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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy folks -

I'm going to be swapping out my stock 351 for a better 351 hopefully in January. While its out, I'm wondering what else should be replaced. I'm thinking about any/all bolt on accessories, stock and aftermarket. So far, I've got the basics like water pump and motor mounts. What else should I be thinking about? New starter? New air intake (or will the stock one work just fine for ~325HP)? What sensors should I replace? Can any smog stuff be removed?

I've got headers and new exhaust sitting in boxes in the garage.... should I use bolts or studs for these?

FYI, this is a 1996 Bronco with MAF. I will be utilizing the stock EFI and computer. It's been a while since I've done an engine swap, and I've never done one with EFI, so I'm kind of in uncharted territory. Any advise is appreciated!
 

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Addicted to Junk
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New starter, yes. New air intake ducting, no. That's plenty big for 500HP.

New distributor gear.
Check the ALT and PS pump and gearbox. Replace if necessary. Check the fan clutch and the AC clutch and field coil too. Check the steering shaft, brake proportioning valve, and ABS module while the engine is out.

Leave the smog stuff if its functioning. If not replace the broken parts if its monetarily feasible. Otherwise ditch it. Shouldn't be much, since its MAF.

Consider adding a better cooler for your power steering. It would replace that coiled up tube on front of the engine crossmember. Old transmission coolers work great for this. I would also consider a Saginaw power steering pump swap while your at it.

CLEAN AND PAINT EVERYTHING while the engine is out. I'm talking frame rails, crossmember, brackets, battery tray, etc. Itll look better and keep the rust at bay. It also cleans off easier because its not the bare porous iron or steel surfaces.

I'll also recommend another, more in depth project. Replace your fuel filter with one that is easier to change. You can get hardline to AN fitting adapters and use an AN style canister. They filter better, come off the line easier, and are reusable. I went ahead and ran -6 AN line from the new filter to the pump and carb with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I've actually got two filters, a coarse 100 micron one followed by a fine 10 micron one.
 

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I agree with everything already mentioned. I would say any future upgrades may be easier to install with the engine out. Definitely do the Saginaw upgrade. Why bend over the core support when you can stand in front of the engine while it's on a stand.

If budget allows and the accessories are all old then consider upgrading/replacing the alternator and the steering shaft with a borgsen unit or at least a new rag joint while the engine is out.

Out of habit I always replace the radiator but I also don't have high dollar radiators. I want the entire cooling system to be new so there is no chance of contamination in the new engine. Heater core is a pita the first few times but it's not impossible.

If you plan to reuse your old injectors at least send them out to be cleaned and tested and if needed rebuilt. Or just get new ones if budget allows or performance levels require it.

Never had a stock Ford distributor reworked since I just replaced with msd probillet but I always sent my Chevy hei distributors out to be rebuilt. Just to make sure everything was good to go.

I'm all for studs over bolts for one reason: some bolts can be a pain to get started by hand. Granted studs create another possible problem: lack of room to get the nut started. So really it's the lesser of the two evils for me.

Edit: I'm a firm believer that even the motorcraft sensors you buy at parts store are junk. If you know for a fact that the stock sensors are working try to reuse them. If you have to replace them try to find the OEM parts. Pricey at times but the quality of the sensors from parts stores, including motorcraft, is hit or miss
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Excellent info... keep it coming! I really don't know much about Ford motors as all of my previous work has been in the SBC carb'd world....

I'm planning on going with new injectors and will also put in a new radiator. Too easy to do at the same time, and relatively cheap. I'll also be going with a new disti.

Regarding the Saginaw swap.... are there any threads about it already? I don't want to go overboard and replace everything, but I'm not trying to be cheap and skimp out either. Want to do what makes sense.
 

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There is a member with the complete setup for sale in the classified section here. Pretty straight forward swap. His kits include pump, bracket and lines if I remember correctly. It's basically the stock power steering pump setup from the F250/E250. He just does the work of finding and pulling them for you.
 

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Here's the sag section from Baba Looey's favorites. Let's see how this partial quote thing works.
Steering -Saginaw Swap & Pumps
1-saginaw swap. plug ugly
2-Install Completed!! Saginaw Powersteering Pump Rebuild Not 56K!! jermil01
3-saginaw pumps bossind -With pics of pumps & brackets.
4-Saginaw Pump II by Boss. bossind
5-All info i know about the saginaw swap and the pumps. BadassBronco
6-100% bolt-up saginaw pump Ditch Baby (nascarfreak88) -More part numbers in posts 223 & 226 (Page 12), & step by step info by foxbravo in post 235.
7-Saginaw P/S Reservoir -Remote reservoir source.
8-Saginaw Pump - With OBA... Question? Dave's Bronc 90 gives the part number for a GM remote resevoir sag pump that fits the Ford van bracket in post 11.
Well, it looks like links 1 & 5 are dead after the "upgrade".
 

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Yo Aggie,
Be prepared to replace vacuum lines especially those running behind upper intake to combo tad/tab, etc.
Inspect exhaust manifolds for cracks.
Inspect engine mounts.
on installation, the engine and bell housing must go together without having to use force. If the engine will not pull up to the bell housing, recheck alignment of the torque converter drive hub into the front pump of the transmission. Make certain the pilot hub fits the crankshaft. Crankshaft thrust failures caused by improper alignment are not covered by warranty.
Flywheel alignment flange and mounting
On standard transmissions, recheck the alignment of the clutch plate and pilot bushing, making sure both fit together properly.

Pre-lube the engine using an electric drill with hex or slotted oil pump drive, rotating the oil pump before the engine is started. On engines with chain- or gear-driven oil pumps, turn the engine over with the spark plugs removed until oil pressure is achieved.

Apply oil to the rockers and valve train to prevent gaulding on initial start.

After checking oil and coolant levels, start the engine and run it at a fast idle, checking the oil pressure and coolant temperature. Once running temperature has been reached, make final adjustments on the carburetor and ignition timing, and recheck the coolant level to ensure against air locks.

Do not let the engine idle for a prolonged period.

Stop the engine, check for oil and coolant leaks, readjust valves as needed. Do not re-torque the torque-to-yield bolts. Gasket failures due to improper torque are the responsibility of the installer, not the remanufacturer.

While road testing, de-accelerate rapidly from a moderate speed several times. This increases vacuum and the amount of oil to the pistons and rings.

Allow for a break-in time. Avoid speeds over 50 mph for the first 500 miles. Avoid lugging the engine at all times.

Oil and filter must be changed within the first 500 miles, and at regular intervals thereafter. Some oil consumption for the first 3,000 miles is normal.

Inspect/replace auto trans front pump seal
GL
 

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I'm planning on going with new injectors and will also put in a new radiator. Too easy to do at the same time, and relatively cheap.
+1 on new injectors and definitely a new radiator - even stock, a new radiator is cheap insurance.

Didn’t see hoses mentioned. When pulling your budget together don’t forget things like plugs, wires, coils, belts, etc. Not major expenses, but they do add up.

Good luck!




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...oh and larger gauge battery/starter cables.

Checkout the first few posts in my build thread. It goes into more detail.


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Discussion Starter #11
I'll look into the Saginaw swap. As far as the basics... any particular brands on water pumps, radiators, starters, etc? Just get the basic new parts from the parts house, or are there some things that make sense to get the better units?
 

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To keep it as short as possible...

Ford used the GM Saginaw 'canned ham' PS pumps on econolines at least back through the 80s. You find one with your engine and belt type (Vee or serpentine), take the pump, pulley, brackets, and high pressure line and mount it on your engine.

The factory saginaws are generally better than parts store ones, and can be rebuilt.

There are a bunch of methods to this swap, depending on how far you wanna go. Mine has braided stainless AN line and fittings and a (ex-transmission) cooler from a 96 f350. You can also add a filter. The sag is also better if you want to run hydroboost brakes in the future.
 

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I'll look into the Saginaw swap. As far as the basics... any particular brands on water pumps, radiators, starters, etc? Just get the basic new parts from the parts house, or are there some things that make sense to get the better units?

See Post #8 in my build thread here:
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/orey-gets-stroked-want2bs8eds-1993-bronco-build.506076/post-7227208

...and Post #9 in particular that reviews specific components and why:
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/orey-gets-stroked-want2bs8eds-1993-bronco-build.506076/post-7228396


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if we're just spending your money...gt40 (or better) heads, edelbrock intake.

OEM stuff - you could go to a 130amp alternator & upgrade your power and ground wires.

maybe an upgraded power steering cooler
it's a great time to install any aftermarket gauges you might want.
 

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I've gotta agree with the suggestion to replace the water pump if you aren't buying a long block and maybe the steering box if you are experiencing sloppy steering, but a lot of what has been suggested, while it might be reasonable to replace everything that bolts onto the engine, might not be financially the smartest thing to do. Some of those accessories and components are easy enough to get at after the fact that they probably aren't worth spending the money on to replace all of them. As an example, I had an '83 XLT with a 302 that liked to eat starters. Changing the starter on a SB Ford engine in a vehicle like a Bronco with tons of ground clearance is just not that big a job. I didn't even have to jack the truck up. Just roll under there with wrenches and swap out the starter. AC compressor, PS pump and hoses and the alternator are also relatively easily accessible if you have a step stool and they could be re-used for now if you are budget constrained. Would be nice to have all those new items, but it ain't cheap.
 

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An older thread, asking the same basic info for my '95 351W MAF:
 

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I've gotta agree with the suggestion to replace the water pump if you aren't buying a long block and maybe the steering box if you are experiencing sloppy steering, but a lot of what has been suggested, while it might be reasonable to replace everything that bolts onto the engine, might not be financially the smartest thing to do. Some of those accessories and components are easy enough to get at after the fact that they probably aren't worth spending the money on to replace all of them. As an example, I had an '83 XLT with a 302 that liked to eat starters. Changing the starter on a SB Ford engine in a vehicle like a Bronco with tons of ground clearance is just not that big a job. I didn't even have to jack the truck up. Just roll under there with wrenches and swap out the starter. AC compressor, PS pump and hoses and the alternator are also relatively easily accessible if you have a step stool and they could be re-used for now if you are budget constrained. Would be nice to have all those new items, but it ain't cheap.
I agree about reusable parts. I never replace the AC compressor unless it has problems. It's one of the expensive parts if you factor in the freon evac and recharge and the recommended replacement parts. If your AC works fine don't even disconnect it. Remove compressor from engine and SAFELY hang it to the side using cables or strong wire.

Power steering pump should be a Saginaw swap even if the vehicle is stock. It gets rid of the typical Ford "whine" if nothing else.

As for water pumps I normally use part house pumps but I hear the Edelbrock pump is a good upgrade if you are looking for something a little better. Never used it so I have no first hand experience with it.
 
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