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Discussion Starter #1
EFI Stuff (did the self test)(paging fireguy)

Ok, I can't stand the anemic power output and bullsheeot that goes with the EFI on my truck. I have two options. I can slap the carb manifold that I have for my Falcon on it and be done, but I would rather try to make something good outta the EFI.

So Fireguy (oh mighty god of the EEC):
1. How much excess baggage can I strip off of the thing? Emissions isn't a real big concern to me right now. I am talking bare minimum for performance. I have found a couple broken vacuum lines and stuff and I want to know if it needs to be there at all.
2. Can I get some sort of programmer to use with my laptop so I can adjust for cams and heads and stuff?? I would rather go this route than having someone burn me a chip because I like to experiment often.

I tried to search but I got all sorts of random answers.

Thanks in advance....
 

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Something Spiffy
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dont forget that if you decide to swap to a carb you also need to change out the gas tank, fule pump, remove all electronic control from engine, change destributor ect ect.

as for upgrading, you could get yourself a MAF system from a mustang and ajust the harness to work. mild cams will work, you can get some GT40 heads to wake up that ole motor and then some roller rockers. i dont know im typing outloud and it probably sounds like it too.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Here is my Performance web site: http://fordfuelinjection.com/performance.html
Page 2 is not finished yet, might get to it this week :shrug

As for lap top tuning, you'll need a mustang MAF conversion and a Tweecer. But that brings at least $500 to the table.

The only removal of emisions that will increase power is EGR and coolant hoses. And if you get a larger converter.
You can permently remove all the smog pump and EGR vacuum lines if they are in your way.

I have to ask how many miles are on this 351W?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There are about 15k on the long block and about 165k on the rest. It has a bunch of small intermittant annoyances like a stumble off idle sometimes or a unburnt fuel smell sometimes or rough idle sometimes or once in a great while the check engine light will come on for a fraction of a second and then go back off, etc. I know that I probably have multiple issues, but I want to start by removing as many of the possibilities as I can. I know alot of it isn't exactly legal, but right now I just don't care. Dependability is paramount, followed by performance. I am just sick and tired of it running like crap, and I don't know where to start to fix it.:banghead

sorry for the rant.
 

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Engine light comes on huh? You ever check for trouble codes??????????? You should!

You can remove the smog pump stuff and most emmisions centers won't notice it missing.
EGR can be disabled and still look stock for testers, won't even notice it.
Can't really fix the real problem untill we see what the computer says :shrug
GO HERE: http://fordfuelinjection.com/selftest.html
 

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Fireguy50 said:
The only removal of emisions that will increase power is EGR and coolant hoses. And if you get a larger converter.
You can permently remove all the smog pump and EGR vacuum lines if they are in your way.
Can you elaborate on this some more Ryan? By convertor what are you referring to? I'd like to eliminate any and all stuff that I could as well in my EFI swap.
 
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Ain't the guru, sorry about posting the wrong link to his site! The site is very informative. You can run without the smog pump. Remove it, get a shorter belt, remove hoses, remove the air injectors and plug the heads. The EGR sensor must be left plugged-in or you get a check engine light. You can remove the vacume lines to it. "Converter" must be the thingy on the exhaust. I also removed my cruise control, vacume cans (coffee cans) TAB and TAD. There is no emissions testing here!

I turned off the EGR with my TwEECer. The TwEECer is great, but it would be best to add it after the above mods and after you clear any codes you have. Goodluck!

Thjanks Pepe for catching my "bad".
This thread may help with engine pictures: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8217&highlight=engine+pic
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright here it goes-
I did the self test includin KOER and here's what I got-

KOEO

67 Neutral Pressure switch open
Clutch switch circuit failure
Neutral/drive switch open or A/C on
MLP sensor out of range or A/C on (E4OD)

CM

14 Pip circuit failure
29 Insufficient input from vehicle speed sensor
33 EGR valve opening not detected
95 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure EEC to ground

KOER
21 ECT out of self test range
44 Thermactor air system inoperative right side
33 EGR valve opening not detected


So what do these mean? I realize I will prolly be replacing an ECT, but what is a MLP sensor??? I know I have a faulty neutral safety switch. Is this what that code is refering to? The deal with the fuel pump bothers me too. The truck also died during the KOER so I did it again and had to use throttle to keep 'er runnin.:banghead :mad: :wtf

Ryan-----PLEASE help me with what I should do next. I am a poor college student so I cannot cannot afford the mpg this truck gets like this. I get paid tomorrow so I can sink a little money into it though. :D

Thanks again.
 

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But what does mine say?
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Damn that's a can of worms! Well, removing you emissions crap will get rid of half of those. Take the EGR and thermactor for example.

Yes, the Nuetral safety switch is prolly the cause of 67. If you do a search on it in the Tech write-up section.... Someone showed how they elliminated theirs a few weeks ago.

29 sounds like a bad VSS to me. They're cheap (20 or 30 bucks) so that should be a quick and easy fix. First though, make sure it isn't just hangin there. My dad's explorer had some issues with 4x4, and he took it somewhere to get it fixed. When I climbed under there to work on it later, I saw that they had broken the metal clip that holds it in place. (paper clip solved the problem)

I dunno what to say about 95. Let me research it and get back.

My best suggestion to you is to do a complete tune-up, ie oil/plugs/cap and rotor/ and run a fuel system cleaner through it along with removing the said emissions crap. Then run the test again, and repair one at a time, re running the test after each. Always be sure to reset the computer between each also.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks fireguy. I am going :crazy: here. I got to go to work in an hour or so but I will be back in like 4 hours.

The weird thing is that the chek engine light would only come on for half a second or so prolly once every 2 months.

Weird.

I can build a damn SAS and program computers but EFI is like greek to me.:banghead
 

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But what does mine say?
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14 Pip circuit failure is your bigest problem. Time to replace the TFI and stator togeather.

21 ECT out of self test range is your #2 problem, and is probably responsible for your lack of performance. replacement is cheap

33 EGR valve opening not detected shouldn't effect anything performance wise. But i see several vacuum related things. Check the vaccum lines.

29 Insufficient input from vehicle speed sensor won't cause any imediate issues, if the cruise works, then you have another wiring problem.

67 Neutral Drive switch is nothing to worry about, right now. You might want to check the harness for wire faults. wire #30 needs to be grounded to delete this code.

44 Thermactor air system inoperative really doesn't effect anything. If you plan on removing it, this code will stick around.

95 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure; means Open circuit in or between the fuel pump and FPM circuit at the PCM. Or your inertia switch is wired wrong.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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I have a question about your code 21 ECT out of range on the KOER test

Was the vehicle brout up to operating temp before the test was run? Becouse if not this could triger that code.

At least I think it can.:shrug
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok. I can handle the TFI-ECT-Stator. I will get them today. The one that bothers me still is the 95. On my way down to school the truck acted like it was out of fuel and died when I went over a mountain pass. It wouldn't start for 45 min. Then it just started up no prob. After that it would run for like 15 min and die again. 2 hour trip turned into 6 hour trip. Since that day the truck has never done that again. Sounds like a fuel pump prob to me. Is there a way to tell which fuel pump is causing the problem?
The cruise works, but it has trouble keeping a set speed (think like a drunk is running the gas).
 

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Then the VSS is probably broken if cruse doen't work either.

95 isn't a pump, it's the wiring for the pumps. The computer told the pumps to come on, but didn't sense any voltage to the pumps.
Could be a relay, the inertia switch, wiring, or a ground. Which is actually more work than simply replacing a pump :duh
 
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