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Discussion Starter #1
Im thinking bout rebuilding my E4OD, I got a mechanic friend who said he'd help me out rebuild it if I helped finish his shop. Looking for what I need for an overhaul, pretty much everything, prob looking at a new Torque converter and a shift kit as well. Im hoping Im only looking at around $1000-1500 for parts.

my reasons for rebuilding are the transmission overheats all the time, boils out the dipstick on the manifold. Leaks fluid out the front seal, its also just started to while at 80km/h to not stay in overdrive, it bounces between 3rd and OD with next to no load on the engine.



thanks

-RC
 

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I just got my E4OD back from the tranny shop today. I removed the tranny and will be installing it myself so that saved me a decent amount. cost me $1050 at the shop but i provided a TCI overhaul kit and Transgo shiftkit from Summit which added 360$. the torque converter was provided in the shops cost but im unsure what brand it is yet. i told the shop how i drive my truck so he built it up abit. then theres ~70$ of tranny fluid, however much it cost to drop the tranny (if you dont do it yourself), whatever else you decide you need to do also. im replacing my exhaust Y-pipe and cats ($215), O2 sensors (my 96 has 2 before the cats so 50x2=$100), u-joints on the trasnfercase (2x30=$60). im at ~$1800 and the dam hting isnt even installed yet but you might not end up replacing as much me. all htins because a dam tranny cooler line.... but i see it as my truck now has a decently built-up tranny, and the engine should run much better without old O2 sensors, exhaust leaks, plugged cats, replacing wornout parts, and its a great learning expeince. anwyas good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
checked the trans fluid, dark burn't colour. this could be the problem. So Im looking at getting it flushed, but am afraid due to some of the nightmare storys you'll read, does look like Ive got much choice tho
 

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The PO of my Bronco included a receipt for a rebuild of the E4OD on 8/23 of this year. Total cost was $1439. Here is the breakdown:

875 labor
20 band
125 pump
8 filter
62 master kit
219 converter
73 trans fluid (14 qts)
60 misc

Hope this helps.
 

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Im thinking bout rebuilding my E4OD, I got a mechanic friend who said he'd help me out rebuild it if I helped finish his shop. Looking for what I need for an overhaul, pretty much everything, prob looking at a new Torque converter and a shift kit as well. Im hoping Im only looking at around $1000-1500 for parts.

my reasons for rebuilding are the transmission overheats all the time, boils out the dipstick on the manifold. Leaks fluid out the front seal, its also just started to while at 80km/h to not stay in overdrive, it bounces between 3rd and OD with next to no load on the engine.



thanks

-RC
A reman trans from Ford has a List Price around $2200 but the dealers will negotiate on that price. Your 95 should have all the latest upgrades and improved gears and center support and shaft. So, If you have someone that actually knows what their doing, your price estimate is probably close. And, maybe even a little on the high side.

My rebuild from a shop needed about $350 in hard part upgrades, and cost me $2200 with everything including shift kit and valve body work.
 

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'88 XLT. 2" lift, 3G, Saginaw Pump, Headers, High flow 3" cat, 3" exhaust, 6 litre tune, K&N
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I'd for sure flush out the cooler lines, you may have a block or partial block. You'd sure hate to put a rebuilt tranny in and have a blocked line f up your new tranny too. There are write ups on adding a tranny cooler and filter. That is something you could do now, and maybe salvage your tranny, if not it will help protect your new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Im in the process of swapping the radiator out as well, hoping that if theres a transmission cooler blockage it was in the old tranny. I'll check if Ive got pressure from the transmission cooling lines heading to the trans as well. which line is the radiator to trans line, and which is the trans to radiator line? wanna make sure I dont have fluid flying everywhere gonna put a piece of hose on the trans-rad line down to a bucket.

searched around for a used transmission EVERYWHERE and found one with 180,000km's for $795... seems a tad steep seeing the mileage on it, its alittle over half what the current transmission has got tho at 360,000km's. Im gonna start asking transmission shops for quote once I do my flush and check if the cooling lines are blocked.

My biggest issue is the fact is switches between 3rd and overdrive constantly, its never done this before and gets really annoying when it does that at the average speed we drive around here. Ive read around and really cant find much info on what this could be. the transmission continues to shift smooth, I think it might slip a bit but I really dont know what to look for. its even smooth shifting into reverse. I dunno
 

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yo,
GL on deciding what to do.

As for flushing the cooler & Lines as Caddy advised and you know


for posterity here is the TSB for reference purposes since none of us have the Rotunda flusher;
"Transmission - New Transmission Cooler Flusher - Service Tip Article No.

0-1-5
1985-94 Tempo
1985-97 Crown Victoria, Thunderbird
1985-2000 Escort, Mustang
1986-2000 Taurus
1988-93 Festiva
1989-97 Probe
1994-97 Aspire
1995-2000 Contour
2000 Focus
1985-90 Bronco II
1985-96 Bronco
1985-97 F-250 HD, F-350
1985-99 F-250 LD
1985-2000 Econoline, F-150, Ranger
1986-97 Aerostar
1988-97 F Super Duty
1991-2000 Explorer
1995-2000 Windstar
1997-2000 Expedition
1999-2000 Super Duty F Series
LINCOLN
1985-92 Mark VII
1985-97 Town Car
1985-2000 Continental
1993-98 Mark VIII
2000 LS
1998-2000 Navigator
MERCURY
1985-94 Topaz
1985-97 Cougar, Grand Marquis
1986-2000 Sable
1987-89 Tracer
1991-94 Capri
1991-2000 Tracer
1995-2000 Mystique
1999-2000 Cougar
1993-2000 Villager
1997-2000 Mountaineer
MERKUR
1985-89 XR4TI
1988-89 Scorpio

ISSUE A new transmission cooler flusher has been released, Rotunda part number 222-00001. This new flusher has many enhancements. It will improve the ability to remove contamination from the transmission cooling system and help prevent repeat repairs. Some of the enhancements include: a pulsating action that will loosen system contamination. In addition, the flusher uses heated Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) to remove varnish and wax buildup, restoring transmission cooling system effectiveness.
ACTION The transmission cooling system (cooler and lines) MUST be flushed anytime the transmission is overhauled or replaced to prevent repeat repairs. The use of this new flusher (222-00001) is the most effective way to remove contamination from the cooling system and, in most cases, eliminate the need to replace the transmission cooler. Varnish and contamination that is left in the transmission cooler system after a failure will damage a transmission if not cleaned out properly. The new cooler flusher is a quick and effective way to clean the contamination out of the transmission cooling system. Refer to the following Service Procedure for more information.


Service Procedure
Allow the fluid in the flusher 15-30 minutes to heat up before using.
Install line adapters into the transmission cooler lines.
Attach the flusher's blue line to the transmission return line quick disconnect.
Attach the flusher's clear line to the transmission outlet line quick disconnect.
Allow the cooling system to back-flush for 10 minutes, then flush the cooler in a forward/normal flow direction for an additional 10 minutes.
When the transmission has been reinstalled, ALWAYS carry out a transmission fluid cooler flow test. For a more detailed operating procedure, refer to the flusher Operating Guide.

CAUTION:
THIS FLUSHER CANNOT BE USED ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH THE TEMPERATURE BYPASS-TYPE TRANSMISSION COOLER CURRENTLY FOUND IN 1998-2000 CROWN VICTORIA, GRAND MARQUIS, AND TOWN CAR."
 

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does the OD button flash ever and soes the spedometer work correctly? could be something as a Vehicle Speed Sensor malfunction maby. but i doubt you will be that lucky and its probably needing a flush or rebuild
 

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Discussion Starter #11
speedo works fine, and I dont notice the overdrive light flash. airbag chirp alarm does go off everytime I turn it off tho. 5 beeps 5 times. and the airbag light blinks.

Im having an issue understanding Meisks post? big words, is that what a transmission shop has when you come in to have the trans flushed?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well while I had the trans lines off the radiator I checked for a leak in the system from the transmission to the radiator and its clear. gonna drop the pan off tomorrow check for any shards of metal, change the filter. let the transmission leak out for the rest of the day and overnight, put it back together and fill her up again wednesday morning... at least thats the plan, Ive also gotta fix this issue with my coil sparking as well. at least now the motor doesnt appear to overheat anymore, sits at the N on the gauge now.
 

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Rebuild parts shouldnt be that much. With a badass case hardened double clutch torque converter I wouldnt think the partsbill would be over $700.00-$800.00. Your buddy needs to be E4OD savvy. They have tell tale problems that are synomous with E4OD. Like the Forward apply pistons are known to crack as well as the Torque Converter piston. Probably wouldnt be a bad idea to get a new solenoid pack too. I would get some cut pressure plates . This way you could get an extra steel and friction in the drums. Might want to consider a kevlar band. When buying the frictions ask if there is like a Red Alto upgrade or B&M stage 1's available for the E4OD. Go with Trans-go on the shift kit. I like their kits and the directions are funny.

You might want to consider a reprogramming kit over a shift kit. Just depends what you are looking for.
 

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speedo works fine, and I dont notice the overdrive light flash. airbag chirp alarm does go off everytime I turn it off tho. 5 beeps 5 times. and the airbag light blinks.

Im having an issue understanding Meisks post? big words, is that what a transmission shop has when you come in to have the trans flushed?
yo, That was for posterity in case that site goes down (many Ford vehivcle sites have been and continue to be hacked out of existence); I know you know that the cooler & lines need to be flushed; Ford dealers service now use ther BG brand equipment instead of the phased-out Rotunda
Here is a Video of it
by Carleton Ford
 

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Discussion Starter #15
dropped the pan, no big chunks of metal. ran a magnet threw a bit of the fluid in the bottom of the pan got some really really fine metal, my guess is just some from the disks wearing over the years. fluid wasnt as dark as I originally thought. forgot to drain the torque converter, gonna go do that now. but for my eyes it all looks fine from what I see.

I did check if there was any plugs from the trans to the radiator and the fluid come out pretty dam quickly so I dont think Ive got a plug

thanks everyone



-rc
 

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Discussion Starter #16
K draining the torque converter now, gonna let it sit overnight then change the filter/gasket put the pan back on and refill it. Gonna have to make another fancy funnel. How much fluid does the system have?
 

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yo;
Here is the 96 Owner's Manual on line for free; ny Hiller Ford; it is a pdf
page 345
I forget what engine and if you have SuperC ooling package, etc.

Sandy did a fluid/filter change in his 94
He wrote; "Here we go, then, changing fluid and filter on an E4OD (including the torque converter) (specifically my 1994 5.0L MAF XLT, not that that makes much difference in this case....buy 2 cases of it (24 quarts). Stated capacity of the E4OD is 16.2 US quarts, but with the added external filter and large cooler, I figure it's better to have plenty of extra. "


Fluid & Filter Change in a 95 (torque specs were corrected); no pics
Source: by cemusic86 at FSB
"...Refill the transmission fluid. If you haven't had a problem with the torque converter, you won't need all 16 quarts of fluid. I only had to put in about 4.
. Run the engine for about 5 to 10 minutes to warm everything up to operating temperature. Check the fluid level, and look underneath for any leaks. Check operation of the transmission, by depressing the brake pedal, and shift through all of the gears, and slowly. Give just a little gas, not enough to break traction, but enough to give the transmission a little push. This will make sure the fluid travels fully throughout the transmission.
. Check the fluid level again, add fluid if needed. Take a short trip around the block to make sure everything is working properly. Check the fluid once more, and look underneath for leaks..."


Fluid Level Check in a 96; Following is from my 96's Owner's Guide; same as your year; It is preferable to check the transmission fluid level at normal operating temperature 150°F-170°F (66°C-77°C), after approximately 20 miles (32 km) of driving. However, if necessary, you can check the fluid level without having to drive 20 miles (32 km) to obtain a normal operating temperature if outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). NOTE: If the vehicle has been operated for an extended period at high speeds or in city traffic during hot weather, or pulling a trailer, the vehicle should be turned off for about 30 minutes to allow the fluid to cool before checking. With the vehicle on a level surface, start the engine and move the transmission shift selector through all of the gear ranges allowing sufficient time for each position to engage. Securely latch the transmission shift selector in the Park (P) position, fully set the parking brake and leave the engine running. NOTE: Vehicles equipped with the 4x4 option must have the 4x4 shift selector in any position other than neutral. WARNING Your vehicle should not be driven if the fluid level is below the bottom hole on the dipstick and outside temperatures are above 50°F (10°C).Wipe off the dipstick cap, pull the dipstick out and wipe the indicator end clean. Put the dipstick back into the filler tube and make sure it is fully seated. Pull the dipstick out and read the fluid level. When checking fluid at normal operating temperature, the fluid level should be within the crosshatched area on the dipstick. When the vehicle has not been driven, and outside temperature is above 50°F (10°C), the fluid level should be between the holes on the dipstick. Adding Automatic Transmission Fluid The fluid type is stamped on the dipstick. Before adding any fluid, be sure that the correct type will be used. Add fluid in 1/2 pint (.25L) increments through the filler tube to bring the level to the correct area on the dipstick. If an overfill occurs, excess fluid should be removed.
Source: by miesk5 at FSB


Fluid & Filter Change in a 96 from 1996 All F-Series and Bronco with E4OD Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual
Loosen, then remove the transmission fluid pan attaching bolts to drain fluid.

CAUTION: Cork gaskets and elastomeric gaskets are not interchangeable. If you remove a cork gasket, replace it with a cork gasket. If you remove an elastomeric gasket, clean, inspect and reuse unless gasket is damaged. Be careful not to cut or bend elastomeric gasket.

Remove transmission pan gasket. If transmission is equipped with a cork gasket, discard it. If transmission is equipped with the new elastomeric reusable gasket, clean, inspect and reuse unless damaged.

Old Style Transmission Pan and Cork Transmission Pan Gasket
see diagram dd0610a

New Style Transmission Pan and Elastomeric Pan Gasket
see diagram dd0611a

Perform required internal repair and cleaning.

Drain the torque converter by removing drain plug.

Thoroughly flush torque converter (7902), cooler lines and transmission in-tank radiator cooler and auxiliary cooler (if equipped).

After torque converter has been drained, install new torque converter drain plug and tighten to 24-27 Nm (18-20 lb-ft).

CAUTION: Mixing 4x4 and 4x2 transmission fluid filters and transmission pan assembly components could cause transmission damage.

Select the appropriate style filter assembly and transmission pan for either 4x2 or 4x4 models.
see d16541a

Replace fluid filter and seal assembly.
CAUTION: Cork gaskets and elastomeric gaskets are not interchangeable. If you remove a cork gasket, replace it with a cork gasket. If you remove an elastomeric gasket, clean, inspect and reuse unless gasket is damaged. Be careful not to cut or bend elastomeric gasket.

NOTE: A unique transmission pan and pan retaining bolts are required to use the new elastomeric gasket for past model service. The cork style gasket will be retained for past model service where a new transmission pan is not required. If the transmission pan is damaged and requires replacement, a kit will be available. This kit will contain a transmission pan, elastomeric gasket and 20 pan bolts having an increased thread length to accommodate current and past model usage.
If transmission is equipped with a cork gasket, discard it and install a new gasket. If transmission is equipped with the new elastomeric reusable gasket, clean, inspect and reuse unless damaged.
Install cleaned pan, gasket and bolts. Tighten bolts to 14-16 Nm (10-12 lb-ft).
CAUTION: Use only MERCON® service fluid as the use of any other fluids may result in a transmission malfunction or failure.

Add 6.2 liters (6.5 quarts) of MERCON® service fluid to the transmission through the fluid filler tube.

Start engine. Move the transmission range selector lever through all gear ranges, checking for engagements.

Check and adjust the transmission fluid level in 0.24 liter (0.5-pint) increments to the proper level (cross-hatched area of the fluid level indicator (7A020) at normal operating temperatures)..."




 

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yo, That was for posterity in case that site goes down (many Ford vehivcle sites have been and continue to be hacked out of existence); I know you know that the cooler & lines need to be flushed; Ford dealers service now use ther BG brand equipment instead of the phased-out Rotunda
Here is a Video of it
by Carleton Ford
That is an interesting video. Looks like a nice service...but I wonder what they charge for it? The old "supply and demand" model I bet. We do not own one of the BG machines so the common man cannot do that as a DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
dropped the pan, fluid actually wasnt as bad as I thought it wouldve been. had minor little specy shavings stuck to the magnet. put it all back together started adding fluid back in and she started spraying fluid outta the new connections to the new radiator....urg gotta go get new connectors
 

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That is an interesting video. Looks like a nice service...but I wonder what they charge for it? The old "supply and demand" model I bet. We do not own one of the BG machines so the common man cannot do that as a DIY.
yo,
I know we don't have the BG eqipt at home; I was just showing what many Ford dealers service now use. They charge over $129.00; some change filter for more $
 
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