E4OD Fun

Yo Dude,
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is the LED with an overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The transmission control switch is a momentary contact switch. When the switch is pressed, a signal is sent to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650). The powertrain control module then energizes the transmission control indicator lamp and the coast clutch solenoid, applying the coast clutch to provide engine braking and cancels fourth gear operation; does it cause the lamp to glow?
The TCIL indicates:
overdrive cancel mode activated (lamp on), The PCM will turn on the TCIL to indicate that the overdrive cancel mode has been selected.
Or electronic pressure control circuit shorted or monitored sensor failure (lamp flashing).


Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader
EEC AKA PCM, computer stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.
The EEC will tell you what it found out by testing your sensors, and also any stored information it saved from anything that went wrong during the last 40 trips.
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.
Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO & KOER.
A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.
BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS
Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.
Or ask local parts stores, especially mom and pop owned if they will scan it for you.
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Shift Concerns: Feel — Harsh (Some/All)

Finally got her home this weekend (PO was waiting on a duplicate title) - feels good!

I picked up an Innova 3145, which was very dusty but actually in-store at the local AutoZone. Also grabbed the extension cable for it from Amazon for $11, which I'd recommend to anyone who has one of these. Makes it much easier to deal with when you aren't tied to the EEC-IV connector under the hood. Current codes are 558 and 332 - both EGR related and there was an EGR valve laying on the back seat when I bought the truck, so I'll have to dig more into that later.

First order of business was to drop the pan and check out the condition of the trans. I forgot what a mess it is to do this without a drain plug - glad I picked up a 4R100 pan to swap with at the same time. Trans filter was laying in the pan when I dropped it, which I took as a good indicator of what was going on. I fished out the old filter seal and popped in a new filter, 4R100 pan and reusable gasket, and refilled with Valvoline MaxLife ATF, which claims to be Dex/Merc compatible, along with nearly everything else under the sun. I remain skeptical and open to suggestions for an appropriate ATF for this old girl.

Took her out for a test drive and.....same symptoms - at first. Reverse engaged fine and always has. Shifting to drive neutraled out almost immediately. BUT - manual shifting to 1st felt good, so I took it down the road. Manual shift to 2nd was OK under light throttle but did slip under harder acceleration and on hills. Once I got into D/OD, things felt fine as well.

I also seem to have an intermittent ABS light. I picked up a VSS for the rear diff and will swap that at some point in the next few days.

Initial thoughts are that I likely have a bad MLPS. I'm going to unplug that and take her out again tonight to see what difference it makes. I do have a new MLPS to install but am not especially looking forward to replacing the connector under the truck. I'll likely pull the passenger seat and trans tunnel cover as I saw in a post on here in order to repin from the interior. Failing that..I don't know. Open to suggestions. Pic of the patient below!

Yo Dude,
DTC 558: CHECK RESISTANCE OF EVR SOLENOID indicates a failure in the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid circuit/Damaged EVR solenoid; Open harness, Shorted harness, Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM). ;
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 at the breakout box and EVR circuit at the EVR solenoid vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
No - SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components.RERUN Quick Test.
Yes - GO to DN13.
DN13 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER OR GROUND. Key off. EVR solenoid disconnected.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
No - SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is repeated, REPLACE EVR solenoid.
Yes -REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT EVR solenoid. RERUN Quick Test.."
Source: by Ford via me at FSB

As I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; for instance - Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box. Substiture EEC for :breakout box"
EEC Connector Pin Diagram

Source: by Ryan M

EEC Connector Pin LEGEND @ Ford Fuel Injection
Source: by Ryan M
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DTC 332 & Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed EGR valve diaphragm leaks EVR solenoid sticking closed Loss of vacuum to or from EVR Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits ..."
Source: by latechsho at Super High Output

Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."
Source: by SigEpBlue

EVR TESTING; "....check the filter on the solenoid. If this is clogged it will inhibit the venting of the solenoid; "...EVR Solenoids should be 20 to 70 ohms (100 to 135 ohms for 7.5L engines). A functional test can be performed on most applications by using a Scan Tool. Enter the Output State check and cycle the accelerator pedal. This will turn all the solenoids on and off. Using a DVOM monitor the voltage at the EGR solenoid(s). They should toggle from a high voltage to a low voltage. Typically this is stated in the manuals and scan tools as above 10.5 volts to below 2 volts. If the voltage does not toggle make sure that you have system voltage on the power side of the connector. If system voltage is present and the voltage does not cycle to the low side check the connector and wiring to the PCM. If the wiring and connector are okay the problem may be in the pin at the PCM or the driver in the computer itself..." by Tomco.
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EVP Testing & Replacement @
EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor Testing & Replacement by Seattle FSB
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Dex/Merc is used in pur E40D NOW in E4ODs in notable members:
@jowens1126
@Handy_andy_cv64
@BigBlue1993
Me
Etc