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Discussion Starter #1
ECORS is the closest thing we have to "desert" racing our east, yeah it's more like woods racing....Anyway the stock class is very competetive, and being able to go fast and not break down is the key to winning.

www.ecors.com

A quick run down of stock class rules:
1. No coilovers/airshocks/etc- Stock style suspension
2. Long travel kits/mods ok (so I can extend radius arms, c&t beams, etc)
3. No engine swaps (that's ok, got a 351w)
4. Safety items blah blah blah (I'll be running at least a 6 point cage, tied to the frame and suspension seats/5pt harnesses, not a big deal)
5. 35" tire max w/ no lockers, 33" tire max with 1 locker


I've been wanting to do some racing and have a "go fast" trail rig for those fire roading trips.

I thought about building a Ranger or a Toyota, but my ol FSB seems like a sold choice. I mean HELL, it already has "Baja" style bumpers :toothless All tube work is and will be 1.75"x.120 DOM (might get some .095 wall for interior tubes.

Specs:
89 Bronco 103K miles
351W efi
C6
BW1356
D44 TTB front
8.8 rear (have 9" to replace it)




My plans : I am editing this as I go along and as discussion in this thread gives me ideas

Suspension:
Front: remote resi 2.5" FOA, custom mount, 2" lift springs for the front (cc826),
Rear: remote resi 2.5" FOA, stock springs minus over load, plus long add-a-leaf, longer rear shackles, 2 link traction bars

Drivetrain: fix leaks/exhaust on the motor, trans is fine, BIG cooler for trans, new u-joints throughout, modify front shafts for full circle clips, Dana 50 center shaft, open front diff, 9" swap in rear with discs and spool. EDIT: Open diff or ARB to use cutting brakes now.

Tires: run whatever 285/75-16 and 305/75-16 I can pick up used for cheap/free. Keeps me under the 33" tire limit so I can run the spool in the rear.

Interior: Corbeau XPs and 5 points, plus fire extinguishers, safety equip, etc.

My main debate on starting the rig is what I want to do with the body.
EDIT: I'LL be keeping most all of the stock body, in case I race in other stock class series besides ECORS, and to "rep" the FSB!
Debating doing a full tube rig with rear radiator like Davids "Lil Digger"


Or maybe save some time and $ on mounting steering/pedals/shifters/gauges/wiring etc and build a "firewall buggy", mostly tube, but stock firewall/dash/controls like my 4runner


My last option is just doin an interior cage and removing doors/glass/tailgate.
I'm kinda leaning toward this just for simplicity, but I'd really like to cut the weight of the sheet metal and make the "body" smaller with one of the above options... I'm going to weigh the pig and see just how much fat I can trim.

Any and all feedback is appreciated, tell me if I'm doing something wrong, or could save a pile of $ somewhere!

I'm not sure what to do on the rear suspension yet.

I've read through the Daily Driver Mods thread and think I've got a pretty good game plan from that. Especially since I plan on cutting out ALL unneccessary items (interior, a/c, heat, doors, glass, tail gate, hood?(replace w/ fiberglass?)

I have to keep the winch because there are rock sections that I'll most likely get hung up in...
 

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NICE. I've been day dreaming about racing ECORS with my Bronco for a while now. I'd like to race class B, but I'm just a little too built for it. That puts me in class C where I would be competing against all of the serious full custom buggys, and I just don't think I'd be competetive with them.

Anyway, if you're going to run the TTB you will definitely need to put in a D50 stub shaft. That moves the weak point in the front end out to either the locking hubs or the outer shafts, both of which are easier to change on the fly than a stub shaft.

Think real hard about ditching that stock 33 gallon gas tank and installing in it's place a 12-15 gallon fuel cell and a fat skid plate.

I wouldn't do the radical body reduction right up front. Ditch the top to save some weight and race it for a season to see how you do. I just hate to see cool Bronco's hacked up like that. If you race a season and feel that you need to do more, then consider some more radical trimming. I'd consider dovetailing it.

Install an anti-wrap bar on the rear. ECORS can be down right abusive on the hardware, and I know that I busted the living crap out of my 8.8 in a full throttle situation like that. Axle wrap will hash your rear end quick in that kind of an enviroment.

When you do eventually destroy the 8.8, and you will, I'd think real hard about installing an 8 lug D60 rear. Yeah, I know, I know, it's not as strong as the other 8 lug rears, but it also has way better ground clearance. Go with 35 spline shafts when you build it.

I guess serious heavy diff covers almost go without saying.

If it were my rig I'd also want OBA and bead locks.

That's just the first things that come to mind, but I'm sure that some more will occur to me. Good luck with your build! I don't think I have the time to race myself like I'd like to, but maybe I can come out and pit crew for you or something at some of the North Carolina races.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
NICE. I've been day dreaming about racing ECORS with my Bronco for a while now. I'd like to race class B, but I'm just a little too built for it. That puts me in class C where I would be competing against all of the serious full custom buggys, and I just don't think I'd be competetive with them. Nope, that's why I'm putting this broc together for stock class. AND payouts are normally good in stock class since a bunch of locals will usually throw their hat in

Anyway, if you're going to run the TTB you will definitely need to put in a D50 stub shaft. That moves the weak point in the front end out to either the locking hubs or the outer shafts, both of which are easier to change on the fly than a stub shaft. I just scrapped a F250 D50 front :smilie_slap I can't run a front locker, so I'm not really worried about it. There is a guy with a ford junkyard on the other side of the mtn from me, I'm gonna see if I can get some spares from him. I am planning on full circle snap rings on all 3 front axle joints

Think real hard about ditching that stock 33 gallon gas tank and installing in it's place a 12-15 gallon fuel cell and a fat skid plate. Already got a bomb proof skid, I am going to cut the "legs" down on it and move the tank up into the bed about half wat, I am keeping the 33 gal tank for now. Those long races like the upcoming windrock race it may be an advantage. I'll run it till I figure out an average race mpg.

I wouldn't do the radical body reduction right up front. Ditch the top to save some weight and race it for a season to see how you do. I just hate to see cool Bronco's hacked up like that. If you race a season and feel that you need to do more, then consider some more radical trimming. I'd consider dovetailing it. Dovetail is definietly on the list of possibility, esp since i am gutting it and cutting the floor up anyway.

Install an anti-wrap bar on the rear. ECORS can be down right abusive on the hardware, and I know that I busted the living crap out of my 8.8 in a full throttle situation like that. Axle wrap will hash your rear end quick in that kind of an enviroment.I plan on running a 2 link in the rear

When you do eventually destroy the 8.8, and you will, I'd think real hard about installing an 8 lug D60 rear. Yeah, I know, I know, it's not as strong as the other 8 lug rears, but it also has way better ground clearance. Go with 35 spline shafts when you build it. That's not a bad idea. I already have a 9" that's going in it, so if I waste it, I'll look into more beef.

I guess serious heavy diff covers almost go without saying. Yep

If it were my rig I'd also want OBA and bead locks. I'm converting the a/c comp for OBA, plus I'll have at least a 5 gal tank for reserve/ bead seating. I also hope that I can get a discount/sponsorship from Inner Air Lock. I have bought 2 sets of their locks in the past and am very pleased with them. They could also function as temporary run flats/rim savers in case of flat, just to get me off the course.

That's just the first things that come to mind, but I'm sure that some more will occur to me. Good luck with your build! I don't think I have the time to race myself like I'd like to, but maybe I can come out and pit crew for you or something at some of the North Carolina races.
Thanks, I think it will be a blast.:rockon
 

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Rear leaves work well if you remove the overload and install a soft ride add-a-leaf. Make sure you plate the passenger beam in on the backside where it's open.

I don't think I'd cut the body up... just remove glass and interior. That's 80% of it's weight anyway.
 

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I just scrapped a F250 D50 front I can't run a front locker, so I'm not really worried about it. There is a guy with a ford junkyard on the other side of the mtn from me, I'm gonna see if I can get some spares from him. I am planning on full circle snap rings on all 3 front axle joints
Well, it's not like D50 TTB's are rare jewels or anything. Having said that, your upgraded U-joints are going to be worthless when the ears snap off of that stock stub shaft. Seriously, I've personally broken two of them, and seen three more busted on other folks rigs in moderate wheeling. Locker or not, the stock one just won't hold up. It is probably the weakest part of the D44 TTB.
 

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Well, it's not like D50 TTB's are rare jewels or anything. Having said that, your upgraded U-joints are going to be worthless when the ears snap off of that stock stub shaft. Seriously, I've personally broken two of them, and seen three more busted on other folks rigs in moderate wheeling. Locker or not, the stock one just won't hold up. It is probably the weakest part of the D44 TTB.
The stock u-joints should be fine with 33" tires. I have been running my originals with 35" tires for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, it's not like D50 TTB's are rare jewels or anything. Having said that, your upgraded U-joints are going to be worthless when the ears snap off of that stock stub shaft. Seriously, I've personally broken two of them, and seen three more busted on other folks rigs in moderate wheeling. Locker or not, the stock one just won't hold up. It is probably the weakest part of the D44 TTB.
I'll be sure to grab a D50 mid shaft. I've already got a spring to put in the slip so I dont have to run the C-clip.

I'm not going to run "upgraded" u-joints, just stock spicer replacements.

The full circle snap rings are just to keep the caps in place incase the ears deform.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
New plan after attending the ECORS race at Windrock. (I also pit for/hang with/heckle Team RobbyBobby which took 1st place in Stock Class at this race)

Manuverability is going to be much more beneficial to me than running a spooled rear axle.

I will be doing a disc brake swap with cutting brakes in the rear.

The #77 FlatBillerKiller Jeep has cutting brakes on full width Dodge 1/2 ton axles and the added handling capabilites were key to winning.

Also, the race courses through the woods are TIGHT. Cutting brakes are going to be almost a neccessity for push a big pig FSB through the woods with any kind of quickness.

After researching, I believe I will be using a dual handle cutting brake lever setup to "push" the levers.




If I get sponsored in any way to where I can afford an ARB for the rear, I'll most likely do that also, as it will give me added capability while still falling under the rules of "one locker with 33" tires or less":thumbup
 

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My opinion I would do a firewall buggy, 33's with a locker for sure, running 33x13.5 LTB's (not boggers, maybe regular bias TSLs) 2" lift all the way around is perfect just like you stated, and I would definitely do the 9" swap and d50 stubby.

Other than that, just the chit that goes with it ... I would long arm it (even if they're cheap) and a shift kit (which is like $130)
 

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If I were you I would go with 1.75 .120 wall on the cage it's alittle heavier than .095 but to handle the weight of a full size truck it's better to go big rather than going home on a stretcher.. Just my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so no coil over.... can you mod the shock towers and install a long shock???? a spool with 33s word work good. it makes the rear real easy to slide around. lockers dont like one tire being locked up. if you had an arb maybe
nope, have to retain "stock style suspension", but yes, I can mod the coil towers for longer shocks.

And yeah, the spool idea went out with the additon of cutting brakes, I mentioned an ARB above, but I'll have to win some races or get some sponsorship before that goes in.

My opinion I would do a firewall buggy, 33's with a locker for sure, running 33x13.5 LTB's (not boggers, maybe regular bias TSLs) 2" lift all the way around is perfect just like you stated, and I would definitely do the 9" swap and d50 stubby.

Other than that, just the chit that goes with it ... I would long arm it (even if they're cheap) and a shift kit (which is like $130)
I'd really like to do this, but if I deciede to run stock class in any other series I will have to retain full body. Even doors for the TREC series at Badlands. I've already looked at 33 LTBs as a serious option for "wet" tires. On a dry course, I'd rather run my almost bald radials.

If I were you I would go with 1.75 .120 wall on the cage it's alittle heavier than .095 but to handle the weight of a full size truck it's better to go big rather than going home on a stretcher.. Just my opinion
That's probably what I'll end up doing, I have 7 sticks of .120 wall so that should be more than enough to cage me in.
 

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post some pic's of your ride as you are working on it. i am very interested in this, is there a site for this race series?
 

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I'd really like to do this, but if I deciede to run stock class in any other series I will have to retain full body. Even doors for the TREC series at Badlands. I've already looked at 33 LTBs as a serious option for "wet" tires. On a dry course, I'd rather run my almost bald radials.
So wait, you are allowed to modify the body or aren't you? I thought in the first post you said you were looking to chop it up?

And I assumed by looking at the pics above that it might be a rock/dirt course. I have a friend who has a post on pirate specifically testing a bunch of different tires on rock courses and was most pleased with LTB, hence my recommendation.

What kind of environment will this race be in? Is it strictly hard packed dirt roads? Is it rocky? Any loose/low traction areas? The ECORS site shows a lot of mud on there, and I just assumed that you were running the same course.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
post some pic's of your ride as you are working on it. i am very interested in this, is there a site for this race series?
Don't worry, I'll post pics when I get started. I'm waiting on the 2012 rule book to come out before I do a lot of chopping.

website is http://www.ecors.com/

So wait, you are allowed to modify the body or aren't you? I thought in the first post you said you were looking to chop it up?

In Ecors, you CAN do whatever to the body. There are no body restrictions, only suspension, drivetrain, and tire size limitations. In the TREC, Dirt Riot, and Ultra4 series, they have very strict body modification rules. (No cutting of inner fenders, must run doors, tailgate, etc...

And I assumed by looking at the pics above that it might be a rock/dirt course. I have a friend who has a post on pirate specifically testing a bunch of different tires on rock courses and was most pleased with LTB, hence my recommendation.

What kind of environment will this race be in? Is it strictly hard packed dirt roads? Is it rocky? Any loose/low traction areas? The ECORS site shows a lot of mud on there, and I just assumed that you were running the same course.
The races are on multiple terrain. The stock class courses usually dont have much rock crawling type terrain, mostly dirt roads and trails through woods and fields. The mud is not intentional, it just happens to rain the day before the race a lot it seems :barf
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I got started on here pony

I'm planning on running A-Class next year, and giving it a decent effort.

I was debating stripping the bronco and running the body, or going to a full tube "topper" chassis.

Well, I wrecked the shit out of the bronc on the way back from the creek one night, so it made up my mind for me.



Got it stripped down and the wiring harness cut down to just engine function... Started the motor up and forgot that I had cut the trans cooler lines with bolt cutters, so it proceded to make a fan spray akin to that of a large agricultural sprayer and soaked me and one shop door before I could get the ring terminals off the battery...:shaking::shaking:





My "helper" likes her new bed... and has the "WTF" look while I'm chopping up wires like a butcher in the deli
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hauled off the old body and shit.. About 1700 lbs worth!!!



Got the motor resealed and back together, got all my new fuel lines made up, and waiting on my C6 from KillerB. C6 will be full manual, standard pattern valve body, built with all the good parts:huggy:




Also started on the 9" for the rear, got some bitchin disc brake bracket from Speedway motors for $10 each. They use standard GM metric "small" calipers. Got loaded calipers, soft lines, and hardware for the front of an 85 Monte Carlo from ROCKAUTO. Still need to order my cutting brake master.




Found my grille also, it was in the back of a K5 blazer that I sold my buddy Gabe about a month ago LOL


Oh yeah, and I picked up some NEW Corbeau Baja Ultra SS Wides and Crow 5 pt harnesses and this old grungy 8274 from Gabe. need to tear into the 8274 and make sure she's good to go in case of another Windrock winchfest. I'll be flyin up tha hills on Warn power!

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Picked up some Corbeau Baja Ultra SS Wides and Crow 5 pts.



also got a BIG fire extinguisher and a "race jack" that need to get mounted somewhere. Anyone got the hook up on some of those sweet quick disconnect mounts?

 

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Discussion Starter #20
hit a lil snag today. Tore into the 3rd from the 9" to prep it. Someone had been into it before, bearing adjusters were scarred up from a chisel/screwdriver. So I clamped the 3rd up and torqued the spanners down 2 notches each with the PROPER TOOL, a homebuilt spanner bar. This got the carrier bearing preload up to where I like it. Also checked torque on bearing caps, 95 ft-lbs good.



Then I thought I should pull the ring gear bolts and clean/loctite/retorque them given the 9" history of loose ring gear bolts...

I removed every other bolt and cleaned them up. Bolts were kinda loose, and cleaning them up revealed evidence of this... Threads messed up, bolts streched, etc... Dammit.



Now I really need a full rebuild/install kit to R&R the diff before I'll run it. Looks like a sponsorship opportunity! :D

This sums up my feelings on the findings in the diff :flipoff2:


So the 9" is going on the back burner now, I'll leave the welded 8.8" in the back until I can get my parts together.
 
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