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Discussion Starter #1
I looked in the haynes manual and the posts here and it sounds like a simple job, but I look under the left kick panel of the truck and it looks like I have to spend two hours getting to it...What am I missing? I am thinking this should be a quick thing to get to. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
 

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look in the engine bay on the drivers side firewall. There's a large rectangular connector with a bolt in the middle. That's the EEC connector. Unbolt the middle bolt and unplug it. There's a bolt on each end of the connector holding the weather seal on. Remove them and pull off the weatherseal. then you can pull the EEC straight out. You may have to pull the plastic inner wheel well back a bit to clear it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for that info. I will go out and give that a shot and post back.
 

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green ones make me horny
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shouldnt have to remove fender well it should just come out. why are you trying to take it out?
 

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green ones make me horny
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did you disconnect the battery when you replaced the tranny? i dont see how it could happen either. mine fried when exhaust shop welded on my truck without proper ground. Also, is it only no fuel symptom? could just be a coincidence that your fuel pump relay or pump went out the same time. Interesting to say the least. Pull the ECM and check for fried capacitors or what not. thats what i did. but mine was throwing all sorts of nonsense codes. like no fuel, air or spark when engine was idling. best of luck. is it throwing any codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I get no codes. I can jump the FP relay and get fuel pressure and still no start. no check engine light with key on either.
 

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green ones make me horny
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I didnt have too when I took mine out. It will just come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There's no reason to start another thread for a small step in a procedure you're already discussing. This could (& SHOULD) have been part of that thread.

The EEC will not come out without displacing the wheelwell. In the JY, I usually just find a loose torsion bar to drop on it & bend it down. At home, take out a few of the screws along the lip.
I thought about putting this question in the other thread that I have going, but I decided to keep this one separate so that when others search in the future for ECM removal that the removal topic would not be buried inside of the other thread.

I will drop try to get it out with the wheel well in place first and if the doesn't work then I will undo some screws and drop it. Thanks for all the help from all.
 

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Hello. I hate to break the conversation but i have the same issue. Replaced engine block and rebuilt the transmission.the shop that replaced the block said i needed a new transmission, there was nothing wrong with the tranny before... Nothing... The guy who rebuilt the transmission said the issues is the ecm... Where can i get a ecm?

1996 ford bronco xlt
Litre - 5.8L
Part # - F6TF-12A650-ASB
Catch code - TIN1
Hardware - ML1-441
 
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