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Discussion Starter #1
So i've been having these random no starts, and weird engine limits so i decided to pull the eec and see if there happens to be a capacitor leaking. Well it looks like there is a miniscule leak on 2 of the 3 capacitors. How would you guys go about replacing these? Also what type are they? I REALLY don't want to fork over 100 bucks if its possible to replace them...


 

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Roller rockers are gay
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Well there's the problem! In the last picture! 79F150 if in your EEC. He's probably just fawking with you!
 

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Some assembly required!
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Nice find, that very well may be the culprit. Those caps are a known issue, at least in the Motorola two way radio world. The caps have a rubber stopper underneath that the leads pass through. That rubber stopper eventually dry rots and allows some acidic fluid to leak out and it will corode the circuit board below. The good news is that unless you have an advanced case of corrosion, which doesn't appear to be the case, you can usually salvage the board. The good news is that those caps should be cheap and easy to replace. I generally buy stuff like that from Digi-key. The nice thing about Digi-key is that they will definitely have what you need and they don't have a minimum order for most stuff like that. I recently replaced my EEC to fix a similar electrical gremlin that had been dogging me for a while. I had the same cap corrosion and wanted to do this repair myself, but I didn't have time to order in the parts, so I just went with the reman EEC.
 

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I see Broncos
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Yep same thing happened to me. For me the fuel pump wouldn't prime but ran like a champ when when i jumped the contacts.

Removing the ECM from the truck took more time than it took to repair the caps.

Looks like a 16 Volt 47 microfarad cap. You'll need to find one that is at equal or higher voltage and capacity than that one that is about that same size (ie 24v 55uf is OK, 12v 40uf is not). If Fountain is Fountain Valley, CA go to a shop over in Fullerton called Orvac Electronics. Just show one of the guys there what you're looking for and they'll show you where to find it. As a backup try the components board at Frys behind the cheap RC toys.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So do i just de-solder the old ones and re-solder the new ones on? I've never messed with Circuit Boards before. Just old car electronics...
 

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So do i just de-solder the old ones and re-solder the new ones on? I've never messed with Circuit Boards before. Just old car electronics...
yep, pretty much.
You might want to plan on buying a new eec anyway then. IMHO you don't want to learn how to work on electronics with an EEC IV. There ar eplenty of other things in there that you could screw up. Those are electrolytic capacitors so they have a polarity that must match.
 

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So do i just de-solder the old ones and re-solder the new ones on? I've never messed with Circuit Boards before. Just old car electronics...
Electrolytic Capacitors are polarity sensitive. Notice that black band with the "-" (minus symbol)? that's the negative side of the cap, when you replace them, maintain the correct polarity.
Aside from that, just unsolder and resolder, if you have a vacuum style desoldering tool, that will make the job easier and neater.
Don't overheat the board, or the traces will lift from the board.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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All my capacitor searches lead back to this thread, so I'll bump 'er up instead of starting a new one. I opened up my spare TIP1 EEC to check on the presence of a J3 connector and the health of the board. Everything looks good, other than the presence of what looks like one very corroded fella (edit: can't tell if it's a big resistor or axial capacitor) at the bottom mid-left:



full-size pic: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1111559

It sort of looks like it says RS-2B on one side, but that's all I could make out. The Mustang thread linked a couple posts up says, "Both of them are 35v. 2 are 47uF's and 1 is 10uF." Does that sound right? (edit: I only have two obvious SMD-style capacitors @ bottom left and mid/bottom right; if the corroded one is an axial capacitor, then that must be my second 47uF one) I know a circuit boards guy I can take it to to make sure it's done right, but I don't know if he would have the right stuff on hand. I have a few random capacitors left over from the last project I took to him. Ordering the right stuff in advance and having them all freshened up together is probably best.
 

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It's the A9L/etc variant common to some Mustangs and others. Similar but not identical to most of ours.
 
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