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Discussion Starter #1
It appears there are at least a few people thinking about installing a Klune-V into their late model Bronco and I had another thread with what I went through there... After starting my SAS, I decided that the E4OD-Klune-1356 combo was just too long, my rear driveshaft was gonna be at a pretty steep angle (I have a 10.25 rear which doesn't help). So, I got a NP-205 which is shorter than the 13-56 and the front drive output is about 3" further inboard which happens to be just what I need for my SAS...

This thread is just to show some of the issues with the 205, my twin-stick conversion, and I'll take some side-by-side pics when I have both transfer cases out of the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's the best "before" shot I have of the 205... It's already pretty well torn down at this point. For a great write-up on the teardown/rebuild procedure, go here: Project Double Agent

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The biggest issue I came up against in the teardown was this big hole in the rear output assembly:
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Turns out this is where the speedometer sensor plugs in on a 79 Bronco. Since my VSS plugs into the rear end (I know someone's gonna quote that line), I had to fill this hole in the 205... I machined an aluminum plug, then used a piece of flat steel bar to hold it down... I used the existing 1/4" threaded hole to hold down the steel (I guess this is how the original speedo sensor screws down)

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That's it for now, I got all the internals cleaned up, now I'm gonna dunk the case because its basically covered with crap. I'm also waiting for my new seals/gasket kit from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard and my twin-stick / shift rails from Off-Road Design...
 

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hopefully you dont mind me butting in on your thread, but here are some pics from another thread (the atlas v doublers thread I started) comparing the two cases

took some measurements today, since I have a bw and 205 sitting in the garage.

First a few pics



the difference is right about 5 inches


big size difference






Anyway, some measurements I took from front face (mounting surface of case) to the end of the output shaft on front and rear of each

BW Front is -3 3/4"
bw rear is - 17 1/4"

205 front is + 3" (meaning, its forward of the mounting surface by 3")
205 rear is - 11 3/4

Now again, this is to the end of the threads on the ouput shafts. I could not find my 205 yokes to compare, but the BW yokes add approx. 1" to the lengths to get to the center line.

Food for thought
 

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This is going to be an excellen thread. I hope we can sticky this when its done. I too have a lot to learn on this subject.
 

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kuss said:
I machined an aluminum plug, then used a piece of flat steel bar to hold it down...
Since you had to go to the trouble of machining that plug anyway I thought it might be a good idea turn a grove in it for an o-ring. If you had it chucked up on the lathe anyway it would be very easy to do, and it might help keep some crap out and fluid in.
 

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Kuss, would you mind lathing up another plug? As of now i have the original speedo piece in there with a bolt threaded into where the speedo cable would run through and some winterfresh gum to seal it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Excellent idea, but I'm just gonna Permatex #2 it and call it done
 

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Discussion Starter #8
FordPerf300 said:
Kuss, would you mind lathing up another plug?

Yup, I should be able to do that... no promises on the timeline, I'm trying to crunch on getting the rest of this thing done... maybe if there's enough people swapping to 205s I could make up a bunch of plugs and hand em out for material cost...$5 or so...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
plug ugly said:
hopefully you dont mind me butting in on your thread,
Not at all, here's a ? for you... is the 205 front output about 3" further inboard then the 13-56? I'm thinking that when I put a driveshaft in there, it's gonna come pretty close to the E4OD linkage... that's just eyeballing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
FordPerf300 said:
sweet, let me know kuss. Actually, do you have the dimensions? I could prolly lathe one up at school.
Don't have 'em off hand and I won't be back to the shop until next Tues or Wed. Just grab your calipers!
 

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darn..I'm gonna mess up my sweet winterfresh gum sealing job then. Would a slug of brass be fine for this also? I might beable to "borrow" some from the school.
 

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Is that speedo hole the same thing as on my 90' F-150 with BW12-56? Just wonder if It would need any mods to get the speedo working for me, as the speedo is in the t-case.
 

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your cable will plug right into the 205
 

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well, an answer to the earlier debate (in another thread) about wether there is a spacer required between the klune and E40D. it does not require a spacer, but you will have to cut the output shaft down 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch, and possibly grind down the input shaft on the klune if the splines bottom out. i chose to just run the 3/4" spacer and be done with it. At least then, if it doesnt owrk body/frame/driveshaft issues, I can still cut it down.
 

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OK, Ive got some measurements that are pretty goo.

A 1356 from mouting surface to rear flange face of output is 16.5
a klune/205 with 3/4 spacer to klune to 1/4 mouting foot to 3/4 spacer to 205's rear output flange is 19.25". IF you wanted to bypass the 3/4" spacer between the klune and tranny, you could cut out .75 inches, and the klune combo would be exactly 2" longer than a 1356 with twice the gear reduction.

Im going with the spacer and 19.25", because i stretched the WB 4" so I have plenty of space, and may even consider shortening the stretch some, but doubt it.

Ill post pics later.
 
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