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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

86 with a 351W and C6

So here is my game plan, want to replace the rear main seal. I also bought a deep tranny pan, transgo shift kit (1&2), and a new servo.

Day 1 of my rear main seal project. I removed the crossmember the tranny mounts to, the thin metal shield under the transfer case. Removed the front drive shaft, I have half the rear drive shaft out. I successfully removed the u joint that connects to the rear axel but did not have the right size wrench for the little 12pt bolt to remove the u joint front the transfer case (turns out its a 8mm). Next came the starter was removed, then I attempted to remove the torque converter bolts from the flex plate got 3 of 4.... 4th one is stripped but I ran to auto zone tonight and bought a extractor socket, fingers crossed that works.

I began removing the linkage and only was able to get this far...
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So I took the kick down linkage off, then the neutral safety switch and was hoping the gear selector would just slide off... well it doesn't. ( I don't know if all my terminology is correct so be nice :)). So I need some advice on how to get this bad boy off. Also there is ATF fluid that seems to be leaking out of bolt that holds this whole mechanism together, idk if there is a O or something that needs to be replaced.

I then removed the rear most tranny cooler line, the front most one I have no idea how I'm going to get to it. Im planning on cutting the metal line line and reconnecting it with rubber unless anyone can give me any ideas on how to reach the line nut.

As I digress, at this point i was kinda stuck so I dropped the tranny pan and pulled out the filter and valve body. From the looks of it ( i see colorful springs in the valve body) there is already a shift kit. Now I'm not sure but I took some pics so maybe one of y'all can confirm this for me.
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Next thing I wanted to get a few opinions on is while I have this B out should I just go ahead with the rebuild. I spoke to my father in law who is mechanically inclined and he told me since I'm not having any problems with her slipping that I should just leave it alone. I'm on the fence, my fluid is pretty dark I changed about 3 years ago (granted I probably only put 15K miles on her in that time span) , I found some gunk in the bottom of the tranny pan, and I'm using it to tow a 21ft boat.

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Again she runs and shifts perfectly fine. I recently put a trans temp gauge in and the highest temp I saw was just below 220 and all I was doing was driving around town for about an hour, so that was pretty concerning (there is a B&M tranny cooler installed already). I don't have any temp readings while towing. Between me an you.. and the internet... I kinda want to do the rebuild but I'm hesitant because it may be more then I can handle. I've done a ton of research, watched videos, have the Haynes c6,c4 rebuild manual but I'm still on the fence.

So here are some more pics.. any advice, good, bad, or indifferent is welcome!!

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I know its short notice but I'm getting back under her tomorrow AM so holla at me!!! Thanks
 

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FWIW if I pull mine it will go to the shop for a rebuild. It’s so much work to get it out. That said it often boils down to what cash is available at the time. I’d never try an auto rebuild myself with my modest skills. Seems like a lot of specialty stuff that I could really screw up.

I’d love to firm up the shifts in mine; I’m not a fan of autos to begin with and would like mine to down shift earlier and be tighter overall.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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I will not open an automatic transmission.... period, too much “poop to intercourse up” that’s why I love my manual transmission. If it shifts fine do the filter change and put it back together. Fir the linkage try some liquid wrench or wd40 and a gentle pry bar... DO NOT reef on it shit breaks easy!! I’d guess it’s rusted together at it’s vintage age.
 

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Yo rcirillo,
Here is some info, however I couldn't find the "gear selector" info, will look for it later.
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See more @ C6
 

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Yo rcirillo,

Rod Type Linkage which, from memory, was in your year; 86 & below;

"Separating the shift rod and grommet in a tight space;
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Polyurethane plastic grommets are use to connect the various rods, lever and adjusting stud. Whenever a rod is disconnected from a grommet type connector, the old grommet must be remove and a new one installed. A special tool T67P-7341-A or equivalent is required to install the grommet in the shaft lever and to install the shaft linkage rod into the grommet.

1.To remove the rod end connected to the shift column, place the lower jaw of the tool between the shift lever and the shift rod. If working in limited space use tool T84P-341-A or equivalent.

2.Position the stop pin against the end of the shift rod and force the rod out of the grommet.

3.The grommet is removed from the lever by cutting off the large shoulder of the grommet.

4.Remove the grommet from the lever by pushing it out of the lever.

5.Disconnect the rod at the transmission manual shift lever by removing the attaching nut and remove the linkage.

6.Prior to installing a new grommet, adjust the stop pin if necessary to properly install the grommet. Coat the outside of the grommet with a Multipurpose Long Life lubricant. Then place the grommet on the stop pin and force it into the shift lever hole. Turn the grommet several times to be sure it is properly seated.

7.Re-adjust the stop pin to a length which is sufficient to install the shift rod into the grommet. If the pin height is not adjusted, the shaft rod may be pushed too far through the grommet, causing damage to the grommet retaining lip.

8.With the pin height properly adjusted, position the shift rod on the tool and force the rod into the grommet until the groove in the rod seats on the inner retaining lip of the grommet.

9.Install the shift linkage to the manual shift lever and install the retaining nut. Do not tighten."

Or;
I believe 87 & above Cable type shift linkage

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"1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2.Remove the plastic cable terminal from the shift control lever pivot ball by prying with a flat-bladed tool between the cable plastic terminal and the shift control selector lever and housing.

3.Remove the transmission shift cable from the transmission shift cable bracket by carefully lifting on the locking tab while pulling up on the fitting.

4.From the engine compartment, remove the cable and grommet from the bulkhead.

5.Remove the plastic slide adjuster from the manual lever pivot ball spring with a flat-bladed tool between the side adjuster and manual control lever.

6.Remove the transmission shift cable from the transmission shift cable bracket by carefully lifting on the locking tab while pulling up on the fitting.

To install:

7.From the instrument panel, feed the plastic terminal through the opening in the dash panel to the engine compartment.

8.Press the rubber boot on the transmission shift cable into the dash panel.

9.From the engine compartment, install the transmission shift cable into the transmission shift cable bracket and make sure the locking ears are properly located and seated into the bracket.

10.Place the transmission shift cable on the manual lever pivot ball and press into place.

11.From the passenger compartment, install the cable-to-steering column transmission shift cable bracket onto the transmission shift cable and make sure the locking tab is fully seated and locked into place.

12.Snap the cable plastic terminal to the shift control selector lever pivot ball on the steering column.

13.Properly adjust the cable as necessary. Refer to adjustment procedure in this section.

14.Remove the cable lock tab and replace the with a new lock tab.

15.Road test the vehicle and check for proper transmission operation."

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10.Adjust the shift linkage as described in this section.

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C6 shift linkage adjustment points
"1.With the engine stopped, place the transmission selector lever at the steering column in the D position for the C6 or the D overdrive position for the AOD and E4OD, and hold the lever against the stop by hanging an 8 lb. weight from the lever handle.
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2.Loosen the shift rod adjusting nut at the transmission lever.

3.Shift the manual lever at the transmission to the D position, two detents from the rear. On the F-150 with 4WD and Bronco, move the bell crank lever.

4.With the selector lever and transmission manual lever in the D or D overdrive position, tighten the adjusting nut to 12-18 ft. lbs. (16-24 Nm). Do not allow the rod or shift lever to move while tightening the nut. Remove the weight.

5.Check the operation of the shift linkage

1.With the engine stopped, place the transmission selector lever at the steering column in the D position for the C6 or the D overdrive position for the AODE-W, 4R70W and E4OD.

2.Hang a 3 lb. (1.4 kg) weight on the end of the shift lever.

3.Pry the end of the shift cable from the transmission control lever ball stud.

4.Unlock the adjuster body, release the lock tab on the top side of the cable by pushing down on the 2 tangs.

5.Check to be sure the cable moves freely without binding.

6.Move the lever on the transmission all the way rearward and then 3 detent positions forward.

7.Holding the cable end fitting, push the cable rearward until the end fitting lines up with the manual control lever ball stud.

8.Push up on the lock tab to lock the adjuster body in the correctly adjusted position. Be sure the locator tab is properly seated in the bracket.

9.Make certain the shift cable is clipped to the floor pan at the white cable mark and the cable is routed into the tunnel.

10.Adjust the shift indicator pointer while the transmission is still in the overdrive position.

11.Remove the weight and check the control lever in all shift positions.

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Detent (Downshift) Linkage for CARBED ENGINES (leaving this for posterity)

1.Move the carburetor throttle linkage to the wide open position.

2.Insert a 0.060 in. thick spacer between the throttle lever and the kickdown adjusting screw.

3.Rotate the transmission kickdown lever until the lever engages the transmission internal stop. Do not use the kickdown rod to turn the transmission lever.

4.Turn the adjusting screw until it contacts the 0.060 in. spacer.

5.Remove the spacer."
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Day 2 in the books.

Miesk5- thanks for the info I ended up having to break apart that nylon bushing to get the shift linkage off.

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So I got the tranny dropped. I used a bolt extractor to remove the torque converter bolt I stripped and it worked great! I removed the rear main seal with a seal puller I got for summer which also worked great. I installed my new seal and while cleaning up I noticed that the small metal rubber band like faster that sat in the channel of the seal had fallen out before I put the seal in :mad:. SOOOOI removed the seal and have to get another one.

Still to do... Servo, shift kit, vacuum modulator, tranny pump seal and gaskets, and some clean up and paint.

Thanks for the comments and advice... I'm sure ill need some more help when I try and put this all back together.

OHHH and the last pic I posted of the small clip looking things and jacked up springs, I found those in the transmission inside the bell housing behind the torque converter. Kinda concerning, any thoughts?
 

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Yo r,
YW!

Consider a Rear main sleeve. pic by dash_cam @

Due to technical and eye vision issues, I have to limit lookin for thise c clips, spring etc,
So here are:


See spring at bottom left corner if that's the location you described.

Shift Linkage Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 88 with nomenclature

Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy)

For posterity; Just found this on my old pc;
"... 89 C6 NSS It probably took me a total of 5 minutes to change this part. As you can see in the pic it has two bolts holding it on and one nut holding on the downshift lever. the hardest part is the downshift lever has to be immobilized while you loosen the nut. You can do this with a screwdriver like me or the book says to use a guage rod or something. You can get to it on the drivers side of the tranny" by dash_cam
 

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Discussion Starter #10
so possibly from the servo? guess well see.. ill put some more pics up after am able to work on her next.
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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If it were me, I would have seperated the transfer case from the tranny first; it will make your life easier, especially on the re-install. Also, not sure on the mileage, but I would put a Speddy-Sleeve on the crank. The old seal tends to cut a groove in the crank and the new seal won't seal properly and you will still end up with a leak.
While you have it out, find a reputable builder and have him go through your C6 (looks like you may already have a problem with it) and bring it all up to date; you're halfway there now.
Just my $0.02
Good luck.
 
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