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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #641
Got a lot done on the old mud truck:
1. Installed Ultima Yellow Top Battery.
2. Repaired all battery cables with new heat shrink and added protection wire loom on areas that were being cut by the firewall, sheet metal, etc.
3. Installed new fuel tank breather, hose, and fittings.
4. Took tranny cooler apart and lubed up the fan as it was making a horrific sound.
5. Master kill switch was broke off but in the on position, so I replaced that switch. Turned the power on and everything works. Even identified the ignitions wire, water pump wire, coolant fan wire, and tach wire.
6. Ordered new water temperature fitting for autometer mechanical temperature gauge and installed.
7. Got a new air cleaner from Summit and installed. I like it.
8. Went to the parts store for a plug for the fuel regulator and reducer to 3/8" hose barb and installed.
9. Front brake lines had been cut off and the line was welded closed but was leaking. Found brake line plug on the internet, got it, and installed.
10. Removed front brake calipers and rotors since they are not required to mud race (Only have to have brakes on 2 axles so the back brakes meet that requirement).
11. Cut out the front of the rotors as I needed that 1/4" or so for the wheel spacing.
12. Took the front right tire to get repaired as the bead was leaking. Tire would go completely flat in 2 days. Glad that is fixed.
13. Siliconed the water pump and motor plate together and installed all new grade 8 bolts to hold it together.

Here is the finished motor minus the power steering setup. Going to work on that soon.




Time for the hard stuff:
1. Get the transmission under the truck and onto the jack.

2. Got the old bronco C6 bolted up, torque converter installed, B&M shifter linkage adjusted, and tranny cooler lines installed.

3. Now onto the motor. The goal was to stab it all in one piece.

4. Most of my trouble was hacking away at the billet aluminum motor plate to clear the power steering gear or the frame. Took several iterations to get it figured out. Then came the point where the boom of the picker was too short so I cut a piece of metal and slide under the header and set the engine down on the frame then pulled the picker out and then made a redneck mod to get the extra foot I needed. Worked out well.


5. Next, I got all of the bell housing bolts installed. Then I had to undo one because I forgot about the tranny dipstick tube LOL! Plus, I installed the trans access cover plate and one of the torque converter bolts while I was under there.
6. Installed the angle iron and drilled out the motor plate on the passenger side and installed bolts. Still have to do the drivers side and then weld it all in place.

Overall, wasn't too bad as I did all of this without any help at all. Passenger header just barely clears, but she fits all in one go so mission accomplished.
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #643
The big block I pulled out of it had a motor plate so I decided to do the same! It serves as the motor mount directly to the frame! As you can see, I was able to install the engine headers and all! Puts less stress on the block and puts the torque to the driveshaft better!
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #646
No other rubber engine mounts! The motor is solid to the aluminum plate to frame! Yes, has rubber in the transfer case mounts!
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #647
Got the driver's side motor mount done. Had to go to the Iron shop and get some 3" x 1/4" angle. Worked well and was able to notch for the power steering. Just need a volunteer with a welder that can weld.


Couldn't wait to drop the carb and air cleaner on top of the intake. I like the looks of it. Put the front back together and dropped the radiator in to test fit the hoses. The return is too short and the suction is too long. Should be easy fixes here. Also, the throttle cable is too long. No issues with the oil pressure or water temp connections.





Stopped at the parts store and ordered a new power steering high pressure hose and rented the tool to remove the power steering pulley. So next I'm onto the power steering setup. Going to have to find a shorter serpentine belt for sure.
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #648
Little John Woke Up

I rocked it this weekend. Little John is awake and annoying the neighborhood. Only issue during start was the existing fuel pump had a leak.

Only 3 things left to do and they all involve welding:
1. Weld the motor mounts to the frame.
2. Cut and Shorten the throttle rod and weld back together.
3. Cut out racing seat, lower, and weld back in.

Can't get to crazy with it until the mounts are solidly welded, but here is how to start it up.
 

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Resident Nice Guy
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2,309 Posts
Like powering up a jet, that would be a ton of fun to do every time I went for a drive. I've just got a boring key and manual choke.

After watching the vid, I may add some dummy switches just to add some flair.
 
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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #651
Truck was setup this way when I bought it. This is not a daily driver and it's pretty straight forward. Doesn't have an alternator so want to limit accessories until needed.

1. Rear disconnect is required for safety
2. Inside kill switch within reach while strapped in. I have two:
2a. Master kill on the shifter
2b. White knob is ignition
3. Fuel Pump
4. Starter Button

Others I didn't use:
5. Radiator Fans
6. Trans Cooler Fan
7. Water Pump

Since this is a mud bog truck, I will be moving the coil inside the cab after I receive the long coil wire I ordered.
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #653
Sounds good. What is the reason you don't run an alt?
It only needs to run long enough to warm up and make a 200' pass thru the mud pit then it goes back on a charger waiting on the next pass! Plus, the engine doesn't have to turn the alt!

Mud Race rules also say only 3 passes can be made at an event!
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #654
Got a good referral from work on a mobile welder. He came over after work yesterday and he took care of all my welding/fabrication needs.

Motor Plate Mounts Secured to Frame:



Throttle Rod Shortened to Fit:


Seat Lowered 2":


Welded up the Cracked Traction Bar:



Installed the Front Driveshaft Hoop:


Hope to load it on a trailer this weekend and take it out to a remote field and shift it out and lay a few runs down. I need to set the rev limiter and shift light first though.

I should get the 42" coil wire this Thursday and I will reposition the coil inside the cab. Going to search for a water/mud resistant air pre-cleaner and order tonight.
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #655
I'm completely done with the Mud Bog Truck and will soon get after the Bronco rear disc brake conversion kit and check on the rearend/axle situation. Probably going to have the torque converter modified for lower stall. Also, got a leaking power steer pressure hose at the oring side of the pump. Think I'm just going to make a custom AN hose and do away with the current connection which has always leaked. I've tried larger O-rings which works for a bit. Last, going to upsize the fuel pump supply line to 1/2".

Here is the final product result of the Mud Bog Truck. Bought a pre-cleaner filter, moved the coil inside the cab, completely sealed up the firewall, fenders, and cab. Also, got tired of the transfer case rear output seal leaking all over the place so I changed that out.






First race is May 6th. I'll post a video of the pass when I get back!
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #656
STARTED BACK ON THE BRONCO

Up on Blocks and Ready to remove the drum brakes and pull the axles


Okay Axle Guys, Take a look and let me know if its BAD.
Passenger Rear Race was stuck inside the tube. Was a PITA to get out. Also, has some black discoloration.

Splines didn't look to bad. There was some chipping and some sign of a little stress.

Passenger Side

Driver Side


Upgrade the Power Steering Pressure Hose
Aeroquip High Pressure TFE Hose and Fittings
Aeroquip FBC0600 -6 AN TFE Braided High Pressure Hose, 11/32 Inch ID

Going with this 6AN Banjo fitting on the pump side.


Bronco Forum post indicates this is the fitting I need for the gearbox.
Earls 991946ERL -6 AN Male to 1/2-20 Inch Male Adapter, Blue

Out with the old hose. That clunky block and oring just ain't working for me. Leaving spots on my shop floor.


Ready to make up the new power steer hose assembly when the parts arrive next week.


GOING TO PULL THE REAREND FOR INSPECTION TOMORROW AS WELL.
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #657
Pretty sure the passenger side bearing is shot as I can slide the bearing about a 1/4" by hand back and forward on the shaft when this should be pressed on. This bearing says Made in Japan. The driver side bearing is made in the USA but I believe the bearing was installed backwards on the shaft.


I got the rear end cracked open and draining. I will pull it all the way out tomorrow and inspect. Turning it by hand is nice and smooth so I'm thinking no issues other than the pinion gasket is leaking.

I think that since I am this far into it, I'm just going to go ahead and go with a new 35 spline nodular case setup with new axles, bearings, and seals.
 

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VOTED FOTM SEPTEMBER 2014
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442 Posts
Discussion Starter #659
Got the stock rear end out. Other than the pinion seal and pinion gasket leaking a little I can't see anything wrong with this unit. Doesn't matter though, I ordered a Quick Performance Yukon Nodular case, 35 spline, 4.11 motive gears, Yukon Locker, 1350 yoke, and lube locker gasket for $1,280 delivered in 2 weeks. Petty sure all my issues were caused by the axle bearings.



I talked to Dutchman Axles today. They are investigating if I can use their new Super Set 20 Taper Axle Bearings with my TSM MFG 2500 Rear Disc Brake Kit.


Disposed of the gear oil and drum brake parts and cleaned up some to get ready for the next part.


It has been awhile since I have pulled these parts out of the box.


Had to start mocking everything up even though I can't lock anything in place until I get the new rear end and axles. Here is the spacer, retainer, and caliper bracket mocked up.


I was able to mock up the caliper and rotor as well without an axle in there.


Looking at the braided hose attachment and possible places to put it so I can modify the hard line.


I am able to retain the stock e-brake cables using this cut to fit spacer.


First step on instruction sheet is to enlarge the hole. Got that done with my air tool.


Next Step is to remove the spring from the cable end.


My adjustment for the e-brake was maxed out. Using this cut to fit space is going to allow me to reset the adjuster.
Before

After


Made up the Aeroquip TFE braided hose for the power steering pump. This stuff is super easy to make up and 3000 psi rated. Still waiting on the banjo fitting.
 
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