[Breezeway2021]

Alright fellas hopefully this is my last thread for this issue. I created others for this same issue but the potential culprits in question for those threads have been ruled out and instead of dragging it on even more I just started another for ease of access. Hopefully that’s okay...

Okay so I have a stalling issue with my 95 E4od. The truck has been essentially unused for over 4yrs because of this. I have come to realize I had multiple issues I’m slowly getting them resolved. Also noteworthy that because it has been unused for so long some of these have probably occurred just recently while trying to make some more progress on it...

First was a new ecm. Got a reman and it seems to be doing just fine. Old one was toast. Next I replaced ICM and PIP after the new ecm gave code 211. Got it re-timed to 12*btc Now we’re running again and back to problem solving.

I still have a stalling condition once the truck warms up. Torque converter is locking up for unknown reason. I have ruled out the ecm both by replacing it and also by cutting the TCC line P/Y. Pin 53. It still stalls. It will do fine in all gears when cold. When it gets warm so far it seems to be okay with D most of the time. I’ve had it come and go on me. R will outright stall it and 1 and 2 will bog it down bad until I shift out of it. P and N are normal.

I tested the harness for voltage being sent by pcm thru pin 53 just a bit ago. It measured 1.8+/-v in all gears so I believe that is passing. Cut the line like I said and it’s still locking the TC. Which it should not be if I understand correctly. I noticed that the pan and transmission body were unusually warm/borderline hot and all i had done is yard driving and idling for like maybe 30 min. That didn’t seem right...

Any suggestions on how to proceed are much welcomed. Should I look at a new solenoid pack or am I misunderstanding something by coming to this diagnosis?

Thanks! -Breeze

 

[Narve]

Check the solenoid pack in the trans. Sounds like it has shorted internally. There is a pin out that shows the resistance that should be present between pins.

It will need to be disconnected from the ECM. Either find the wiring connection or go in through the access panel on the trans tunnel.

 

[klh95bronco]

I would also look for vacuum leaks. I had a F-100 that did that exact same thing when I put it in gear. Turned out I had a major vacuum leak under the carburetor.

 

[Breezeway2021]

I probed the solenoid pack before I changed the ecm. It’s been probably close to 8mo ago so don’t remember exactly but I believe it seemed fine on the meter. But I will check it again for sure next time I work on it.

I can see how a vacuum leak would cause that on a C6 since they are vacuum operated. But I don’t believe that’s my issue here. I have replaced all vacuum lines, plus IAC valve, TPS, pulled throttle body and intake mani and cleaned them... just to name a few things. I’ll check my bolts again but it seems to run too good to have a bad vacuum leak plus AC is still working normally.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Breezeway2021,
Any new Diagnostic Trouble Codes?
For no Codes;
Table 4;

For both tables
Idle Air Flow;

Vacuum:
See See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 includes jowens1126 HVAC Control Panel info @ Help with dtc codes and idle
Tip :
When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost.

Quick Test is the Diagnostic Trouble Code Test

EGR;

 

[Breezeway2021]

thanks miesk. ill look over that. no sir, no new DTCs... but i didnt drive it out of 1st gear yesterday (yard driving) so it may not have had a chance to get any. ill try to drive it more next chance i can to see if any come up. my memory is failing me, what is the ATF capacity in an E4OD with factory cooler in the radiator? could be over full and malfunctioning when it gets warm? ive dropped the pan a few times to check the filter and ive only just put back in the fluid i drained out. its never looked bad so i reused to save some cash. i plan to check my lines to see if theyre clogged or restricted and ill check my solenoid pack as well. i dont remember if ive looked at my egr valve. IAC has been replaced. i really doubt ive got vacuum leaks but it is possible... its just the truck idles and revs perfectly in park and neutral so its puzzling. I'll redo the procedure for testing the solenoid pack... if i can find it.

 

[Breezeway2021]

Went back and read my old thread for what tests I had run previously and stuff. I realized the figures I gave for voltage through P/Y wire from pin 53 in the original post for this thread were not acquired in the same way I did them before. I had pos probe from dvom on P/Y line and neg probe I put on a the frame rail for ground. I should have had it on the vehicle pwr line in the same solenoid pack wire harness end. I also was reminded that I had not tested the reactance of my solenoids previously. So I’ll definitely do that soon.

 

[Breezeway2021]

Had a busy week so haven’t done anything with the bronco but I did have an interesting conversation about it today.

Got the number of a local guy that builds obs diesels and talked to him about buyin bits and pieces for our three different obs fords.

My bronco’s transmission (the e4od and focus of this thread) has been rebuilt in I think 2019 buy a shop about 45min next town over. Turns out the guy I talked to today about truck parts has dealt with him before and it wasn’t good. He took an old ford auto trans to him (the predecessor to the C6) that only had park and neutral. He took it to him like 6 times and finally gave up. Took it elsewhere and they found he had left parts out and had it all messed up. So point is he said I wouldn’t recommend him lol.

So chances are my transmission is jacked up. I still will check my solenoid pack but the fella said he has an small block e4od from a 96 or 7 f250 that he would sell with maybe 85k miles on it. It has a seized starter bolt but otherwise there was nothing wrong with it when he pulled it.

Haven’t looked at it yet but anybody know if a 96/7 would swap out with my 95?

 

[67galax]

I had asked if a 96 would work in my 91 in this thread. Yours being a 95, I’d guess the answer is ‘maybe’. I know, not much help. But I think you’d have a matching harness for the solenoids that I think changed in 94.
Newer E4OD to replace Older E4OD in Bronco

 

[Breezeway2021]

I read the thread. Yeah without seeing it it’s one of those ‘maybe’ situations. My main wonder is if anything change with the intro of OBD2. Not sure if the truck it came from was obd1 or 2, seems like the 96/7 f250s and 350s were questionable. My brother has a 97 350 still square body with an obd2 diagnostic plug under the dash but obd1 operating system. It’s odd.

 

[rla2005]

Electrically there is no difference between a 1995 model year and a 1996/97 E4OD used on these OBS trucks. There were a few small internal mechanical improvements, but that is a good thing. Assuming that 1996/97 is a 4wd version it will be a plug-n-play.

 

[Breezeway2021]

Well cool. It was a 4x4 truck. I’ll let him know I’m interested.

Wasn’t aware there was a difference in 2x4 and 4x4 e4ods. What’s different about them?

 

[miesk5]

Yo Breezeway2021,
YW!
Following from Ford in 1995 Bronco Manual:

●
Following from Ford in 1996 Bronco EVTM:

●
●95 E4OD Solenoid Pack Test @ E4od solenoid pack testing

Good Fortune!

 

[67galax]

Wasn’t aware there was a difference in 2x4 and 4x4 e4ods. What’s different about them?

2wd just have a plain tailshaft headed for the rear axle, 4WD have a flange to bolt on a transfer case.

 

[Breezeway2021]

Ah. Makes sense.

 

[Breezeway2021]

i havent talked with the local guy again yet about that e4od hes got. its been a pretty busy week for me. but when i chatted with him before he mentioned it sounded like i was loosing fluid pressure.

does that sound like an assumption that holds any water? (or should i say ATF haha), after he said that i did recall that i found a valve body bolt loose and backed out one time i dropped the pan to check the filter. he said the transmission guy i used was not the best so maybe he didnt torque stuff down etc... maybe ill get lucky and not have any missing parts and just need stuff tightend up.

just some thoughts until i get some more lookin done on it. any comments?

 

[Breezeway2021]

Just pulled my solenoid pack and check the resistance on them.

Shift 1, 2, Torque converter and coast clutch all have a target range of 20-30 ohms
Mine read all at around 22.2 ohms, check

EPC solenoid calls for 4.0-6.5 ohms
Mine read nothing...

My meter should have been able to register that low considering it read in the 10 and less range when touching the two probes together by themselves... so in that case it appears I have a bad pressure control solenoid. Is it possible that its behind the TC lockup?

What do some of you experts think of this? I’m tired of throwing parts at this so I’m hoping for some pretty solid opinions/facts before I do anything else...

edit I checked them again an hour later to double check, the 22.2 readings all dropped to about 20.9. Battery is pretty old in my meter so I’ll replace it and check again in case it’s causing weak readings.

 

[Breezeway2021]

Still waiting to hear back from the guy in my area with a transmission.

Decided to fix my speedo wobble to see if it has had any effect on my issues. I serviced the rear diff and replaced the tone ring. VSS sensor I replaced last year sometime. I also did a abs module bypass since it’s got issues too (I had codes for vss issues and a ground fault). Unless I get some input before I do it, I guess I’ll just put my solenoid pack back in, check valve body bolts and button it back up. If I can get this other transmission I don’t really want to spend the money on a new solenoid pack.

We’ll see if fixing my vss issues will make any difference.

 

[Breezeway2021]

Spent a few hrs on the bronco tonight. Here’s what I did:
Replaced battery in multimeter and rechecked solenoid pack resistance. About the same but realized I was probing the wrong pins for the epc solenoid. A couple diagrams I used differed in labeling of the pins... it measured 5.5 ohms.

Checked valve body bolts, reinstalled solenoid pack, and buttoned it all up and refilled. Shifted through al gears multiple times. Did stall in R once but not every time.

Yard drove and seemed good then drove about a mile test down the road and back.

With the abs system bypassed and new tone ring my speedo no longer wobbles! And honestly the truck drove great! Probably the best it has ever since I’ve had it. Accelerated and shifted beautifully. Got back home and played with the gears more after it warmed up. It’s still stalling in R and 1 but not consistently. I’m thinking I need to recheck my harness for shorts. Also got a brief CEL for the O2 sensor (172- running lean I believe) so I’ll see if I can clean it too. Perhaps my transmission is fine after all...

 

[Breezeway2021]

Drove the bronco to work this morning. It’s cool and over cast this week with about 50/55 degree mornings lately, so naturally the truck wont be very peppy until it warms up. Drove okay just needs brake work. But I feel like the more I’m working with it the more sluggish it feels when cold. Moved it around the yard last night and a couple times reverse took an abnormal amount of time to engage. Maybe 5 seconds. I will go over my harness again but after looking into delay reverse engagement posts and all my trouble seems to be after it warms up and my solenoids check out I’m feeling like I’ve got a bad rebuild. When I got to work i tried to throw it in R to see what it would do and it stalled immediately. Oh also my speedo still wobbles it just doesn’t start till about 60mph now instead of 40/45 so I’ll try the PSOM bypass and see if it changes anything.

I’ll try not to post again until I have something significant to share lol. Any input is welcome.