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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys i have a 95 Bronco with 302 and E40D trans, Its acting really strange ill drive for an hour or so and its fine up till then, then it feels like when i stop at a stop sign or light when i go to take off its like stuck in a higher gear, motor really bogs down then it will move slowly then take off? Also some times when i go to back up it wont go ? then sometimes i drive it it shifts fine and no problems it has over 144,000 miles on it, I'm sure its over do for a new or rebuilt trans any ideas would greatly be appercated.
 

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Get it scanned for Codes at a Parts Place.. for Free; post any Codes found here
or DIY
SELF TEST & DTCs, COMPREHENSIVE by Steve83

You should get a 3 digit code if any are found incl the good 111 which is System pass - meaning no codes found.

Times that the filter/fluid has been changed incl all serv on the tranny?
Is fluid level ok and not burnt?
any leaks?

GL!
 

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i had this problem except for reverse, mine was fine...i sent my truck in to get a recall fixed im pretty sure it was a speed sensor not sure if it was the TPS but after that its been much better. and also disconnectiing the battery could cause wacky things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have to pull the codes and have no idea on fluid change or service i was told when i bought it the trans was rebuilt but not sure and the guy was old and was moving out of area. Fluid smells a little burnt to.By the way thanks.
 

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try again; you should have 3 digit codes my man...

2 Digit to 3 Digit "...Ford went from two-digit to three-digit EEC IV Self-Test codes in 1991 to service the increasing number of service codes required to support various government On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) regulations. The phase-in from two-digit to three-digit codes started in the 1991 model year.

for others...1996 Broncos have OBD II that has 3-4 numbers beginning with a Letter; usually a P..."
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok ill try again kind of hard counting all the flashes, and then figuring out the numbers? The haynes manual shows a little different method of getting them, i used one from on here with grounding the STI to ground. But may not of counted flashes right. I will retry thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok got it done codes are KOEO, 536, 636 /C C, 111 /KOER, 225, 632. im not sure why with engine off i am getting code brake on/ off circuit failure not activated during KOER test ? Do you guys know what TOT is ? Yeaterday i may have been to medicated went alot better today.
 

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Sounds like you're low on fluid and/or overheating. I'd change the fluid first if you don't know when it was changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok guys i reset all codes drove it around and as soon as it heated up started acting like it was locked up punched throttle to the floor and just bogged down? got it home parked in front of garage and no reverse put it in nuetral and pulled it with my duramax and it acted like it was stuck in gear dragged it out of the way. Also tried giong foward and was just bogging down? will pull codes again tommorrow ? Any ideas or time to shoot it ???
 

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yo
Haven't we yakked about this in another Bronco Forum this week?
If so; here is what I posted in reply to the DTCs you Posted over there;
----
& over there you wrote that the fluid aroma was ok; you wrote; "...Fluid is full smells ok..."
So, lets see a pic or take a sample somewhere for an opinion or 3..
----
Wait on that filter check for now
536 - Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test or shorted to ground (ignore for now)636 - TOT - Transmission Oil Temperature sensor voltage out of self test range.


DTC 636 Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) higher or lower than expected; Can be caused by a bad connector or harness (an open circuit, or short to Ground / Batt), or the transmission was overheated.
-

225 - Knock Sensor (KS) signal not sensed during dynamic response test (ignore if not pinging) (ignore for now)

DTC 632, Overdrive cancel switch did not change state during KOER; is possibly the result of the test being done incorrectly. When you do a KOER test, you need to cycle the switch on and off, if you did, Possible Causes:
Switch is damaged.
Shorted harness.
Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Open harness or fuse.

Check the TPS;
See my site and go to Electrical then Sensors..look for the testing Links..

Transmission Oil Temperature sensor TOT Sensor; this is from a pal at Ford;
"...Once you remove the pan locate the sensor in the valve body and remove the electrical connector very carefully. The sensor is about the size of a pen cap. To remove the sensor carefully unlock the stop tab and twist it, pull down to remove it. It comes out before a full quarter turn is made. Put it back in the reverse order. When you get the sensor to come out be prepared to catch the trans fluid that follows behind it, you will get less than a quart out of it..."
Solenoid Pack Connector Pin-Out Diagram
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
See Pins 7 & 8

It is located in da Pack between Converter Clutch Control (CCC) Solenoid & the Coast Clutch Solenoid

Transmission Oil Temperature sensor TOT Sensor Location Diagram; see page 3, Step 3
& Solenoid Locations in Valve Body; see page 4
Source: by artcarr.com

Transmission Oil Temperature sensor TOT Sensor Info in Solenoid Wiring Diagrams in a 96 Bronco & F 150
by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Bottom right of da diagram....

Try the connections first. They are usually the root of the problem.
Bottom line is - "Fluid smells a little burnt to..." suspect that is the DTC 636 reason
EDIT; adding:
E4OD Transmission Oil Temperature Sensor (TOT) Overview & Wiring Diagram; "...The PCM monitors the voltage drop across a temperature sensitive thermistor. The PCM uses this information to determine transmission fluid temperature for adjustment of shift schedules & torque converter engagement schedules when the fluid is cold. Also used to adjust EPC pressure shift & torque converter schedules for temperature..."
 

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The solenoid pigtail is on the passenger side of the Bronco behind a small heat sheild that protects it from the exhaust heat. Remove that shield, carefuly unplug the pigtail from the trans (solenoid pack) and inspect it. Make sure the wires arent exposed.

I looked at mine at 160k and it had long before that, succembed to the heat. ALL of the wires in that pigtail were exposed and touching eachother. I bought a new one, spliced it in and wrapped it in heat resistant material to avoid this issue again.
 
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