crime neighborhood. Then it stays down.
Voltmeter drops big-time when I hit the switch. Drop the motor, it runs fine. Put it back in, it runs fine. Until I lower it in Albuquerque in a high crime neighborhood. Then it stays down.
:stupidI get the same thing on the pas side. When it does what you describe, I just need to hit the door with my fist and it will work again. I seems to do it only when it is all the way down, or all the way up. Since it is the pas side, it doesn't bother me too much. What I have been doing for several years now, is not go all the way down and when I think about it, not go all the way up. I just back it off ever so slightly and that is working for me so far.
Exactly what my '96 does sometimes.
I just tap the door with my hand or open and close it and it's all good again
If vibrating the motor causes it work again temporarily, the motor is bad.
Kind of figured it out for now. When the sun heats the drivers side door up the window doesnt work. When it is kept out of the direct sun it works fine. Okay I'm putting it out there so go easy on me with my dumb question, why is it not working when it gets full sun? Does extreme heat effect the motor? I guess it would be time for a new motor if the heat is effecting it. Thanks for the info.
Yep my drivers side power window won't go up. I'm having the same window problem with an 89 Eddie. Drivers window went up fine and then stopped. Other windows work fine. Then next day tried it in the parkade and it worked. Power window motor worked, window went down real quick. No problem. Now same problem - the window won't work & go down at all. I click the drivers side power window switch - and nothing. I took a look at the power window switch and all wires are connected and not loose. Not tech enough to know how to check the voltage (Any instructions welcomed). I was thinking maybe a loose connection to the motor. So now I have to take off the door cover and look at drivers side window motor. Any other ideas?
Take the panel off, clean the track the best you can. Then grease the track, especially around the slide that moves in the track. Grit and grime causes the window to get in a bind alot of times, which when you press the button it doesnt move and causes your volt gauge to drop. also, check and make sure the wires are plugged into the motor securely. This works wonders on the back window as well.
Good luck. :thumbup
Good luck. :thumbup
My window goes down great no problem at all, but when trying to put it up it will go sometimes fast, sometimes slow, and sometimes not at all.
Did anyone every find a solution to this issue? My driver side window does the same thing. It works every other day. It goes up and down with no problems one day and the next it doesn't do anything.
Yo Seth,
You have a 93, correct?
You could just have a tired motor or a bind, lowering the window is easier than raising it sice you have gravity working for you going down and against you going up.
I would try jumpering the motor direct by disconnecting the plug and putting 12V directly on the pins to the motor, swapping the leads will change the direction of the motor. So if it is up and nothing happens, swap the leads and it should go down. Then swap the leads and see how well it works. If jumpering it direct still exhibits the same symptom, then:
First check for a bind in the track. A worn regulator mechanism often causes the window to bind when going up. It causes the window to shift and try to go up at an angle insted of strait. If that is OK then:
Second remove the motor and check the condition of the gear. If it looks good, then you probably have a tired motor.
However, if the motor works just fine when jumpering it then you have a wiring problem.
The problem could be the ground path which originates on the driver side and then goes to the passenger side. It goes thru two flex points where the wires transition from the door to the body and back again to the passenger side. Wires in those areas tend to break but they don't break all at once, they go strand by strand which gives a high resistance path for current to flow thru and causes the motor to be sluggish and first noticable in the up direction.
One assumption I have made for the above proceedure is that if the problem is with the Passeger side window and you have the same symptom from either door control. If not, then the +12V path is to that particular window is suspect
Symptom Chart — Windows
PINPOINT TEST B: SINGLE POWER WINDOW INOPERATIVE
B1 DETERMINE INOPERATIVE WINDOW
Is passenger door window inoperative?
B2 CHECK INOPERATIVE WINDOW POWER SUPPLY
B3 CHECK INOPERATIVE WINDOW MOTOR CIRCUITS
B4 CHECK CIRCUIT CONTINUITY
B5 CHECK POWER WINDOW MOTOR
You have a 93, correct?
You could just have a tired motor or a bind, lowering the window is easier than raising it sice you have gravity working for you going down and against you going up.
I would try jumpering the motor direct by disconnecting the plug and putting 12V directly on the pins to the motor, swapping the leads will change the direction of the motor. So if it is up and nothing happens, swap the leads and it should go down. Then swap the leads and see how well it works. If jumpering it direct still exhibits the same symptom, then:
First check for a bind in the track. A worn regulator mechanism often causes the window to bind when going up. It causes the window to shift and try to go up at an angle insted of strait. If that is OK then:
Second remove the motor and check the condition of the gear. If it looks good, then you probably have a tired motor.
However, if the motor works just fine when jumpering it then you have a wiring problem.
The problem could be the ground path which originates on the driver side and then goes to the passenger side. It goes thru two flex points where the wires transition from the door to the body and back again to the passenger side. Wires in those areas tend to break but they don't break all at once, they go strand by strand which gives a high resistance path for current to flow thru and causes the motor to be sluggish and first noticable in the up direction.
One assumption I have made for the above proceedure is that if the problem is with the Passeger side window and you have the same symptom from either door control. If not, then the +12V path is to that particular window is suspect
Symptom Chart — Windows
| Condition | Possible Source | Action |
|---|---|---|
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B1 DETERMINE INOPERATIVE WINDOW
Is passenger door window inoperative?
B2 CHECK INOPERATIVE WINDOW POWER SUPPLY
- Remove left window regulator control switch per outline.
- Using test lamp, connect lead to a known good ground.
- Using chart below, connect test lamp to appropriate circuit.
- Actuate window regulator control switch in appropriate direction and observe test lamp.
PinCircuitCircuit Function15226 (W/BK)Left Front Window Up8227 (Y)Left Front Window Down13314 (T/LB)Right Front Window Down6313 (W/Y)Right Front Window Up10317 (GY/O)Left Rear Window Up12316 (Y/LB)Left Rear Window Down11320 (R/BK)Right Rear Window Up13319 (Y/BK)Right Rear Window Down
| Yes | No |
|---|---|
| GO to B3. | REPLACE window regulator control switch. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system. |
- Gain access to inoperative window regulator electric drive connector as outlined.
- Disconnect window regulator electric drive connector.
- Connect test lamp lead to a known good ground.
- Using chart below, connect other end of test lamp to appropriate circuit.
- Actuate window regulator control switch in proper direction and observe test lamp.
PinCircuitCircuit Function15226 (W/BK)Left Front Window Up8227 (Y)Left Front Window Down6333 (Y/R)Right Front Window Up10334 (R/Y)Right Front Window Down4333 (Y/R)Left Rear Window Up2334 (R/Y)Left Rear Window Down4333 (Y/R)Right Rear Window Up2334 (R/Y)Right Rear Window Down
B4 CHECK CIRCUIT CONTINUITY
- Disconnect left window regulator control switch.
- Using ohmmeter, check resistance of suspect circuit between harness connector and left window regulator control switch.
| Yes | No |
|---|---|
| GO to B5. | SERVICE open circuit. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system. |
- Using a jumper wire, connect one end to battery positive, connect other end to Pin 1 at window regulator electric drive.
- With a second jumper wire, connect one end to a known good ground. Momentarily connect other end of jumper wire to Pin 2 of window regulator electric drive.
- To reverse window regulator electric drive direction, switch jumper leads at window regulator electric drive.
| Yes | No |
|---|---|
| Power window OK. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system. | REPLACE window regulator electric drive. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system. |
them plastic bushions was mine culprit. it would work then it would. i guess as the gunk left over got hot in the grease it would quit holding. did the nuts trick and fixed it.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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