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Discussion Starter #1
1990 5.0 with an E4od it takes off really slow like it's taking off in 4th gear or something. We just did a tyranny swap on it from the same year truck. Any suggestions or help would be great ! :banghead
 

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Is there enough fluid in the transmission? If you did a tranny swap, I assumed you did a fluid change. If you didn't do it right, you could still end up with air in the system. What procedure did you use to fill the tranny?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What do you mean air in the system? We pulled the tranny out of the parts bronco with the torque converter in it and swaped it in my dad's bronco and just toped off the fluid. Thanks for the reply.
 

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The transmission is basically a complex hydraulic pump and motor assembly. If there is air anywhere in there, it can cause problems with pressures in the lines. Double check the fluid level. I'm betting its now low. Top it off again, start the motor, run the shifter through all the gears, set it to Neutral, rev the engine, put it in park, shut off the engine and check the levels again. Repeat until the fluid stays full.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea we did that a few times making sure it was topped off. 4x4 works great reverse works fine, just seems like it's taking off in fourth gear. I'm stumped.
 

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yo E,
This is by Ford for E4OD in a o6, but similar to 1990;
"...Shift Concerns: No 1st Gear In Drive, Engages In Higher Gear
Possible Component
Reference/Action
215 — ELECTRICAL ROUTINE
Powertrain Control System
•Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, powertrain control module, shift solenoid 1, shift solenoid 2, transmission range sensor
•Run On-Board Diagnostics. Service as required. Clear codes, road test and rerun On-Board Diagnostics.
This is the Code Test; try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded

A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.
Some basics;
Visual Check
1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.
2.Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.
3.Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.
4.Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage; IAC, TPS I see was replaced, etc.5.Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
6.Check the transmission fluid level and quality. See E4OD Fluid Condition Check Below)
7.Make all necessary repairs before continuing
8. Check headlights

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic);
Turn off all accessories; radio, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc. (close driver's door)
Then turn off engine and wait 10 seconds.
Do KOEO test First
Post Code(s) here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER

315 — HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE
Shift Linkage (Internal/External) or Cables, Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (aka manual lever position sensor (MLPS)
•Damaged, not connected, misadjusted
•Inspect and service as required. Verify linkage adjustment as outlined. After servicing linkage, verify that the transmission range (TR) sensor is properly adjusted.
Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40055
Main Controls
•Bolts not tightened to specification
•Retighten bolts to specification.

•Gaskets damaged, misaligned
•Inspect for damage and replace.

•Shift solenoid 1, shift solenoid 2 stuck or damaged
•Refer to Electrical Routine No. 215.

•Solenoid regulator valve, 2-3 shift valve, 3-4 shift valve, D2 valve — stuck, missing, misassembled, damaged
•Inspect for damage. Service as required.

•Air bleeds for S1-S2 circuits missing
•Inspect for damage. Replace case.

•Wrong components used in rebuild
•Verify that proper components were used. Service as required.

Mechanical
•Band servo, clutches damaged
•Refer to proper disassembly procedures in this section.

For diagnosis related to a specific gear, use Transmission Tester to determine gear Refer to the following routine(s) for further diagnosis
No Shift 1-2, Routine 220/320
No Shift 2-3, Routine 221/321
No Shift 3-4, Routine 222/322
Reverse Ring Gear
•Damaged gear lugs to reverse carrier
•Inspect for damage. Service as required.

Low One-Way Clutch
•Damaged, misassembled
•Inspect for damage, proper assembly. Service as required.
 

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The transmission is basically a complex hydraulic pump and motor assembly. If there is air anywhere in there, it can cause problems with pressures in the lines. Double check the fluid level. I'm betting its now low. Top it off again, start the motor, run the shifter through all the gears, set it to Neutral, rev the engine, put it in park, shut off the engine and check the levels again. Repeat until the fluid stays full.
You check e4od with engine off?? I thought practically all autos were checked running in park/neutral and @ operating temp.

could be a MLPS/NSS/Transmission Range Selector issue. but im not sure.
Range selector out of adjustment was gonna be my guess. Double check all connections also.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the help. I replaced the mlps because I didn't have a probe to test it with, but still the same issue. If the filter dropped in the pan could it cause it to do this ? I did pull codes but they were about o2 sensors.
 

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yo
Post the Codes anyway

Filter Clip Alternative; "... have seen many threads and received many pm's as of late speaking of the stay-put filter clip used to keep the filters from falling out of the pump in the e4od. there is an alternative to using this clip. it is more expensive but also has more benefits than just using this clip. you can get a trans pan from a 03 super-duty truck. this pan has little humps in the bottom to but up against the bottom of the filter and this keeps the filter from falling down. this pan also has a drain plug and extra capacity for 1.5 more qts of fluid. this pan also allows you to use the much better elastomer gasket. it is reusable and virtually leak-proof. much better than the cork design. it does require the use of a 4x4 filter..."
Source: by thePUNISHER (Paul) at FSB

Filter Magnet; E4OD Kills Engine in Gear; "...works as a filter retainer; w/Ford PN and size; basically this is a magnet Ford uses to keep the filter in-place tightly into the pump; Ford pn F3RZ-7E290-AC..."
Source: by spxfiltran.com via web.archive
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bronco FIXED

Decided to use the trans harness off the parts bronco and she pulls hard now. My dad can sleep in peace tonight. :histerica

Thanks guys
 
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