[wht89lx]

Have 1992 Ford F150 with auto trans, 4x4 and 5.0l... bone stock...Starts and runs BUT...Runs Sooooo rich that it floods itself out...to date I've swap in a different EEC, replaced ECT, ACT, O2 sensor, PIP sensor, MAP sensor, New Wires, Cap rotor, spark plugs 3 times...Replaced the Fuel pressure Regulator and retested fuel pressure..KOEO 42psi...KOER 44psi

Ohm tested injectors 14.40 - 14.60
Map 157 hz
Compression test lowest cyl 140 highest 150
injector pulse width (cold) [email protected] 1000-1100 rpm's
(cold) [email protected] 800-900 rpm's

with the breakout box checked pins

#6 = 1.12ohm
#16 = 1.00
#20 =.93
#40 = .93
#46 = .99
#49 =.99
#60 =.83

Also checked voltages at specified sensors...all are reading good within normal varience..

Went through the WHOLE truck and cleaned all the grounds I could find...Disabled the fuel system and ran on injector cleaner and it fired once and ran about 1-2 minutes ..then wouldn't fire agin until we pulled plugs and cleaned them....

Is there something that I've missed that would cause this to run so rich???

I'm about to swap out the 8 injectors with 8 that I know are working correctly...

Thanks for any and all input

Dan

 

[Justin's bronco]

What is your vaccumm at idle. If you have a low vacuum due to an engine mechanical problem than the map sensor would add extra fuel. Try unplugging the map if you have a low vaccum and see if it runs. Also, did you check the TPS?

 

[RLKBOB]

What codes are you getting?

I was gonna say FPR, O2 sensor but you already replaced and tested.

 

[92nite]

I had the same problem with my 92'. I had a tech at ford check it out and they said it was a bad ICM (Ignition Control Module) and a bad distributor stator (pick-up coil). Well after a new stator and ICM it ran great, but after 3 days of driving it, it broke down at about 12:30 am in a downpour. Towed it home and it would start but would run way rich-black crap all over the driveway then it would stall off. Next thing I changed was the coil now she's back up and running. Autozone can test the ICM for free. Then check the coil. Maybe this helps hope you get her running...

 

[Gub_Ni]

Coil does make sense. It's one of the few things you haven't replaced.

 

[wht89lx]

KOEO TPS is .969 volts....If I hold the thottle I can get the engine to idle at about 800-900 and I've swapped in a New from Ford IAC.

The engine has idled once the ect temp reaches about 183+ deg...we've reset idle at least twice with the same results...inspected and sprayed the TB with cleaner...Yes the engine is a Speed density motor..MAP volts pin #45 2.532 volts...

The pins listed above are the grounds... we've checked continuiuty to ground and to the EEC pins, repaired one ground wire on pin #46 I believe, wich if I remember right is for the O2 sensor... originally thought we were chasing a false O2 signal..

Were tried numerous attempts at cold idle---with the air tubes from air cleaner housing on and with them removed... the air cleaner has been replaced...

Kinndda baffling situation... as I've yet to get any codes for any thing...unless I unplug sensor while we try to keep it running...then I get a code for the sensor that's been dissconnected...

Supposibly the truck had been sitting for a number of months...

Swapped out the coil and the ignition mod with new from Ford parts.. no change... The EGR port on the intake is temporarily blocked off for now.. I have checked all vacuum lines and tested for vacuum leaks numerous times...Vacuum at 800-900 rpm's is 1bout 17-20 inHG... I even pulled the front cover to inspect the timing gears and chain... all markes line up...



Thanks



Dan

 

[Justin's bronco]

unplug the spout connector and see if it will run with it unplugged. It is a long shot but it might work. Also, Are you 100% sure that the distributor is in the right spot? Most likely this isn't the problem but it would be worth double checking. Also on you map readings, in you last post you put that is was 2.5v is that with the engine running or KOEO same with the 157hz spec that you put at the top. Also, see if you can pull a big vacuum leak (hose to the booster) and get it to run. While monitoring the 02 sensor see if you can get it to switch from rich to lean. If the O2 is always reading lean than the EEC is going to try to richen the mixture.

 

[RLKBOB]

Man at this point I'd probably be replacing the whole wiring harness and/or ECM or selling it.

 

[wht89lx]

Unplugged spout, run... but has a terrible hesitation when ya try to move the throttle---almost seems like it under way to heavy of a load.... Had the Distrubutor out 3 times... once to replace PIP, once to double check it was in the correct location (when we marked location to pull 1st time) and the last timce to double check the gear/roll pin was in place...

MAP was swapped with a New From Ford MAP sensor---I don't have my notes in front of me--- but we tested both MAP sensor they had very similar readings...If I remember right---voltages were within 0.5 volts---we deemed it good-- I'll recheck my Notes-- The MAP reading above were at KOEO---We just haven't been able to get it to idle less than 1000rpm's long enough to test all the sensors we want to test...

The O2 sensor ---when the motor reaches about 183+deg ---climbs from about .7** to about .98+ volts... just a steady increase...It only has one O2 Sensor on the little "H" pipe right off the pipes from the manifold---

I'm seriously thinking of swapping out the injectors with a set I know work correctly---only thing I can figure is that I have at least one partially stuck open or froze open(?)

I have swapped in a different ECM with the same results--- Gone thru the wiring harness twice...

Maybe this would be a good canidate for a Carb !!! LoL

Thanks Again For all the help

Dan

 

[Guest]

Running rich, no codes, many new parts, everything checks out, and seems loaded-up? Perhaps clogged catalytic converters?

 

[wht89lx]

Yep ..covered that base also--- removed cat "y" pipe--- ran a makeshift offroad pipe... and it still runs rich.... we are in the process of pulling the motor to go thru it---has 134K on tha clock, maybe we'll find somthing maybe not, at any rate we'll freshen her up a bit and see what we find

thanks

Dan

 

[kf4amu]

Aside from a vacuum leak I dont know what it could be. I had the same problem with my brand new 460 but not as bad. 5mpg/black smoke/soot coming out of the pipe. Acrid eye watering exhaust. Last tank with crappy plugs I got 8mpg. New plugs this tank I'm sure it will go up more.
Never did figure it out, but I pulled the upper intake just to see if the gasket was leaking, put it back on, cleaned up a couple rigged up vacuum lines, and now its running 1000 percent better.
Unless it was an accident, I'm gonna chalk it up to a vacuum issue. I never did check it, don't have a gauge.
-Will
89 XLT 460

 

[Cactus Smasher]

yep, call me the zombie hunter. im bringing this one back from the dead.

I'm working on the same sort of issue. rich idle. Air-Fuel Ratios in the high 10s-11s. it runs great going down the road, cruises at 15.5 or higher. idles decently, but goes from 12.5-13.5 afr (when pulling up to a stoplight) to right around 11 afr and stays down there. and same thing, I've replaced and/or tested almost everything. no codes relevant to the situation.

I've been reading about the EEC capacitors going bad with age, since they are now 30 or almost 40 years old. but I haven't been able to find an answer as to WHAT the caps control. i was told one of them is fuel.

C'mon boys! dust off the old data banks and fire up the tubes.
(I have a breakout box and the big red shop manuals, they have been good help)