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Does anyone have a pic of there driveshaft angle with a 6" lift? If you do please post it. Mine looks to be a little steep.
 

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With a 6" lift your going to need an extended spline drive shaft. The stock one will drive your truck but will lead to problems soon. If anyone tells you differently don't listen to them!
 

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The Anti Yam!
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With a 6" lift your going to need an extended spline drive shaft. The stock one will drive your truck but will lead to problems soon. If anyone tells you differently don't listen to them!
I have over 3" of spline engagment at full droop witha 6" lift. So do hundreds of others on this board.

Full droop with all but full spline engagement.


Shaft seperated for measuring


Besides, I think he is talking about the driveshaft angle, posably compared to pinion angle.
 

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It is gonna be a steep angle, Does it vibrate while your driving? I put 4* shims in the rear to help with pinion angle and to stop from killing any U-Joints. And I also had the tubing extended 1 inch to make sure the slip yoke didnt come apart when at full droop. But I also at the time had an AOD not an E4OD, I now have a ZF and had to change the D-shafts all over again.
 

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I never had to extend mine with the 6". Never had any problems.
 

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Yeeeeehaw Y'all!
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With a 6" lift your going to need an extended spline drive shaft. The stock one will drive your truck but will lead to problems soon. If anyone tells you differently don't listen to them!
Like many others on this board, I've had a 6 inch lift on mine for years and wheel the piss out of it and no extended drive shaft and no problems. I used a Superlift leafs and a shackle flip on the rear. Only thing I went back and altered was I re-added the factory wedges to get better drive shaft angle.
 

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yea mine is steep. pretty good vibration at low speeds.
 

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I also drove for a couple years with the 6" lift and no problems. Make sure the pinion is pointed at the back of the tcase and you should be fine. My Skyjacker springs had the right shims attached so I didn't need to stack with the stock wedge.
 

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do you have both the original wedge and the new block on the rear I found that I had to have both because the angle is good for drive line clearance. you don't want to grind the joints to clear the angle.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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There just standard 3-Ton stands, there not taller than any regular stand. If you look close at the pic, the stands are fully extended but the drum is only about 3" from hitting the ground.

That price for those stands is actually quite good. I'm going to keep a link to that for purchase when I do my SAS.
 

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There just standard 3-Ton stands, there not taller than any regular stand. If you look close at the pic, the stands are fully extended but the drum is only about 3" from hitting the ground.

That price for those stands is actually quite good. I'm going to keep a link to that for purchase when I do my SAS.

Ok, it looked like it was sitting higher. I have a set of 4 ton that I like, but they are no good for the frame, just too low. I have 27" to the bottom of the frame horns in the front of the truck, and like to have it sit level when I'm under there. I also need to replace the TTB pivot bushings (poly, already have them in the garage). Maybe I'll just get these (can't find anything close to them locally) and report on the experience.

Thanks. man.

--MIKE--
 

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Does anyone have a pic of there driveshaft angle with a 6" lift? If you do please post it. Mine looks to be a little steep.
A pic is not going to help you much. You tell us:

1) with an angle finder (which is $15), what angle is your Dshaft at currently?
2) confirm you have a Double cardan joint up top, in which case also confirm you have wedges between your springs and leafs, which effectively rotates your pinion up and pointing toward the Tcase. check the angle of your pinion so we know how much angularity your lower pinion-end Ujoint is operating at.

And I can tell you if your setup is fine angle-wise.;)

It should be if it's a simple 6" lift installed correctly.
 
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