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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Step 1: The most important thing is to buy a CHILTONS or HAYNES manual!

Step 2: Chock the front wheels, loosen your lug nuts, jack up the vehicle, and secure it on jackstands!

Step 3: Pull off the tires and drums, you may need to "back off" the self adjuster through the rear of the drum. You will need two flathead screwdrivers, one to hold the plate away and one to turn the star.

Step 4: Pull off the drums...

if they look like this be ready for some serious cleaning!

Spep 5: Get all your parts ahead of time!

as you can see I bought all new pads, hardware (I always use new hardware its cheap insurance) and wheel cylinders. What you can't see is I also replaced the drums.

Step 6: Put it all together.

you did buy a Haynes/Chilton's didn't you? Now read in there about bleeding the brakes, cause anytime you disconnect a brake line you need to bleed the brakes.




























(If you haven't realized by now, the main point of this thread is to buy a reputable repair manual for your vehicle. Alot of the questions that are asked on FSB could be answered with one of these manuals They even break down the VIN numbers! If you haven't already buy a manual it will make your life TONS easier. I personally prefer Haynes, I was unable to find one for this Bronco so I bought a Chilton's until I can find one. The point is I have a manual and so should you.)
 

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Dude.. I would fly you out to San Diego if you could do my rear breaks...
The other day I bought the front and rear pads. Started with the front. Noticed the dust boot on the piston was back so ended up rebuilding the calapers and putting all new bearings in because I had the rotor off getting it turned..

Then I moved to the rear... I took one tire off and got the drum off with out having to adjust the screw.. Looked at all the springs and the LACK of detail the lame ass chilton book gives you. Got it half way appart befire I thought if I got it any more appart I would never get it back together..

Now when I try to stop it seems the front breaks are doing all the work.
Tried to adjust the scrwe got the rear breaks and still feels funny..

Did you use a special tool to help with the springs?
 

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with me personally being a ex auto mechanic....i have specialty brake tools for that kinda stuff...XLTChris, what would do best to adjust the brakes in the rear is called a brake spoon...you could probably get one and any parts store that sells misc. tools or go to your local tool store to get one.Even a whole brake tool kit isnt that much.

Best bet also if you want quality stuff is flag down a Snap on, Matco or Mac dealer if you see one drivin around.
 

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(If you haven't realized by now, the main point of this thread is to buy a reputable repair manual for your vehicle. Alot of the questions that are asked on FSB could be answered with one of these manuals They even break down the VIN numbers! If you haven't already buy a manual it will make your life TONS easier. I personally prefer Haynes, I was unable to find one for this Bronco so I bought a Chilton's until I can find one. The point is I have a manual and so should you.)
:stupid
 

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them damn springs are a bitch with out that tool, but once you figure it out it is all gravy. if you want i'll post up a picture or two on how to use the tool.
 

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REar is easy to do.. I just ask my dad for some help, and he ends up doing it for me.. Doh. One day I'll learn how to do it...
 

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I'm a shadetree wannabe newb when it comes to repairs and mechanics. I have both, a Haynes and a Chilton's, and when you're a newb whose never had anyone teach you any auto mechanic skills before, those two manuals leave alot to be desired. When I removed and re-installed the tranny for the first time, I just wanted to shoot the authors of those two publications. Their instructions were pathetic - "remove such and such." Great, but HOW do I remove such and such? Instead of good, color pics, they give you a few black and white pics, or a diagram, and most of the time the diagram has the caption (other models similar - yeah, right).

I did the front brakes and wheel bearings for the first time also trying to use both manuals. Again, they sucked. I ended up using the great tech articles and color pics found in this tech folder and in other members' own webpages - MUCH, MUCH more detailed and explanatory, usually with helpful tips on what kind of tools were used and HOW to use the tool to "remove such and such".

Don't get me wrong, the manuals help alot, but for dumba$$es like me who've never done stuff like this before, I use them more as supplemental guides, while I try to find better sources that explain with more detail and better, more up-close pics on how to do the task at hand. I'd like to get my hands on the factory service manuals for the specific year and model Broncos I own, but rather than pay $100 for each one, I continue to rely more on this site and others' webpages and use the Haynes and Chiltons as supplemental guides.

Just my .02
 

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Bronco85 said:
REar is easy to do.. I just ask my dad for some help, and he ends up doing it for me.. Doh. One day I'll learn how to do it...
You have done a SAS but can't do the rear brakes?!? :boxing
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have always used a big frigging pair of pliers on the springs...after much cussing and a bloodie eye brow ('bout knocked myself out!) next time I will buy the tools...

The manuals are not perfect, but they do help and are an excellent aid. Everything I ever learned about cars/trucks I learned by watching (helping) other people, reading books, asking questions and actually tearing into things.
 

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I have the break "spoon" tool.. The thing you stick behind the breaks and turn the little wheel..
I still have the old breaks because they looked really good still but after replacing the front the truck felt funny. I think I might have pit the one side back together wrong or something... Anyways.. I have a friend at Cadillac that does the breaks and he said to jack the truck up and turn the wheel untill, then I tuen the tire I feel resistance.. I did this and now it feels like the front might be doing 90% of the breaking.. I am going to tear it appart this weekend and see if I can fix everything..

What tool can I get to make taking the springs on and off easier?
I would like to replace the pads, springs and pistons..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did the front brakes and wheel bearings for the first time
did you torque the lock rings to the right torque then back it off a skosh? ...both of them? Pull the hubs back off and make sure that they are all the way up seated, then make sure everything is at the right torque.
 

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Big Mike C. said:
did you torque the lock rings to the right torque then back it off a skosh? ...both of them? Pull the hubs back off and make sure that they are all the way up seated, then make sure everything is at the right torque.
Yep, torqued the inner lockring to 50 or so, then backed it off, then re-torqued to about 40-45 or so. Had to do it twice because one of the previous owners (or his mechanic) put both inner lockrings on one side and both outer lockrings on the other side - I was wondering why none of the lockrings on the passenger side didn't have the little pin in it.

Unfortunately, my torque wrench won't go up to 150 lbs., nor will the weak muscles in my arm, so I just torqued the outer lockring as much as I could while trying to keep that dang hub socket from slipping. I don't think the Warn manual hubs will go on if they're not torqued all the way, either, but they went on smoothly and spin freely by hand, unlike the ones on my 93 which require superstrong fingers to move the dial (guess I'll have to check the lockrings on that one). But who knows, maybe it's something else that keeps them from dialing easily?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Huh...I would just take everything apart and recheck it all, it may be something simple and obvious or you may never figure it out and it work perfectly. Just take your time putting it all back together and let us know how it goes.
 

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Big Mike C. said:
Huh...I would just take everything apart and recheck it all, it may be something simple and obvious or you may never figure it out and it work perfectly. Just take your time putting it all back together and let us know how it goes.
Yeah, now that I learned how to do the front brakes and wheel bearings on my 86, I plan on doing the same on my 93 sometime this summer. Hopefully it'll solve the hard dialing on those new Warn premiums.
 

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nbaff said:
You have done a SAS but can't do the rear brakes?!? :boxing
What are you trying to say? I've only done a break job once. And that was on my '93 when I lifted it last fall. I gotta put new pads on the '85 soon though. They're alteast 5 years old now.
 

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swampertrax said:
Just a stupid question but are those two primary shoes on that wheel or is it just the picture?
The 9" I just re-did the rear brakes on last week used four identical shoes -- both the set that came off (what was left of them, which didn't include much in the way of pad) and the new identical set of 4 that went back on. I was under the impression this was normal, and the system works fine ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Chuck said:
The 9" I just re-did the rear brakes on last week used four identical shoes -- both the set that came off (what was left of them, which didn't include much in the way of pad) and the new identical set of 4 that went back on. I was under the impression this was normal, and the system works fine ...
ditto...same size on it and replaced with the same size. It seems like back in the day when I had my '78 F-100 it had the different size shoes for the 9" I guess it is cheaper for them to produce the same size and it doesn't effect the braking? :shrug
 

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Mine were different


You can get the tools at sears. A set comes with a brake spoon, pliers and regular rod thing Only problem is the black cone shaped thing slips around on the rod so it doesnt help at all. Think it cost between 25-30 bucks
 
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