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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1986 xtl ford bronco
1986 fi system

199? 302 roller block, ho firing order
roller hydraulic lifters new
rebuilt head, valve seats, valves, valve guides, valve seALS, valve springs anything else?
new head gasket both sides
lower,upper,tb gasket
all new gaskets, seals, o rings all the way around the engine

today i was preforming couple of test because of dirvibility issue.

prefromed compression checked, and all my cylinders were within 75 precent of each other or between highest and lowest.

checked, and gapped spark plugs as needed. using autolite plugs i believe, as a side note, should i use original motor craft copper plugs to help?

(fixed a rough running issue on a john deere cng)

i inspected all the plugs and, plus 1,2,3, smell like gas, and are wet, kind of. plug 8 and all others look fine.

i was planning on purchasing the injector rebuild kit as per the injector rebuild tech right up. but as far as i see it would replace o rings, filters, pintle. but it dont think it would fix a leaking injector.

if not, i wes planning on getting injectors from the jy, preforming leak test, and make sure they open and not get stuck and measure 16 ohms (right?) and preform the rebuild on those


as far as the drivibility issue im trying to pass smog-failed last week

-new fuel filter, last changed idk
-dizzy cap, msd bought in jan
-dizzy rotor msd bought in jan
-new coil, didnt pass with msd coil on it because of no carb #
-spark plug wires bought last year, autozone, should i get ford racing wires? would it make a difference?
-air filter good
-oil change 500 miles ago w/ filter
-went threw 2 cans of carb cleaner i belive inspecting intake leak, upper,lower,tb,vacuum lines, egr,soliniod on side of tb, tps, and all sensors on intakes checking for leaks
-no codes, checked couple times
-havent checked fuel pressure yet
-going to check all system on air pump, valves, check valves and such.
-installed 0 gauge grounds, cleaned grounds before installing
-installed aut (idk to spell) gauge power cable to starter soliniod.
-02 sensor, but.. had to install my connector onto the end. (where can i get a original 02, or 02 with connector on it.)
-cats blown out, started to spit pieces out 1 week before smog. coming in the mail this week. would it help to warp the exhsuat piping to the cats to help keep the temp up and heat up the cats good before smogging or leave it alone.
-checked idle bypass or valve on side of tb by disconnecting it, works
-checked tps voltage-fine

was plannning on checking the pip, and all ignition conponets

base timing= 10 degrees btdc
computer timing =base timing + 20 degrees +/- 3 degrees so it would be 30 btdc a idle?

what else could i check, test, replace with original or good aftermarket with out burning a hole in a pocket,thank you all
 

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What kind of a driveability issues are you having exactly?

I second the guy above, check the fuel pressure put a vacuum gauge on it.
 

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Regarding codes, I would still perform KOEO = key engine off and KOER = key on engine running as a mater of routine diagnosis.....

www.fordfuelinjection.com offers O2 sensors but if your sensor end, harness end is missing you can crimp on a M/F clip temporarily so at least it works...O2 sensor life cycle is 30K miles so if your's approacing that go ahead and replace it BUT try the Denso O2, it's supposed to be a better product then a Bosch, some tech explanation where the Bosch has tendancy to run "richer"....

For PASSING any state smog test 100% you need to read FSB member Sixlitre's excellent thread: I done failed my smog test (tears) and apply all the infor, especially the use of 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol mixed in the gasoline right before testing.....I've this tech now twice, 2009 and just this past Sept. 2011 and I PASSED with flying colors, thought my 302EFI was brand new in 2008, I may only have 10k -12k miles ar this point but the procedure works..... assume you aren't familiar with it.

CATS are CATS...lol lol....and if they're shot you'l need to replace it/them, no way around that for smog..

Base timing should be OEM-BTDC = 10 degree's with the spOUT = spark output connector unplugged.......usually with a .44 plug gap using the lowest priced Autolites recommended, check the Haynes Manual....but for Cali smog I backed mine down to 8* BTDC and they didn't notice even putting a timing light on the hormonic balancer......anytime you change your timing if they question it, PLAY DUMB, I DON'T KNOW ETC.

Fender mounted "Starter Relays" should be easy to deal with regarding any issues but put a Bosch or Motorcraft on the wish list next time around.

I've been using 9mm Ford Motor Sport Racing wires for some time nowand I really like them, the set I have on now was new in 2008 when I swapped in the new 302 EFI long block and they're humming along but any new 8-8.5 wires will do.

FPR = fuel pressure regulator is a "vaccum issue" so there are no codes but engine off cranking should be 37 psi and engine running, 40 psi with the "vaccum line off"....

*Last, I don't understand this sentence: " -new coil, didnt pass with msd coil on it because of no carb # " ....?



Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cylinder 1 145 smells like fuel
cylinder 2 140 smells like fuel
cylinder 3 128 smells like fuel
cylinder 4 120
cylinder 5 125
cylinder 6 126
cylinder 7 130
cylinder 8 130

all those reads are in psi

my cats are shot, all post pics later of the cat pieces, got 2 coming in the mail for them.

just re checked my timing for 10 btdc good

i prefromed 2 tests onn the tfi on dizzy as per all data

i checked the voltage at the spout dizzy side with engine running, it was 6.5 +/.5 volts, test pass if voltage is 30-60% within battery voltage

then i did another test where you remove the tfi connecter and ohm between connector side pin 5 using a really thin dmm lead, and the spout connector on the tfi connector, if ohms greater than 5 ohms service wire, if ohms were less than 5 ohms, replACE TFI

TODAY went to the jy and picked up 4 imjectors ohming at 14.5 ohms. next to test them.

and i had to get a factory style coil because the smog tech asked me if i had a c.a.r.b. number for the coil. i did not. so fail, now with factory style no problrms

smog was like this

hc (ppm) co%
max ave meas max ave meas
15 mph 114 41 185 .74 .13 .76
25 mph 89 29 161 .54 .11 .71
 

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I don't what smonazibastards you're going to BUT I've been using 9mm Ford Motor Sport Racing wires, MSD cap, rotor and MSD Blaster TFI coil PN 8227 48K volt coil on my Bronco for several years now for Cali "test only facility" smog tests and most recently 2009 and 2011 which I passed with flying colors.

A. new Autolite plugs .44 gap, (least expensive)
B. lowered my BTDC OEM timing from 10* BTDC to 8* BTDC and they used a timing light but for some reason didn't pick up on it, didn't mention it.
C. drove BKO for 1 hour prior to test.
D. added 1/2 gallon of 91% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol to 1/4 tank of gasoline after 1 hr drive just prior to testing.
E. they never mentioned anything about the MSD products, especially the coil.....so what's up with that BS....?

Did a quick check on the MSD packaging and nothing there about c.a.r.b BUT if you google "approved c.a.r.b. ignition coils" it appears MSD is on the approved list but MSD.com has this statement on their website under "emissions compliance"

"Why a CARB “Executive Order” is Important to Consumers".....

Now I couldn't copy, drag etc. the whole dialog for some reason but read what it states basically is that they MSD support c.a.r.b and all their products are in complaince and they're constanly seeking new product licenses etc. etc. etc. however there's no email address, no toll free numbers on either MSD or Autotronic Controls Corp in TX....(915) 857-5200

So it's odd you failed with an approved product it seems? ....BUT call MSD/ACC and find out what the actully c.a.r.b. number is for ALL their coils so we all know ...and then go back to the "smognazibastards" and get some of your money back.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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You know that it'll fail smog with blown out cats.

With that being said, when you replace your cat, you might pass.

What drivability issues are you having?
 

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If they are factory replacement approved they may not need a CARB number on the coils.

For sure those emissions numbers should drop with new cats.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The issue I'm having a engine has a slight miss,
engine rpm has a slight fluxuation
Engine takes a dive in rpm when stepping into it. Rome drops then picks up
Engine shakes. I looked a carb 302 and that thing was steady

After some thinking

Going to get original motor craft plugs, that's what it came with from the factory, going to purchase the Ford racing plugs wire set. Run my msd coil. And tell him to stick it.

Had to either fail smog or pay late fees . I waited till last minute :)

So far I ohmed out plug wires, they r fine, ohmed Rotor and cap, ohmed stock coil and msd coil

Reformed injectector leak test, because I had 3 plugs smelling like fuel. None leaked. Removed and inspected wiring harness and ohmes harness out as per.wiring diagram of the harness . It's fine. The connector has corrosion on it, cleaned up .

Broke the egrpipe on accident. But tested egr valve with vacuum pump , good

Next to do is to pull tfi off, and check condition, and.coat with Di electric grease. Reinstall harness, injectors, intake w/ gasket, new plugs and wires
Then test the fuel pressure.

Anything.else I should check for? I'm this.far, also going.to recheck rocker arm bolts for tightness.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also havintg trouble warming.engine up, as far as I see the viscous clutch, or whatever clutch the fan has with the offset fan blades is stuck on all the to.e, I have own temp thermostate in it. What good supermarket fans r they? Stock performance I'm looking for . Or even above.stock. electric is nice.but not ready yet for the.electric swap

So warming it up can be a challenge at times as the fan is.stuck on all the.time
 

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Your plug wires have to be routed properly or they can cause an induction missfire. See miesk5's site broncolinks.com for additional info.
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=872

You have to replace that EGR tube. I believe that will introduce air into the exhaust before the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor will read too much Oxygen, and call for more fuel... leading to rich running engine.

Regarding your fan. If your thermostat is closing as it should, then the engine will warm up regardless of whether the fan is turning all the time or not.
 

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Just on the odd chance check for code: 44 thermactor air injection system "fault" your 86 302EFI should be like mine if it's stock and there's a exhaust cross over tube bolted to the back of the cylinder heads (wonderfull location) with a "check valve" threaded on the top and over time from extreme heat and moisture they rust and burn thru causing a vaccum leak, sucking air changing the EGR air stream from up to down going out the CAT straving the system in affect causing a "miss", loss of power going up/down hills, ignition detonation until the rpms smooth out in stop and go traffic.

The check valve costs $20.00 anywhere BUT you have to remove the C/O tube, put it in a vice grip for leverage because the valve threads are tappered pipe threads, no gaskets are required for reinsallation but rather use bearing grease on each end and the grease will shallak nicley for a good seal, Steve83
tech tip.

As for the EGR tube look up Pollution Control Industry...www.pciinc.com they have them available and IIRC not expensive...otherwise hit the JY and see what you can find there....

Check my video on www.supermotors.net/17406 - ERG Tube with Fittings - May 20 2010 - VID00001.AVI for reference if you need it.

Check the bottom of all spark plug boots to make sure they're not burned thru causing a miss, my #5 & 6 used to do that because IMO, poor OEM exhaust manifold design there, not quite enough clearance BUT stopped when I got the 9mm FMSR wires with improved heat resistance.

Just some thoughts.....


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I routed my plugs correctly about 4 weeks ago. At the same time new fuel filter noticebly difference rpm jumps less and the power increase .

As of now I checked all the plugs visually and ohmed them, they were within spec and.none burned threw.

Have stock system, and downloaded the info on that air system off all data and.how.to check. I will check once I get all back together .

Vacuum was not checked, I will check once all together, would it be a good idea to soak the injectors in soak cleaner ? Or just clean them out. I will be cleaning the I.sector harness connectors out.

I got in the mail today my 2 new California approve cats from magnaflow :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I routed my plugs correctly about 4 weeks ago. At the same time new fuel filter noticebly difference rpm jumps less and the power increase .

As of now I checked all the plugs visually and ohmed them, they were within spec and.none burned threw.

Have stock system, and downloaded the info on that air system off all data and.how.to check. I will check once I get all back together .

Vacuum was not checked, I will check once all together, would it be a good idea to soak the injectors in soak cleaner ? Or just clean them out. I will be cleaning the I.sector harness connectors out.

I got in the mail today my 2 new California approve cats from magnaflow :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update 10-27-11

I replaced the egr pipe to intake, checked egr for functionality. Good, and.cleaned out.

Installed new o ring on injectprs, and installed, installed new upper intake gasket. And Installed upper intake manifold, torqued bolts to spec, installed egr valve to intake and torque to spec. Inspected and reinstallrd that spark plug wires using.Ho firing.order. checked bolts for locks. Good. Then installed pcv and tube and all remaining vacuum hoses, then test drove operating temp.

Vacuum reading as per link provided in post 1 I am scenario 3, has a fluxuation of .5 inches of vacuum. Holding 20 +/- .5 inches of vacuum

When inspecting the injectprs harness, noticed that the pins were corroded, cleaned pins up, then looked at bronco side of the injector harness and 2 pins pushed In,, pushed pins back out, and connected the harness, in the future going to remove that connectors and install a new style weather pack connect for good solid connection

Would it be a good idea to apply Di electric grease to this connector?

Truck feels great now, but going to order the original plugs and saw some msd plug wires that I want. I will order Monday
 

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I would use CRC Electrical spray cleaner for elec. connectors, cleans and "evaporates", done!

For the future when cleaning, R&R injectors take a look at www.fordfuelinjection.com for cleaning and rebuilding tips, it's simple and kits are inexpensive on the internet.....when installing fuel injectors back into the lower intake manifold ports, put a little motor oil on the O rings so the won't "chaff" going in.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i was going to wire my spark plugs to prevent a cross fire

i have 86 firing with batch fire injection,, which fires 4 injectors at a time and got 94 -95 302 firing order

as my understanding the 94-95 302 have sefi injectors, which firing 1 injector at a time. not 4

my question now is how to properly route my plugs?

route them using the 94-95 way, or route them 86-93 way.

as far as i see i would route them as per my firing order?
and also

stock autozone number 1 spark plug cable, 5.5k ohms measures about 16 inches i think

new msd wires 20 inches about, bout 90 ohms
 
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