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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a new 1406 on a freshly rebuilt 400m the Bronco had been sitting along time.I pumped all the old gas I could get out of the tank it smelled old but didn't look like it had water in it . Installed new fuel filter before new fuel pump after adjusting time and carburetor it cranks fine ldles fine but hesitates when you floor it.My question is do you think I have a problem with the tank and not getting it drained all the way empty.I am thinking about buying a new tank and running new fuel lines.I did put sea foam in it. Thanks Phil.
 

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Make sure the float level is set properly, adjust the accelerator pump arm closer to the body of the carb, remove vacuum advance hose from distributor( for now). What is yout initial and total timing? What step up springs , rods, jets are in the carb? Lots of possibilities. I have done my fair share with these carbs.
 

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You're on the right track following what MRHP is saying.

Did you buy the carb new? If you did, we can already tell what springs, jets and rods are in it...if it's used, it's possible everything has been changed. Even jets for the secondary venturies and the accelerator pump could have been changed if the thing is used! I bought a used one that had two different rods in it once...

What do your plugs look like? Do you have any issues anywhere else besides going from idle to wide open throttle?

These carbs are easy to change parts on, but to really tune it the best tool I've ever seen is a air/fuel ratio meter. It seems like a waste at first, but it'll come in handy in every single carb'd vehicle you ever decide to tinker with and is lightyears beyond any ol' hillbilly turning screws on the thing. The worst part about those meters is they'll let you know just how terrible a carb is for your vehicle.

Also, for tuning anything other than some very very basic things like idle quality and pump shot, you're going to need one of Edelbrock's tuning kits. They are pretty cheap.

For the mild 400 I was running on my Bronco, I think I went with calibration number 25 from the manual...that needed a needle and jet from tuning kit #1487 and a set of springs from outside of the kit...I think. Maybe it was a pair of jets from outside the kit...I dont recall, but it worked great for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The carb and performer intake both edelbrock are new man tuning it correctly sounds really complicated.
 

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Tuning is not that hard, you just need to understand what each circuit does, and what symptom you have. It will take some time, but not that complicated. Read the manual you got with the carb a few times, and try to understand the troubleshooting tips. What is your initial and total timing? We must know this. Disconnect the vacuum advance for now. Now go get to work.
 

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MRHP is right again. It's not complicated, it's just not automatic. Things that a computer monitors and adjusts in a modern modified vehicle dont get monitored with a carb.

The two hardest things to change on your carb are the float level and the jets. And while those are the hardest things, they are still super easy.

Just a few things to consider, since you're not familiar with carbs: Dont over tighten shit on them. These Edelbrocks are fairly tolerant of abuse, but you can still warp the machined mounting flange where it attaches to the manifold...all you need to do is keep it from leaking vacuum. Ditto for the top cover; if/when you remove it to change jets or adjust floats (and you should check floats EVERY time you pull that off, since it's so easy to do and you're right there anyhow) make sure you tighten them just enough. Maybe...finger tight plus an eighth turn? I think there's a torque spec in the manual, but who uses that?

Torque specs are for chumps.

As tedious as it is, make sure you write down what changes you made. If you keep a vehicle log book or something, it's nice to have handy. It's also nice to make some notes while youre tuning so you can remember tomorrow what happened today. You may forget that having the accelerator pump on the hole farthest from the carb DOESN'T bog and the one closest is so rich it farts before any acceleration.

Heck, youre already starting at a known point (Stock) and have at least one suggestion for what ran on a very similar vehicle.

Anyhow, the point of that is: It's not hard or complicated, just involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I forgot to mention I had the motor bored 30 over with new pistons mild cam,hooker full length headers.I haven't put pipes on it yet so the headers are open.
 

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Get your exhaust on before you start changing too much. The exhaust will require to reset the carb again. Adjusting the accelerator pump arm and idle mixture screws are good to do now, along with verifying float level and checking fuel pressure. The Edelbrock carbs like 5 psi. I usually set the float a touch lower than spec as well.
 
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